New quick w124 Catalytic Converter help pls!! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mpolli · #16 07-30-2008, 12:47 AM

In California I thought all cars had to be made from soy.

Bigpete123 · #17 07-31-2008, 01:41 PM

Well things did not work out well for me.

First off, the cat that they sent me either was the wrong cat altogether, or the website I bought it from (the parts bin) has errors in its catalogue. The cat was about 6" too long and the bends in the pipes were all wrong.

It actually looked like it was well made though. The shop suspected that they may have sent me a sedan cat, and maybe for the wrong engine.

Here's the rub. I took the car to a trusted (non-muffler) shop to have the work done. I was told this cat was a bolt-on unit... direct replacement. So they pulled the old cat out (had to do some cutting) and didn't realize I had the wrong part until they put them side-by-side.

They were not equipped to weld in a universal cat for me. The car was not driveable. So I spent $200 on labor at the first shop, and spent $120 having the car toed to the closest muffler shop.

They told me I was better off doing what you all recommended... having a universal magnaflow unit welded in... and that I should go and get my money back from the people I bought the Catco unit from.

So I'm trying to do that now. This ended up being a very expensive mistake for me.

The magnaflow unit seems to have worked out great. It didn't solve my rough idle or hesitation issues though (dammit). I'm taking it in for emissions testing today.

mespe · #18 08-21-2009, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigpete123

Well things did not work out well for me.

First off, the cat that they sent me either was the wrong cat altogether, or the website I bought it from (the parts bin) has errors in its catalogue. The cat was about 6" too long and the bends in the pipes were all wrong.

It actually looked like it was well made though. The shop suspected that they may have sent me a sedan cat, and maybe for the wrong engine.

Here's the rub. I took the car to a trusted (non-muffler) shop to have the work done. I was told this cat was a bolt-on unit... direct replacement. So they pulled the old cat out (had to do some cutting) and didn't realize I had the wrong part until they put them side-by-side.

They were not equipped to weld in a universal cat for me. The car was not driveable. So I spent $200 on labor at the first shop, and spent $120 having the car toed to the closest muffler shop.

They told me I was better off doing what you all recommended... having a universal magnaflow unit welded in... and that I should go and get my money back from the people I bought the Catco unit from.

So I'm trying to do that now. This ended up being a very expensive mistake for me.

The magnaflow unit seems to have worked out great. It didn't solve my rough idle or hesitation issues though (dammit). I'm taking it in for emissions testing today.

You mean they actually tried to fix your car without all the proper tool to complete the job? You need to ask for a refund for both the towing and thier labor. Driving a car into a shop and having to tow it out defies all logic.

anziani · #19 08-21-2009, 05:43 PM

Sounds to me like you need a good MB shop. Go to MB Shops in this forum and search Washington. Has to be someone. I sold my '91 190E to my grandaughter and she ultimately needed a new cat to pass CA smog. A local indie handled everything including the smog test and it was about $600 (which grampa paid)
I always let my mechanic handle the smog tests. They always pass. Sounds like you have other problems that a good indie could have diagnosed in the first place.
Anziani
'93 300CE 174K
'95 E420 117K

EricSilver · #20 08-21-2009, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mr300ce

Here's a secret "they" don't want you to know about testing the mechanical part of the EGR system. ....

1. Locate it on the engine

2. disconnect the vacuum line on it

3. attach one of your own

4. with your mouth, suck on vacuum line firmly. A good valve's diaphram will hold vacuum. If air keeps coming in, (like a straw) then the valve is bad. = replace valve

5. if valve seems good, start engine and let idle. Apply vacuum again. Engine RPM should drop because you are allowing exhaust gas into the fuel mixture at the wrong time.

This system is working properly. Do it several times to learn how it effects idle, and to feel good that you did it yourself.

6. if engine RPM does not drop , then the tubing and/or ports are likely plugged with gunky egr goo, and won't allow flow.

Is this, by chance, the test emissions stations use?

I throw a code 5 frequently, which I assume is a clogged pipe, but the EGR test passes without problems.

EricSilver · #21 08-21-2009, 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigpete123

They tested it by doing a "heat test". They said a typical cat gets hot in the rear when its running. But they are saying mine is "ice cold" near the back indicating that it's not burning up the fumes like it should.

This would depend on whether the cat was brought up to proper temperature in the first place.

With my current car, and the previous one, every emissions station said that 90% of the W124s they test always fail the first time because the cat is not hot enough. What they do to warm it up is rev the engine at about 2500-3000 rpm until they smell strong fumes. Then they retest, and the car passes.

This has been the procedure (at least with my cars) with every emissions test for the past 10 years, both in NY and VA.