Hi all am still working on that 1989 190E 2.6L, my wife is having problems starting the car in the mornings will take 4 or 5 tries to get it to go, replaced plugs, plug wires but still problems where is the OVP and how do I test to see if that is the problem thanks guys!

The OVP relay is behind a plastic cover behind the battery. It will have either 1 or 2 fuses on top. Check the fuse/fuses first.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

I am not familiar with that car but in the old days there used to be things such as cold start valves and sensors/thermo switches to activate them. Make sure those are all working. Would help if you have a schematic probably.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

okay so OVP could definately be the culprit of the cold start problem? anything else anyone can think of other than thermos? and where are the fuses for the ovp? unfortunately don't have any schemaitcs, anyone have a link to one? Thanks again guys, sincerly thank you

Like I stated in post #2....check fuse/fuses on top of OVP relay.

Also, use the search feature on the forum and you will find lots of similar problems.

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1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Fuel accumulator.

how does one tell if its the fuel accumulator or OVP? it seems to start fine sometimes and others it does not. I have OVP coming tommorow in the mail should I just go ahead and order the fuel accumulator as well?

You probably aren't going to like this advice very much and it will not offer instant help. I perceive that you are just throwing parts at your problem hoping to stumble on the solution. That will cost you a fortune and when you do fix the car by part substitution, you will not know what you have done.

My advice: Slow down and try to isolate your fault first. If you don't have a repair manual, get one. They are available on a CD and in your case I believe in book form also. A manual will save it's own cost the first time you use it.

I told you that you would not like my advice but if you take it you will someday thank me.

We're all in this together Pal. Good Hunting!

I have been trying to isolate the problem, I thought it was the fuel accumulator at first after doing forum searches but it shares a lot of things in common symptoms with the OVP: however, when you finally get the car running you don't need to push the throttle down like on a fuel accumulator problem. So therefore it lead me to belive its an OVP thing.

Is the accumulator the thing that maintains pressure after shut down? If so then I think you would test for pressure leak down. Basically let the car sit overnight and then check for fuel pressure. But I am not sure. I learned about FI systems on my old L-Jetronic Toyota and it didn't have a fuel accumulator AFAIK.

So what percentage of the time is it hard to start and how long does it take to start those times? Put in the OVP first and see what happens.

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra

mpolli from what I have read in the forum searches the fuel accumulator helps to smooth out pulses caused by the fuel pumps, I think there is a separate system for maintain the fuel pressure after shut off (a oneway check vavle I think) yeah that is what I am going to do is put in the OVP but my wife just called and told me that she had to rev her engine a few time this morning after she started it so boooooo I think I ordered the wrong part.