Have you had a timing chain break!? - Page 8 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

#**106** 02-02-2002, 06:21 PM

Yup, my timing chain broke on my 1991 300SE along with my head gasket and I needed a new air pump also. They fixed it, but I've had my car back for two days now and its now starting to overheat again. IM PISSED THAT I PAYED $1800.00 TO GET MY CAR FIXED AND ITS NOT FIXED!!!

#**107** 02-02-2002, 06:35 PM

Yup, my timing chain broke on my 1991 300SE along with my head gasket and I needed a new air pump also. They fixed it, but I've had my car back for two days now and its now starting to overheat again. IM PISSED THAT I PAYED $1800.00 TO GET MY CAR FIXED AND ITS NOT FIXED!!!

#**108** 02-03-2002, 02:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Southern_Son
psfred, I am curious.....how does the M/B dealership roll in a new chain if it is 'endless'?

There is nothing wrong with a replacement chain that is of quality build. (read 'made in Germany')

For those contemplating this job, the official service manual from M/B on the V-8 engine, M116.96 (3.8) and M117.96 (5.0), states on page 05.7-320/1 F3, "A repair chain with connecting link is available for repairs. If only and endless timing chain is available, the chain can be opened prior to installation by grinding off both pins of a link and subsequent installation by means of a connecting link."

As I said, just get a good quality chain and you should be just fine. No need to get endless and fool with crimping.

What is the life expectancy of the timing chain for the M117.96 5.0 engine. I am asking as I recently purchased a 1985 500SEL with 152,000 miles on it when I bought it. Not sure about when the last time the chain was either checked or replaced. Not very keen on spending $4,000 on repairs after a break. The car now has 168,000, runs great. No service records with vehicle though after 60,000 mile checkup.

Douglas C

psfred · #**109** 02-03-2002, 03:15 PM

The chains on the 500/560 aren't much of a problem, as they are the double type. The single roller type on the 420/380 is the one that goes fast.

My mechanic recommends checking the stretch every 30,000 miles, with replacement when stretch is 8 degrees at the crank.

I would check yours sometime soon, just in case. If the oil have been changed frequently, and the PO used good oil, you shouldn't have a problem. Get a new chain rolled in if there is significant stretch. Cheap insurance!

Peter

#**110** 02-03-2002, 04:41 PM

FWIW, I saw a friend lunch a '90 190E/2.6 recently, but she is not convinced of an engine's need for oil. The timing chain broke at about 50-60 mph, while the engine had sufficient clean oil. However, I know she had let it run very low more than once, so it might be difficult to claim this was anything but the result of abuse in one of the more durable MB engines.

whunter · #**111** 06-24-2009, 06:17 PM

"Terry", timing chains do NOT last forever, regardless of Ebay adds or opinions.

Some additional data.

Diesel Timing Chain Link Thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/162071-diesel-timing-chain-thread.html#post1251434

Strife · #**112** 06-24-2009, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

You MUST crimp any replacement chain! Don't use a clip master link type chain. The clip master link is only good for temporary use while rolling in the new chain. DON'T USE THE CLIP MASTERLINK FOR THE CHAIN TO BE RUN!!!!!!!

I believe that just because a chain is "made in Germany" does not mean that it is necessarily a high quality chain. It's certainly a good indication. I am curious if there are any first hand experiences with breakage of ANY aftermarket, single row chain.

Have a great day,

This may be true for some engines (diesels), but why is this the recommended procedure in the M116 and M117 shop manuals?

jwhughes3 · #**113** 06-25-2009, 02:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Southern_Son

tcane, that resume is very impressive. I wonder how the education of the german engineers that wrote the service manual that states the use of a master link is permissable would stack up to your education?

And very undefensible by tcane - he was simply providing exactly what you asked for - an opinion of his experience. (of which he has WAY more than I) I suspect it wasn't intended to sound mean, but humor and sarcasm are difficult to convey in print.

I have no doubt the engineers that wrote the manual said it was permissible to use a clip link - it has been used in manufacture for awhile, but it doesn't mean that it is the PREFERRED method of R/R.

I think tcane saying it was the way HE would (and did) do it is what he offered.

I think each of us can make up our mind how we want the repair done on our own vehicles. I for one would take the extra step necessary for an endless chain because I feel it would give me peace of mind and if it still failed then it was probably due to an error in my installation rather than a defect (which may be the case using a clip, but THEN I would blame the clip).

John in San Antonio
(praying his TC doesn't break anytime , well, ever)
AND who didn't realize he was replying to an 8 year old thread - thanks whunter for tricking me!

whunter · #**114** 06-25-2009, 01:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Strife

This may be true for some engines (diesels), but why is this the recommended procedure in the M116 and M117 shop manuals?

The harmonic/vibration, stress, and load on a diesel timing chain is far higher than a gasoline engine.

MB put out a service bulletin on this issue.

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