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#16
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quick update:
so i tried bleeding through the controller valve bleed nipple... no go... it just trickled a few drops of fluid... even with the engine running... so i got the feeling fluid wasn't being pumped through the system... (fluid level at the reservoir wasn't changing) hard as i tried I couldn't loosen the "P" connection at the valve to test for pump pressure... i also couldn't disconnect the high pressure hose connection at the hose/steel line... the only thing I could loosen was the banjo fitting at the pump itself... so i loosened it up more (than before)... and ran the engine... fluid squirted with a bit of pressure so i figured the pump had "finally" bled itself... i tightened the banjo bolt and fiddled with the actuating lever... LO AND BEHOLD!!!! the car immediately raised/lowered... apparently the pump needed to burp... for the longest time the pump was full of air...maybe dry/maybe not... these pumps are quite robust... i was expecting a pump failure because of lack of fluid for an extended period of time... for those of you who have trouble bleeding the system through the controller nipple... bleed first at the PUMP so you're sure the pump has something to PUSH through the system... otherwise it's all for naught.
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project |
#17
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proper flush SLS
Good deal- you lucked out. I did not.
Now, flush the system the right way every 30K miles, and enjoy SLS http://www.***************/forum/showthread.php?t=494&page=1&pp=20 |
#18
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Congratulations on your determination and success! Another valuable test for cars with self leveling suspension [SLS].
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#19
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yep, was surprised myself... thanks for all the help guys! would've just taken it to a local mechanic to figure out, which i doubt they would, not all mechs here take the time to diagnose, or even care to understand the system...so long as they figure out how to remove and install stuff, you're a certified mech... they just replace stuff... (sad state where i'm from)... one thing in learned when i joined MShop... if you want things done correctly...DO IT YOURSELF....AFTER consulting this site. DIY-ACTS
...i know its always a good idea to flush things... i know for a fact my fluid was FAR from clean... where the heck does it get all that dirt?!
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85 190E 2.3(SOLD) 86 230E (-->300D) sold 87 300D (-->300TD) sold 68 250S w/ a 615 and manual tranny (RIP) 87 300TD (SOLD) 95 S280 "The KRAKEN" (Turbo 2.9 602 transplant) traded 86 190E 2.3... current project Last edited by locry; 01-25-2009 at 07:37 PM. |
#20
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I'm here reading this thread because I just purchased a 1990 300te and the rear end bounces like a basketball when I'm driving down the road. Bought it this way, knowing full well that work and $ will be involved. The rest of the car is nice, so now I need to figure out where the hydraulic pump is, and where I can get fluid locally.
I'm gonna try the burp the pump at the banjo, first thing,,, I'll let you know if it fixes the problem,,,
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Closing the store Benzbonz.biz on your smart phone or tablet. |
#21
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Quote:
http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1990-Mercedes--benz-300te--Base-Suspension&yearid=1990%40%401990&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES%2DBENZ%40%4063%40%40MERCEDES%2DBENZ%40%40X&modelid=6236%3AMBC%7C1521%3AED%7C10000013%3ASM%7C20%40%40300TE+Base&catid=241464%40%40Suspension&subcatid=241574@@Accumulator&mode=PA |
#22
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In the attachment you'll see all the parts. A pump [power steering & SLS], reservoir, controller [#81], 2 accumulators [#4 baseball size] and 2 shock/struts.
You can bleed system at controller top screw. [133 bar = high pressure] Add Febi 2615 Hydraulic fluid to reservoir only - NOT into PS pump that uses different fluid. The rubber hose routed under the reservoir feeding the pump rots and won't hold pressure. |
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