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  #1  
Old 09-05-2001, 03:04 PM
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Power Brake bleeder

I have seen mention of a brake bleeding device that uses pressure on the fluid reservoir. They only require one person to perform bleeding operation. Does anyone know where these can be purchased?
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1982 240D
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  #2  
Old 09-05-2001, 03:49 PM
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http://www.epsparts.com/tools/speedibleed

or

Search this site for instructions to build one yourself if you are so inclined. I believe Donald Swinford has a WEB page that describes how to do this. Larry Bible made reference to it in a reply to a thread 2-3 days ago.
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  #3  
Old 09-05-2001, 03:56 PM
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I have used the pressure brake bleeding system at the fleet level and although they do work, they can be difficult to connect, a real mess if you do not get an air tight (brake fluid tight) fit, and they use a lot of brake fluid. I prefer to use a vacuum tool called the Mityvac Vacuum Test Kit that can be used by one person. Instead of connecting to the master cylinder, the connection is at the individual wheel's bleeder valve and the Mityvac vacuums the brake fluid through the master cylinder to that wheel's brakes (drum or disc). The Mityvac eliminates all air in the brake system (master cylinder, wheel cylinder, caliper, lines, etc.) and does a real good job. Also, the Mityvac can be used to check your other vacuum lines/valves for leaks/operation, pressure testing, engine diagnostic tests, etc. Plus, it is a lot cheaper than a pressure brake bleeding system and much more versatile. MercedesShop may sell them, if not then Performance Products sells them for $62.95 plus S&H. You may also want to check your local parts suppliers for availability (I recall buying mine from NAPA). Get the delux kit because it has all the fittings/connectors to take full advantage of the Mityvac's potential. If you buy the Mityvac I suggest you put a bit of grease on the pivot points on the pump to ease operation and avoid excessive wear to the pump.

Tom
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  #4  
Old 09-05-2001, 03:58 PM
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Correction - case sensitivity doesn't help. Try this site to see a photo of the gadget.

http://www.epsparts.com/Tools/speedibleed/
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  #5  
Old 09-06-2001, 08:00 AM
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Try www.speedbleeder.com, costs $7 each

Pat
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  #6  
Old 09-06-2001, 08:07 AM
LarryBible
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Tom makes a good point, there is a down side to them, they can be messy, and you waste brake fluid. If you have a steady supply of willing helpers, I prefer the two person method.

I use one because I live in the boondocks, no one is usually around when I need them, or I have to wait for the helper to take a shower, dry her hair and get dressed or some other lengthy delay.

Have a great day,
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  #7  
Old 09-06-2001, 08:48 AM
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i used a one man setup before where there was a special container that you inverted over the reservoir to keep a steady supply. it was very simple - a bottle with a tube at the end going through a clear plastic plate. when you inverted it into the reservoir, atmospheric pressure kept the balance and it would fill automatically if the reservoir level went down. there was also some special arrangement with the collection tube and bottle so that no air would be introduced. you pumped the brake until the new fluid showed in the outlet tube. i think they have a kit like that at napa stores...
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  #8  
Old 09-06-2001, 11:11 AM
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pat201:

Have you used the speedbleeder? I looked at their Website.

It seems you need to buy four for each car, right? Once they are on, they should not be removed. Is that right?

Thanks.

Bo
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  #9  
Old 09-06-2001, 03:44 PM
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I should have discussed this in my first reply. You should replace all the brake fluid in your brake system once a year (as MB recommends). Brake fluid needs complete replacing because brake fluid absorbs moisture from the atmosphere and then becomes contaminated (recall the warning on brake fluid containers about not using fluid from a previously opened container? water absorbtion from the atmosphere is the reason and why brake fluid goes from a near clear fluid to nearly opaque over time). Water contaminated brake fluid will cause rust/corrosion in the brake system leading to premature failure - very expensive to replace those brake components. Or, the chance that vapor lock will occur because of the moisture contamination.

I suggested the Mityvac vacuum pump so you could not only bleed your brake system now, but also every year as part of a preventive maintenance program. And, the possible future need to do other diagnostic tests on other components using the Mityvac.

By far, the cause for the vast majority of brake system failures due to rust/corrosion are vehicles where the brake fluid is not changed on a regular basis.

Try to change the fluid when the relative humidity is low (as MB recommends). When you have to replace brake fluid for repairs and the relative humidity is high, then I suggest doing a complete brake fluid replacement as soon as the relative humidity is low ( or as soon as your schedule allows when the RH is low).

My 1977 300D has never had any brake component fail (other than disc pads) probably because I replace the brake fluid every year when the humidity is low (same results for other vehicles I've owned, or responsible for as a professional mechanic/technician if I was in charge of maintenance from when the vehicle was new or nearly new).

I have not used the new synthetic brake fluids that are on the market, yet. I had a supply of Pentosin Super Dot 4 brake fluid that is now nearly gone. I plan on trying one of the new synthetic brake fluids very soon since it has been nearly a year ago that I last changed it and Texas weather soon will have much lower RH levels (Valovoline synthetic brake fluid since I use Valvoline oils in all places needing oil). The synthetic brake fluids are supposed to be much more resistant to absorbing moisture and compatible with existing non-synthetic brake fluids. However, I understand that synthetic brake fluid does need to be changed regularly - but not as often as non-synthetic brake fluid (every 2 years? perhaps longer?).

Anyone have any experience with synthetic brake fluid?

Tom
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  #10  
Old 09-06-2001, 04:54 PM
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Thanks all,

I'm like Larry B, if my daughter sees me with a bottle of brake fluid she runs the other way.

The mityvac sounds more useful. Brake fluid is cheap and I'm already used to the mess. And odor. A way to keep the fluid cup full would really make it a quick job.
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  #11  
Old 09-06-2001, 07:28 PM
Stevegman
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I use Eeze-Bleed, it's great.

I will forward the address when I can.

Steve G
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  #12  
Old 09-06-2001, 08:50 PM
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Loubapache:

Yes, I replaced all original bleeders with Speed Bleeders. It took about 1 hour to empty the brake fluid, unscrew the bleeders and screw in the new ones. Then it took only 10 minutes to bleed all brakes for the new fluid.

I don't see why they can not be removed later if you choose to do so, or to put back the original bleeders.

Pat201
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  #13  
Old 09-06-2001, 10:01 PM
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Not Rocket Science...

Here's the link to Don Swinford's website that Alon created for him:

http://home.earthlink.net/~asherson/Don/The_Brake_Bleeder/the_brake_bleeder.html

This system is quite similar to ones I have seen being used by boat shops to purge and replace the oil on outboards and sterndrives. You fill it up with oil (or brake fluid in this case), attach it, pressurize it, and depress the release on the wand until the new fluid comes out.
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Last edited by longston; 09-09-2001 at 03:19 AM.
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  #14  
Old 09-07-2001, 08:55 AM
LarryBible
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Where can you buy the speed bleeders for MB's? I have seen them for my Vette in the Corvette merchants catalogs.

These are a great and simple idea. They should have started installing them as standard equipment about 60 years ago when hydraulic brakes became popular.

Have a great day,
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  #15  
Old 09-07-2001, 04:26 PM
roas
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Do these bleeders work correctly on cars with ASR and ABS? I thought you need to use pressure at the master cylinder (push)rather that vacuum at the caliper (pull)?
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