Have a 94 E320 with remote starter. When I try to start with key, panel lights come on, but no solenoid click, no crank. Same thing when trying to start with remote button. # 5 fuse replaced and OK. Battery fully charged and battery terminals clean and tight. Neutral safety switch is OK. Where do I start looking?

Did you try N ?

If YES , then is the ARM led ON at the console?

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A Dalton

Did you try N ? Do you mean starting in neutral? Tried. Does not work.

If YES , then is the ARM led ON at the console? Do not know what you mean by ARM led at consol.

I have searched your other postings on this subject. I have jumped the + wire at the X27 plug in the inner firewall and she does crank.

I have also changed the 11, 12 and B fuses.

I have to go to work now...but my next step is to check the relay by the gas pedal inside the car(K38?)

>

Very good...I see you did your Homework by using the Archieves...I Salute you ..

OK , if you have crank from battery jumper to center terminal of X27 , then the next feed back in that power chain is K38. If you jumper that and it starts , that is the problem...next back from there is NSS . How do you know you have a good NSS ?

PS ..the reason I ask about the ARM led is b/c that is the Security System and if that is ON , you are armed and K38 will not allow start...That feed should be OFF and car unlocked ..Thta is what fuse #5 is for ...make sure that fuse is good ..they will fool you by just looking ..a test lamp on each side of the fuse will verify OK. K38 relay is most likely suspect at the moment.

OK Arthur...I jumped the V/GRN and V/W(in my case V coming to plug and V/W leaving) at the 4 prong-X49/2 plug next to gas pedal and she started. Is that good or bad? What next? Thank you VERY MUCH for your help.

OK
That is either NSS or K38..I will have to pull your schematic up a little latter to confirm..

... double check that fuse 5..both sides w/test lamp..they will fool you .

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A Dalton

V/gr jumper to v/wt is NSS by-pass.
I do not know what you mean by V coming and v/wt going.

The plug ID # should be #3 for v/gn and #4 for v/wt.

If YES, that is NSS.

K38 is V and V/gn, but V comes from Ign sw.

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A Dalton

I will crawl in there and pull apart again later to double check and trace wires. On that 4 wire plug, the male side of the plug had a solid V wire coming in and on the female side it had I think two V/WT wires from that pin. I assumed the solid V wire was coming from engine compartment...but never really checked. I should get back to it tomorrow afternoon. Thank you.

That V is just feed for the ECU .
Your problem will be NSS if it starts when you jumper v/wt and v/gn.

A trick for ailing NSS is to hold the key over to Start position w/left hand as you move the shifter back/forth around the N position. Sometimes a bad one will catch in N , but not in P b/c in P you are up against the gate stop and don't have that wiggle room....ya know???

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A Dalton

remove the cover behind the fuse box...its six phillips screws with
two located in the front inside the fuse box.
you'll see some relays when you remove the cover.
There's a blue 15 amp relay. Check the fuse.
I had to do a roadside for a customer with a 95 E320.
That was the culprit along with a blown #5 fuse.
Hope this helps!

The culprit was the # 5 fuse , not the 15A blue relay fuse. The 15A fuse on the blue relay has nothing to do with a Crank conditon b/c that is simply the Low Fan relay.
Whereas fuse 5 is K38 starter interlock feed.
You happened to spot a blown fuse on the low aux fan relay b/c they all blow at 15A, which is why they have been changed to a 25 A. But it certainly is not in the Start circuit in any way........if you have a complaint of no aux. low fan for a/c operation, then you go to that fuse/relay compartment and check the blu relay/fuse..that is Low Aux Fan relay. And the green one right next to it with the 30A fuse is the High Aux. Fan relay.

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A Dalton

I kinda figured lol.

Yeah...that one was probably blown for ages and they didn't even notice no low fan...but you did good with that fuse #5..that is key on any of those Benz chassis that have ATA security systems with the K38 relay
Good info to know ...I have seen guys spend Hundreds $$$$ changing NSS, Starter, Ign sw, etc ..just to finally find fuse 5 making a poor connection.
Take that fuse 5 out and you are going nowhere.......fast..

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A Dalton

Just for the heck of it I replaced the neutral safety switch with a cheap one for $12. That was the problem. I had replaced it 2 years ago with an original Mercedes switch. I would have thought it would last longer. I hope this cheapo lasts a while. I'm getting too old to be crawling around under there like a bug. Thank you Arthur and all others for your help

The problem w/NSS is the location..they get road debries and water/moisture b/c of where they are ...

I have drilled a hole in them , squirt some WD40 in there to displace the moisture and capped the hole with some silicone and had them run fine for a couple more years.

Up in NE we used to have problems with them in the winter b/c the moisture would freeze.......just like the door locks........

Glad the diagnosis was correct ....

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A Dalton