I bought a used 1999 C230 Kompressor about 15 months ago, and bought the old line of "The wife just uses it for her long distance commute..." hook line and sinker. I'd found that outside the mandated service checks to maintain the warranty, the previous owner took very poor care of it.

Maintenance I've done (or had done):
I've had all the belts changed, had the brake system (but not the master cylinder) replaced, had the fuel filter changed out. Regular oil changes with full synthetic at the dealerships suggestion (but done by my own mechanic.)

I'm a DIY'er, but haven't found any guides online on how to do maintenance and repair to my car. (And chilton/haynes apparently thinks that if you drive a mercedes, you only do your work at the dealership)

So after the initial rough spots of taking over from the previous owner, getting things cleaned up/out etc... The car has run like a dream. Til this afternoon.

This morning it ran fine. No problems that I could recognize (not that this is a good indicator though)

I come home, car sits in the drive way for about 2 hours, and I hop in to run an errand, and the car at first feels sluggish.

By sluggish I mean that when I push the gas pedal, instead of getting the usual forward response, I get a pause, and more of a creep forward than the usual lurch. about 4 seconds later, it starts to pull forward.

It gets to about 30-35 miles an hour, and feels like it wants to shift to second, but does not. Even with the proverbial pedal to the metal I get little to no response.

First thought was "oh #$@%!, my transmission is going out."

Took the car to a nice straight-away.

Dropped auto-transmission into 1st, accelerated, shifted to 2nd smoothly, accelerated more, and into 3rd.

Figured it wasn't the transmission.

Took it home and popped the hood. Put it in "park" and listened to the engine. I pulled on the accelerator linkage, and the engine seems to rev up and then probably around 1500-1800 rpm (scientific wild assed guess) I'd hear a pop sound. But not a popcorn pop sound. more like a pressure releasing from a soda bottle kind of sound.

Engine seems to rev past it, and then lose power. It starts to rev up again and then lose power.

Any idea what could be causing this, and how to fix it?
Any clues?

Grateful for any help.

Its my only transportation, and I have a 30 mile commute on monday!

Thanks.

-MadManuel

1) go to AUTOZONE if you have one of the stores near you, and have them conect up to your OBD plug and check for any codes. If your AMM-air mass sensor is starting to go it won't throw a check engine light for a while.

2) I didn't see you mention a new air filter, and don't know your mileage to see if new spark plugs might be a worthwhile but long-shot kind of throw parts at the problem to see what happens.

3) haynes does have a non-supercharger euro-UK version manual for your car and Mercedes does have manuals on CD's - but I'm not familiar with these CD's.

4) do a google search on STAR TUNED MAGAZINE & www.mbwholesaleparts.com

Changed the air filter, during the last oil change about 600 miles ago.


Thursday night, before this happend, I'd started driving home from the office, and during the drive, the fuel light came on, and rather than filling up that night, (it was a helluva day) I let it sit in the drive way with very little fuel.

Next morning, I drove straight to the gas station and filled it up.

Point of the story:
My Dad used to say that occasionally, if you have too little gas in the tank, you can get 'silt' in the bottom of the tank sucked up into the fuel system and clog carburators, and fuel injectors.

Is this true?

Could this be an issue

I'm taking it over to autozone right now.

Thanks

From Autozone Code reader Print out:

For codes: P0410, P0170

Code: P0410:
The PCM has determined that a malfunction exists in the secondary air injection system.

Trouble shooting P0410 (domestic)
Definition:
Secondary Air Injection system fault.

Explanation:
The Air injection system is monitored for faults.

Probable Causes:

1. Circuit Relay defective or fuse open.
2. Check Connector and Wiring.
3. Air pump defective, or hoses blocked.


Code: P0170
The PCM has determined that during testing the fuel compensation value for bank 1 exceeded the specified range. (Bank 1 identifies the location of cylinder #1, while Bank 2 identifies the cylinders of the opposite bank)

Trouble Shooting P0170 (Domestic)

Definition:
Fuel Trim Bank 1

Explanation:
The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine. The Computer has recognized a rich or lean condition in one engine bank only.

Probable Causes:

1. If Bank one and two codes are set together suspect fuel pressure or Mass Air Flow sensor.
2. Oxygen sensor defective.
3. Ignition misfire-repair
4. Fuel Injector problem.

Since both MAS codes didn't kick off, I'm tempted to go with the PCM's diagnosis that its not the MAS. I've picked up spark plugs, and MAS sensor cleaner just in case. Added lucas fuel injector cleaner (great stuff) and I'm trying to find guides to show me how to replace the spark plugs.

But you guys know more about this than I, so should I still order the MAS?
(at a gut stomping $300?)

I'l also taking the MAS sensor out, and checking the air intakes for blockages.

any insights?

Thanks.

There is an 80-90% chance the P0170 is a bad air mass sensor, its a common failure point in these cars and your symptoms fit the diagnosis.

The P0410 is almost as common but a bit more complex, searching will reveal lots of info on that code.

__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

I would at this point forget about the spark plugs, and return the injector cleaner - I have 107k miles on my C230 and never needed to use or clean my fuel injectors - though I make an effort to use quality gas from a busy station.

I have however needed a MAS semsor at around 70K-80K miles or so.


Also www.club202.com is a good resource, though not as good as this site

Uh.. Your car only has 1 bank of cylinders (1-4), the 2 bank codes are for V8 or V6 engines that have seperate oxygen sensor monitors for right and left cylinders.

__________________
98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

When I had the P0170 code, I went to NAPA and bought a can of MAF cleaner, around $6 and cleaned the MAF. The next day I went back to Autozone and had them clear the code. So far no problems.

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Genius...

Went back in, and cleaned the entire assembly (that I could get to) Bought the same can of MAF cleaner, and it did run better, but nowhere near where it was.

Got back into town and went straight over to the mechanic's. They showed me some fuel they'd pumped out of the tank... nasty. Think my local chevron has been watering their gas to recoup some high fuel cost losses. That coupled with a bad fuel filter...

Throttle body was filthy as hell, and the 1st, 3rd and 4th cylinders were kicking off poorly. Changed the spark plugs, and that's cleared up.

It's running better, but it again, is nowhere near where it was before 2 weeks ago.

I've ordered the MAF sensor, and as soon as this last bit of bad gas is out of my tank, I'm dumping more lucas and a fresh tank of the best gas I can get my hands on and see if that helps. The MAF sensor is going in as soon as it gets here.

Thanks for the help.