1997 E320, about 175K miles.

About a year ago I began feeling just a touch of play in the steering, typically when wheel is turned far off center (like on tight U-turns). Resembled the feeling of a worn ball joint or tie rod, but not very severe. The car was due for tires, so I left it alone.

I put new Michelins on a couple weeks ago and decided to inspect the front end and correct the problem. Ball joints and outer tie rods were tight on both sides, but on the driver's side I detected a bit of play which appeared to be coming from the inner tie rod end. So I picked up the part and got under there. After removing the boot, I noticed the tie rod ball joint was perfectly tight with absolutely no play in it. However, with my wife wiggling the steering wheel ever so slightly, I could still hear a tiny bit of play. I put my hand on the tie rod ball joint and could feel the play, but it's not in the tie rod end, so I'm guessing it could be coming from the rack itself. The play seems to be most noticeable when the rack is at its extreme left or right limits. I did not remove the boot to inspect the inner tie rod on the other side, but when I put my hand on that side I am not noticing the play as much. I don't think the tie rod on the other end is worn.

Also, the old tires wore perfectly evenly, and there does not appear to be any play at the wheels.

Question for the experts: Does this sound like a worn rack? If so, how long before I'll be forced to replace it? There are no problems with the steering, just the occasional "play" that I will feel on very sharp turns.

The local parts supply has a reman rack for $450 with exchange. Will I need to drop the subframe, or is this a simple unbolt and replace job?

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08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I have been experiencing something similar with my w202. I have not done as much investigating as you but was wondering if it could be due to the notorious lower control arm bushings just getting old and compressed. I will be interested to here what you find to solve the problem.

The 202 doesn't have a rack, it's the old "recirculating ball" and I believe the 210 - same generation - is the same way. You have a steering box, center link with tie rod ends attached, and then the lower control arm bushings and idler arm can also cause play. The box can be adjusted (very carefully!), but you are probably looking at the center link being worn if the tie rod ends look fine. You also just got new tires; when was your last alignment? Do one every 10k and save your tires

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former: 83 300D, 97 C230, 93 400E

current: 08 C300 Luxury , 92 500SL

I've read in WIS concerning testing the W210 rack that if the wheel is turned more than 1 degree and the tires havnt yet moved that the rack is bad. Cant find that doc right now but fairly certain I'm remembering correctly.

One degree is a very tiny amount of movement and subjective. I dont think mine passed that test.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

I assure you the W210 has a rack. At least mine does - I was looking right at it. Mine is a 97, and I don't think the first year (96) was all that different.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

If that's the case, mine would probably fail. I'm not in a hurry to replace it just yet; I'll monitor to see if it gets worse. When the time comes, it's good to know a reman is only $450.

By the way, what is parameter steering? The parts guy (and FastLane too) listed 2 racks, one for a car with parameter steering and one without.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

Finally jacked the car up a couple weeks ago and got down to serious investigation. Popped the boots off both inner tie rod ends and found they were very tight, no play at all. Outer tie rods are also tight. No play apparent at ball joints. With steering centered and my wife applying light pressure to steering wheel, there is no play. However, when the wheel is turned far off center either right or left, when she wiggles the wheel lightly back and forth the clunking is very evident. It definitely appears to be coming from the rack. Looking at the post above, I don't think there is 1 degree of play, however just knowing there is play at all does bug me (I like everything to be perfect). So although it doesn't need it now, I do think I'll add "replace steering rack" to my rainy-day projects list.

Anybody ever do this? Is it pretty straightforward?

Also, any input with regard to "parameter steering" as requested above?

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

The 210 chassis was the first MB to use rack & pinion.

I'm not sure you have a problem here. I have read many a time that the rack is quite intentionally machined with less play in the on center position, and more play away from center. Low play on center is necessary for good tracking straight down the road. I'm less sure why more play is used away from center, but guess that it is for reduced friction so that the caster can overcome steering friction to provide good self centering of the steering.

My guess is that if you replace the rack, you won't be able to tell the difference. At the very least, I'd suggest you perform the same investigation on another 210 before investing the time and money.

I'm a bit fuzzy on parameter steering. I believe it is speed sensitive variable steering assist. It was an individualy option in Europe. I think it was standard on US cars. You should be able to determine whether your car has it by checking the build sheet at the back of the maintenance booklet and/or by finding the option code (Google is your friend here) and checking the build plate on the radiator crossmember.

- JimY

Thanks for the input Jim, I tend to agree with you somewhat. I replaced the tires recently; they had about 50,000 miles on them, and despite the slight clunking, the tires were worn evenly with no feathering or other irregularities (the clunking had been there at least a year or so and maybe 15,000 miles before I got the car from the previous owner). The alignment is obviously very tight, so I believe the play is likely between the pinion gear and the rack itself. I guess it just bugs me that the play is occasionally "noticeable." Had there been no occasional clunk I wouldn't be worried.

Interestingly, before I bought the car I had the PO take the car to the dealer for some other issue, and I recall them quoting him a price for ball joint replacement which they diagnosed as causing the slight clunk. But they were obviously WAY off. The ball joints are fine.

I only notice the clunk every once in a while, but when it occurs it almost feels like play in the tie rods. There are no handling issues and no binding or resistance. New Michelins are wearing evenly, too. You're right - I should probably just not worry about it.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

If it's clunking, then something isn't quite right. I'm not clearly understanding your problem, however. Is it not driving correctly, or is it entirely a noise complaint?

The lower control arm bushings on the 210 have proven to have a limited lifetime. As I recall, that manifests as highway speed vibration. In my experience on other chassis, as the rubber ages and hardens it transmits more noise and impact harshness into the car. Doesn't sound like your problem.

Have you investigated how the rack is mounted to the chassis? Is it rubber isolated? Is there a rubber coupling between the steering column and the pinion input, similar to the old recirculating boxes? Trying to think of what might get loose in the steering system... I'm not thinking of anything new that clunks.

- JimY

It drives correctly, it just occasionally exhibits a "sound" of play. You can hear and somewhat feel it but can not detect any actual play or slop in the steering linkage.

I don't think it's a rack mounting issue, like I said I believe it is actually worn tolerance in the rack itself. If I crawl under the car with the wheels slightly touching the ground, then have my wife wiggle the steering wheel a miniscule amount (maybe one degree) I can hear the play when the steering is way off center; it's mostly noticeable at the extreme left or right turning positions. I observe no play in any of the tie rods or ball joints and the rack itself isn't actually moving, however if I put my hand on the rack I can feel the play faintly.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280

I don't know whether the rack should feel loose or not. I would expect the rack to exhibit the most wear in the center, and the least at full left or right lock. Yet it is tight in the center and loose at the extremes. This makes me suspect that it is designed to be that way. As I stated before, I would compare to a lower mileage 210 before changing the steering rack.

I can volunteer my 60K mile 2001 wagon for comparison duty. I'm rather booked up until the end of November. If you're interested, why don't we take it to PM. Oh, any you have to promise not to snicker at the condition of my car - it's no great prize.

- JimY

Haha, sounds good, Jim. I appreciate the offer - I may PM you at some point in December if this continues to bug me. Meanwhile, I'll continue to drive and monitor it. I'm getting ready to paint my Miata this weekend, if my HVLP gun arrives in time. With the Miata down for a week or two, I'll be driving the W210 to work each day. That should give me plenty of opportunity to examine the issue further.

__________________
08 W251 R350
97 W210 E320
91 W124 300E
86 W126 560SEL
85 W126 380SE Silver
85 W126 380SE Cranberry
79 W123 250
78 W123 280E
75 W114 280