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#1
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M103 Valve cover gasket won't quit leaking
So, I've replaced the valve cover gasket, re-torqued everything down, etc. Still I get leaking in spots, and quite a decent amount at the rear of the block near the half-circle of rubber (typical spot).
I've replaced the breather hoses, etc..... The only thing I haven't done is replace the cruddy peeling paint off the valve cover. I don't think that's the cause... What could be causing this continued leakage? Do I just need to order another gasket and try again or is there something I'm missing? -tp |
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#2
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Maybe the valve cover is bent or has a faulty seal guide so the seal wont set properly. Take it off and test it on a straight edge or a flat table, check the seal guides as well.
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1997 Mercedes E320 Turbo Garrett T3/60-1 Turbocharger Custom Water Intercooler Setup 352rwhp/366rwtq @ 8.6psi in '08 http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/1051/log7smallay9.jpghttp://img66.imageshack.us/img66/740...s3smallox0.jpg |
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#3
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You using a cheap gasket or OEM? I've learned my lessons with crap ones, they don't seem to seal properly.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
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#4
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The M103 was designed to leak from the factory.
![]() I had to...
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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#5
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[QUOTE=pawoSD;2085097]The M103 was designed to leak from the factory.
![]() I thought that was only if they came with the option "External Lubrication System"
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Prost!
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#6
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leaking gaskets
Typical torque specs for MB cam cover gaskets are quite low. For my 117 engine, the spec is 3 to4 Nm. Over torquing often produces distortion and subsequent leaking If your spec is similarly low you will need a 1/4" drive torque wrench since the typical 3/8" drive wrench is not sensitive enough at the low end.
You should also replace the copper crush washers under the bolt heads. Good luck and let us know how it comes out. |
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#7
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[QUOTE=Hirnbeiss;2085183]
Quote:
It's designed to slowly coat the entire undersde of your car with oil.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
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#8
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[QUOTE=Dee8go;2085245]
Quote:
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
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#9
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Well, I started off using really low torque, as you wouldn't expect to need much with a rubber gasket. That didn't work. So, I gently and evenly applied more torque. That didn't work either.
I didn't realize there were crush washers involved. I'll have to look into that. I guess I'll buy a new gasket and some new crush washers and give it a try. While I have the cover off, I'll strip it down and get it powder coated.... I'll post back when I've tried some of those things. Thanks, -tp |
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