I broke a set of tire chains on the 240D trying to get up my hill during the last storm.In the course of flopping around,the flying chain broke the plastic "link" that attaches between the sway bar and the knob on the backing plate.(rear suspension)I went to my nearest pick-n-pull and broke two before getting one off in one piece!
I broke that good one trying to snap it onto the car!The ball/socket is an extremely tight fit.
Should I just call the dealer to price a new one or are there any tips to avoid damaging another used one?
I was thinking maybe the plastic was just brittle from wear/age,but it appeared to be in good shape.It's easy to use big pliers to snap it on the sway bar end but nearly impossible to use this method on the other end.Trying to tap that end on with a ball peen hammer is how I cracked it.
Any thoughts/ideas would be GREATLY appreciated!!!

Buy 'em new. Old plastic tends to bereak upon agitation.

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

They're pretty cheap, too.

__________________
"It's not about how fast you can go, but how well you can go fast."

Bob in Richmond

'97 S320 (LWB), Ruby Red Metallic, 73k miles
'97 S420V, Smoke Silver Metallic, 155k miles

Just order them here from fastlane. They are cheap, and they will make a huge difference in the rattles you hear from your rear end.


-tp

Sounds like you are not removing or installing them correctly..
Picture of the assembly attached...
Sway Bar Link, Rear
MB# 123 320 09 89


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Attached Thumbnails

 

You need to unscrew the ball on each end not try to pop them over it.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Take a 17mm wrench with you next time and they'll come off a whole lot easier.

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1980 500SE/AMG Euro
1981 500SEL Euro
1982 380SEL
1983 300TD
1983 500SEC/AMG Euro
1984 500SEC
1984 300TD Euro
1986 190E 2.3-16
1986 190E 2.3
1987 300D
1997 C36 AMG
2003 C320T 4matic

past: 1969 280SE 4.5 | 1978 240D | 1978 300D | 1981 300SD | 1981 300SD | 1982 300CD | 1983 300CD | 1983 300SD | 1983 380SEC | 1984 300D | 1984 300D | 1984 300TD | 1984 500SEL | 1984 300SD | 1985 300D | 1986 300E | 1986 560SEL | 1986 560SEL/Carat | 1987 560SEC | 1991 300D 2.5 | 2006 R350

I didn't realize these were supposed to unbolt! My bad!!
They weren't what I'd call cheap though.28$ each with shipping to my house
I'll have them Sat AM
My nearest dealer is over 50 miles away,it's easier to pay ups than drive,especially with the car screwed up.
Thanks to all

Huh, I bought mine ~$8 each, and ordered a bunch of other stuff at the same time, so defrayed the shipping cost as well.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

Ouch! They're only $12.38 a piece here on Fastlane. And that's for Lemfoerder brand.

By the way, if you were able to pop the ball out of the socket, then your links were shot anyway. There should be no way to do that when the links are in good shape.

Make sure you have a 17mm, a 16mm, and maybe a 15mm open end wrench. Sometimes the nut is smaller (which is good, because you don't have to have two 17mm wrenches).

-tp

for customer W123 300D.

The skronking rattle crunch sounds you described on the phone should be:
The rear sway bar link plastic ball socket is seriously corroded.

You have two ($1,300.00) new OE axles, and verified the boots are perfect (no leaks).

The oil leaking from the center of the trailing arms + rear body roll + bouncing rear end = bad shocks.

The rear shocks are generally an easy diy.
PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Shocks & Springs


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__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
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Technical Quality Auditor.
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1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

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