My A/C stopped working and the EC light is on. When I had this problem previously my local dealer charged the system. This time I thought I would try to charge the system and bought a kit. However, when I connected the can of 134a, the gauge which comes with the kit indicated that my system was already fully charged. Are there some obvious things I can check before taking it to the dealer again? Thanks......Highwater

Don't rely on that gauge to tell you anything. If the compressor is not running, you will simply see the static pressure which tells you nothing about the refrigerant level in the system. Even with the compressor running, you can't rely on that gauge alone even if it were accurate, which it is not.

To start the compressor, you will have to clear the trouble code in the pushbutton unit (searching should find the procedure). You can attempt to charge the system with a gauge set to monitor both high- and low-side pressures. But the only way to be sure of an accurate charge is to evacuate the system and charge it by weight.

Matt, following the procedures layed out in another thread, I ran a diagnostic and recovered the following codes:

Code Value

1 85
2 78
3 9
4 9
5 114
6 148
7 04
8 89
9 27
10 3.2
11 0.9
12 4.1
20 3.2
21 42
22 00
23 32
24 13.5
40 164
41 32
42 72
43 136

Where can I determine what these codes mean? Thanks.....Highwater

Those are the actual values in degrees.

Based on your numbers you should get the codes too.

engine off, key to pos 2, within 30 secs, set left temp to HI and right tomp to LOW, then press and hold REST and EC for 5 secs. If you dont get it done in 30 secs, cycle key off and then on again and pick up where you left off.

Use auto buttons to cycle through codes. Typ codes reads Eb...1234; FF means no more.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

Right, those aren't the trouble codes. I'm betting on the evaporator temperature sensor.

I had the exact same problem. Exact same, down to the 1999 E430. If you're searching previous threads you've prob seen mine.

Unless you are wanting to go ahead and completely solve the problem(ie: find and repair the leak) all you need to do is reset your fault codes. After reseting the codes, the compressor should kick in which will allow you to get a correct pressure reading. Fill her up and you'll be good to go until next summer (in my case.)

Ok I ran the codes. There was only one:

E61 24

Is it the evaporator temperature sensor?

How do I reset codes?

Thanks.......Highwater

I pulled the same code, although I read it as b instead of 6.....

The answer to your questions are in this thread:

W210 Climate control question???

Cliff, I rechecked the codes and you are exactly right. It was E B1 with trouble code of 241. I followed instructions for deleting the code, and the econ light is off. Tomorrow I will try to charge the system since compressor should now be running. I'll let you know results. What is code 241? Thanks.........Highwater

To tell you the truth I never got that far.....

I can tell you that if you wait too long before re-charging the system the econ light will get stuck on again. Just make sure that you check and fill the system with the compressor running.

B1241 is indeed refrigerant fill, but you should not have this code with the static reading of #7 at 4 bar.

I would highly recommend getting a gauge set before attempting to add refrigerant to the system. Yes, I know that they sell kits with just a low-side gauge, but this is completely insufficient for the job.

In the meanwhile, I would reset that code. Turn the key to position 2 and ensure that the EC lamp is on (press the button if necessary) and start the engine. Now enter the current sensor mode (holding REST for >5 seconds) and watch reading #7 when you start the compressor. It should go up and it should not go down. If it goes down, you may have a restriction and you should ensure that the reading is accurate by comparing it to a gauge attached to the high-side service port.

Seeing a warning for refrigerant fill with 4 bar showing at #7 indicates another problem. I would not blindly add refrigerant without ensuring that everything is working correctly. Otherwise, you may go from a $10 fix to one costing thousands.

Matt, I checked the reading of #7 as you described. It was 04 before I started engine and stayed at 04 when compressor kicked on. Since it did not go down I went ahead and charged the system with 134a. I monitored #7 as I charged the system. It went from 04 to 16. I don't think the system is fully charged but I only had the 1 can of 134a. What should the normal reading be for #7 when fully charged?

thanks.........Highwater

It only holds 2.1(?) lbs total. Spec's on the computer box lid.

The real question is where did the old stuff go, or was it just hiding from the sensor?

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

The high-side pressure reading depends on how hard the system is working. There is not a single "right" pressure.

Note that on my car, the refrigerant really was hiding from the sensor. It was hiding in the condenser and high-side lines. I saw 3 on the #7 reading on the pushbutton unit, but 350 psi at the port. Not that this is necessarily your problem (because it probably isn't), but it is important to check.