Never been a big fan of the silver-sleaze. BUT hey I don't think it would hurt either. Very unusual that they would seize if properly torqued, and if it were me "guaranteeing" something, if properly torqued I'd bet they will still come out even a few years later, barring any really unusual set of circumstances. I wouldn't think twice about it. Still, Todd is the one left with the end result, not us.
I agree with jlomons approach, that has worked for me in the past also, although the bolt heads look like garbage, what a relief to just get the wheel off! I used an air hammer on the top of the head, a few short bursts and that usually gets them off.
Instead of antiseize you can also just put some bearing grease on the threads, accomplishes the same thing, but you CAN get the grease off your fingers, instead of looking like you have "The Tin Mans" hands for a day or two.
Gilly

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In my experience, this is the best way to go. It's my first choice when we run into stuck lug bolts in my shop. My second choice would be to use some heat, but my method only works on the front. Usually, the backing plate can be gently bent out of the way to expose the ends of the lug bolts. With a small torch and some patience, the most stubborn bolts can be removed. I've done it many times without causing any "collateral damage". Anybody who says' "just drill them out" probably han't done it before. It's time consuming, and the risk of damaging the wheel is high.

The FSM says in no uncertain words to not put any lubricant at all on the ball surface of the bolt or the ball seat of the rim. It does not mention the threads. If MB intended to prohibit it there as well, I would think that they would say it.

Eh, like I said, I don't like the stuff. I've seem plenty come in all goobered with antisleaze, no problems noted, other than silver poop all over my hands.

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I agree with this - as long as you take em off and put em back on (torqued properly) a few times a year, I can't see how they could get stuck. If you do any maintenance, this should just happen as the course of maintenance - for example, in changing the brake fluid/inspecting the brakes.

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This jibes with some torque testing we did on wheel stud product. We were studying how antiseize affects clamp loads when torquing under different conditions. Our findings showed that antiseize on the threads was not a big deal, but once it's slathered on the seating surface, the studs would break using the prescribed torque.

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