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  #16  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton View Post
The buzzing suspect is K38..it is right below the fuse box on the cluster.

OVP is on the other side of the car on that chassis and OVP is not in the starter lock-out circuit. It is ECU feed on HFM/SFI systems and you can take the OVP right out and the car will still Crank. It just will not Start/Run.. Passenger side, behind battery panel.
K38 is Crank/Starter circuit.

I brightened up all the copper "fingers" using a 3M ScotchBrite, and used DeOxIt Preservative around 10/08.

I could feel the buzzing on the relays behind the fuses, it was NOT K38 buzzing.

Weird.

:-) neil


Last edited by ke6dcj; 07-25-2008 at 12:40 PM.
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2008, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ferdman View Post
Neil, check if the OVP relay is buzzing. Just because it's new doesn't guarantee that it's good. Cold solder joints are known to fail on the OVP relays.
No buzzing, but it's warm/hot to the touch after 10-minutes of use.

:-) neil
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  #18  
Old 08-15-2008, 07:08 AM
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I'm not at the car now, is "fuse #5" located in the regular box in the driver's side or the computer on the passenger side?

Also, what amperage/color is fude #5?
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1994 Mercedes E420 (140,000 miles)
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  #19  
Old 08-22-2008, 12:12 PM
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Can a fuse work intermittenly?

Reading through the posts, I think i have a similar problem with my '95 E320 Sedan. A week ago the car wouldn't start only 15 minutes after shutting it off, the battery was fine, and it did have a buzzing sound. I replaced the starter and discovered it wasn't the starter, but the relay that fits in the fuse box under the hood's hinge on the driver's side. After changing, it started instantly. the next day the car wouldn't start. All the electrical wires are new. Any advice on what to do next would be greatly appreciated.
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  #20  
Old 08-22-2008, 12:15 PM
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Car would not START or would not CRANK ????
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  #21  
Old 08-22-2008, 12:51 PM
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The car would not crank.
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  #22  
Old 08-22-2008, 12:55 PM
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OK

Take out fuse #5 and clean the holder ends and replace the fuse.
Or, next time the condition exist, spin the fuse in it's holder and retry...
also, try N on gearshift gate.
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  #23  
Old 08-22-2008, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arthur Dalton View Post
The buzzing suspect is K38..it is right below the fuse box on the cluster.

OVP is on the other side of the car on that chassis and OVP is not in the starter lock-out circuit. It is ECU feed on HFM/SFI systems and you can take the OVP right out and the car will still Crank. It just will not Start/Run.. Passenger side, behind battery panel.
K38 is Crank/Starter circuit.
BTW: the problem was the silver alarm relay in the dash behind the instrument cluster.

:-) neil
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  #24  
Old 08-22-2008, 03:07 PM
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>


Which is the K38 starter interlock relay.

Did you jump it or replace it???
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  #25  
Old 09-11-2008, 02:43 PM
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"Take out fuse #5 and clean the holder ends and replace the fuse.
Or, next time the condition exist, spin the fuse in it's holder and retry...
also, try N on gearshift gate."

I did this and jumped the K38 module, now when I shut the car off, the starter continues to run. Do you have any suggestions? I was going to get a new K38 but need the exact part# before the dealer can get it.
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  #26  
Old 09-11-2008, 03:36 PM
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You did something wrong.. The feed for starter is just tru the K38...it still needs ign sw feed to activate the starter.

Which pins did you jumper at k38?????????
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  #27  
Old 09-11-2008, 04:39 PM
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bad starter??

I did pins 30&87. Everything ran fine after that. (Thanks for great advice!!

I had a new starter installed before I realized this was the problem. Then about a week later, when you shut the car off, the engine shuts off, but the starter motor continues to run for about 4 minutes, then shuts off. It does this infrequently.

Do you have any suggestions? Could it be a bad starter?

Last edited by MarkJeremi; 09-12-2008 at 11:58 AM.
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  #28  
Old 11-04-2008, 12:47 PM
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It hit me last night, my 94 E420 would not start. I could hear from the inside of the car a buzzing noise. Look under the hood and discover the buzzing noise coming from the combination module relay, located behind the fuses on drivers side firewall. I could not see any problem with any of the fuses due mainly because it was dark. The next morning I reinspected the fuses in daylight and there it was FUSE #5 with a hair line crack. So I replace the fuse, hit the ignition switch and then she fired up with no problem.
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  #29  
Old 11-04-2008, 01:53 PM
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A good idea on that common problem is to replace that fuse with the SS glass.............
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  #30  
Old 11-10-2008, 02:44 PM
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On the side of the road....using my lap top trying to figure out why FUSE "C" keep blowing and car won't start. This is what happen:

Riding down the highway then my setbelt light starts flashing as if a door was open. The front roof light would not turn off. I pull to the side of the road to see if my doors were closed. Shut the car off and then it would not restart. Open the hood look at fuse, notice Fuse C 16A red "rear roof lights, trunk light, central locking system, door lights, reading lamps, aut. antenna" was blown. I replaced it and it blow the second fuse.

Is it a big mistake to jump wire the fuse to start car then remove and finish my road trip back home which is three hours away. The car was running fine before I shut the engine off to check fuse.

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