Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-20-2008, 01:40 PM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Need Help With Window Regulator Repair

The Car...1988 300SEL (W126 Chassis)

I'm trying to replace the front passenger window regulator. I have had the regulator in and out three or four times. Every time I try raise the window with new regulator installed it keeps binding up after a couple of inches of movement and stops moving. After so more poking around I found the part pictured wedged in at the top of the window, not really connected to anything. Can someone tell me what this part is and how it gets installed...

Attached Thumbnails
Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_20_08-063.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_20_08-064.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_20_08-065.jpg  
__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-20-2008, 04:57 PM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by 84500SEL View Post
got cant really tell? does it look like a brush for a motor or something?
its hard to zoom in any closer . looks like its connected by a copper wire correct?
The plastic part is the same size and shape as the plastic slider on the window regulator, so I can guess that it goes into the metal part at the bottom of the window, where the rest of it goes I don't know?
__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-20-2008, 05:01 PM
johnathan1's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Downey, SoCal
Posts: 1,190
That looks like the plastic sliding jaw... I would go to a junkyard, take one apart and see how it fits together?

Does the window work properly with that part out of the way?
__________________
Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-20-2008, 05:11 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,971
That is not a very good picture. Does your camera have the "flower" setting for closeups? It is hard to see what is there.
__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-20-2008, 05:22 PM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnathan1 View Post
That looks like the plastic sliding jaw... I would go to a junkyard, take one apart and see how it fits together?

Does the window work properly with that part out of the way?
Well...yes and no. Without that part the window no longer binds up, but it keeps slipping out of the front and rear window channel. I'll see if I can get some better pictures of it tonight when I get home.
__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-21-2008, 09:50 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 98
I just did this job on my '87 420SEL, but I didn't have the problems that you're having. The problem may be that, when something is jammed so the window motor can't go through its entire range of motion, it exerts a lot of force on the lifting arm and on the motor's three mounting points, and this can bend the lifter arm or said mounting points. It sounds like the lifter arm is bent or cocked so it is not lifting straight up and is instead trying to shove the window out of its channel. Also, if the window can jump out of its channel, there must either be something in the channel itself that it causing the window to jump out, or the channel may be set too loose, or the channel might be broken or defective. You can adjust the channels by loosening their mounting bolts and sliding them toward the window. Check the lifter arm and the interior door sheet metal, where the motor mounts, to make sure nothing is bent. You might need to compare the lifter arm with the one from the other door to see if it is bent.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-21-2008, 01:39 PM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpolli View Post
That is not a very good picture. Does your camera have the "flower" setting for closeups? It is hard to see what is there.
Thanks, what I know about photography can be balanced on the head of a pin. The help is appreciated. I took some more pictures of the mystery part, they are attached and hopefully a bit easier to see. About three weeks ago I finished rebuilding the front suspension on this car, I rebuilt everything...new upper control arms, new lower control arm bushings, new lower ball joints, new spring pads, new guide rods, new guide rod repair kits, guide rod mount, bearing bracket bushings, tie rod ends, drag link, steering damper, eccentric pins, shock absorbers(Bilstein HD), brake rotors, wheel bearings, brake pads..doing all that was easier than replacing this damn regulator
Attached Thumbnails
Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_21_08-006.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_21_08-005.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_21_08-004.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_21_08-007.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_21_08-008.jpg  

__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-21-2008, 03:18 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,971
Look at this thread, especially diagram in post 2. Is that part# 35 the one you have?

126 window regulator question..

I searched on "126 window" and found lots of threads including this one. You might do the same search and look at some of the other threads also.
__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-21-2008, 03:25 PM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by mpolli View Post
Look at this thread, especially diagram in post 2. Is that part# 35 the one you have?

126 window regulator question..

I searched on "126 window" and found lots of threads including this one. You might do the same search and look at some of the other threads also.
Yep, part 35 looks like the culprit., Thanks, I'll read through the other threads.
__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-21-2008, 07:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: W. WI
Posts: 307
You can allways take the inner door panel of the other front door & look at it's design.
I believe that is a slider. Without the slider, there should or may be a 'clunk' as switch is pressed from up to down.
When you assemble the regulator, look at the door weep holes & make sure they can drain.
Also the lub. un the slider is important in cold weather. I use Lubrplate. Any good engine shop has this & will give you a dab ... you don't need a lot.
Also look at the regulator gear. If motor forces the window till gammed, the regulator teeth often strip. Sometimes the regulator frame cracks making the gears missaligned & a strange wear pattern.
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-21-2008, 09:39 PM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostyankee View Post
You can allways take the inner door panel of the other front door & look at it's design.
I believe that is a slider. Without the slider, there should or may be a 'clunk' as switch is pressed from up to down.
When you assemble the regulator, look at the door weep holes & make sure they can drain.
Also the lub. un the slider is important in cold weather. I use Lubrplate. Any good engine shop has this & will give you a dab ... you don't need a lot.
Also look at the regulator gear. If motor forces the window till gammed, the regulator teeth often strip. Sometimes the regulator frame cracks making the gears missaligned & a strange wear pattern.
Thanks for the advice. I had thought about taking apart the drivers side door to see how it is put together. But, given how delicate the tabs are on the door panel I was trying to avoid it if possible.
__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-24-2008, 11:52 AM
Chris Bell's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Earth
Posts: 881
Got it!!!

I figured out where the mystery part goes..see attached photos. The slider end goes into the window slider track behind (towards the rear) the regulator slider. Window works great now.
Attached Thumbnails
Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_23_08-007.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_23_08-004.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_23_08-003.jpg   Need Help With Window Regulator Repair-camera_dump_nov_23_08-002.jpg  
__________________
I'm sick of .sig files
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-24-2008, 01:31 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Seattle
Posts: 1,971
Thank you for posting the solution! And with photos!!!

Was it part # 35 ? It doesn't look like it. Do you think it will fall off again?

__________________
1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:49 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page