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Old 02-13-2009, 11:09 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
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2001 E320 4matic front CV Joint replacement

Hello, I have a 2001 E320 4matic with over 200k miles (original engine and tranny). It has been a great car (aside from minor issues like the rear window regulators and gauge cluster pixel issue). My question is regarding a recent problem with the front CV Joint. About a month ago I started hearing a clicking noise when I turned the wheel sharp and drove slowly (like pulling out of a parking spot). It has started to get a little worse and I did some research. I am 99% sure it is the CV Joint on the right side (passenger side). The research I performed indicated that I would need to replace the entire front drive shaft (right side only) because CV Joints alone are not sold. Pricing for drive shaft isn't too bad though at $125-$200 on average.

I have a couple questions.

First, I'd like to do the replacement myself. I have done quite a bit of car maintenance including brake jobs (pads only) tune ups, etc. I've also done things like valve adjustments and a chain tensioner upgrades on my 1980 Porsche 911. Given that; would this DIY be a reasonable undertaking for me? Times are tight these days and I would love to be able to save several hundred dollars on the labor but at the same time I do not want to get in over my head or do something incorrectly that would seriously endanger me or anyone else driving in the car after I perform this work.

Second, how much longer would it be safe to wait considering the clicking noise showed up about a month ago and I drive the car around 100 miles every day during the week?

Third, should I replace the other drive shaft (driver or left side) as well?

Fourth, will I need to have an alignment done after the drive shaft is replaced? I don't belive it would be necessary but I thought I'd throw it out there just in case.

I did find a step-by-step procedure that someone posted a couple months ago for replacing the drive shaft on a 2000 E320 4matic (same car as mine) and it seems straight forward enough. I'm including that procedure for anyone else's benefit below:

Thanks in advance for everyone's input.


CV axle replacement on 2000 E320 4Matic
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I had a torn cv boot and decided to try and resolve the issue myself..It was right side on my 4Matic. I also replaced the lower ball joint at the same time. I encourage you to do it yourself, it was not a difficult job. However, I had the luxury of an extra vehicle , so I took my time and didn't allow myself to get discouraged.

You do not need any special tools and it is a fairly straight forward job and you can save a ton of money doing it yourself. I have an account with alldatadiy.com for 16bucks a year and followed their instructions with a few mods that I will share. You do not need to remove caliper and rotor! And I did not loosen the lower wishbone nuts (lower control arm.) Nor did I need to remove the underskirt.

1. remove center disc on mag and loosen axle nut or bolt whichever you have before jacking car..27mm?..If you didn't do this you will have to put a screwdriver into the cooling vent of the rotor and brace it against the caliper then loosen the axle bolt/nut.
2. jack up car be safe , take all precautions .
3.Remove the tire .Detach the retaining bracket of the torsion bar from the lower wishbone...13mm two bolts ...simple
4.pull the rubber mount off the torsion bar...simple ..use a crow bar to push down on the torsion bar
5.remove the tie rod to steering knuckle self locking nut (22mm), you may need to use a 5mm hex in the hole in top of the bolt to keep the bolt from turning when you remove the nut (simple) .Press (knock) tie rod end out of steering knuckle..you will have to bang it with a small sledge hammer to loosen it ...it will come, bang the yolk on the steering knucle that it sits in ,not the tie rod itself. No special tools other than a heavy hammer.
6.Press supporting joint out of the steering knuckle (22mm ). This is the lower ball joint to steering knucle. Remove the bottom nut first and then pry the steering knucle away from the ball joint . Again I had to use my small sledge hammer . Now if you choose you can remove the top nut on the lower ball joint so you can remove and replace it.
7. Detach the shock absorber from the lower wishbone..22mm ..simple
8. Press down on the torsion bar with a crow bar and move it over the retaing bracket and out of the way. I used two small crow bars ...simple
9. Pull steering knuckle outwards and slide axle shaft out of the front axle shaft flange. Tie steering knuckle to one side with suitable wire etc...simple
10. Press out and remove the front axle shaft. I used a large screwdriver, laying underneath the car. I pried out the inner cv joint from the tranny...not difficult. Go to utube and see how it is done if need be .
11. Press down on the lower wishbone when removing the axle..careful not to damage axle ....simple.No fluid came out rom tranny when I did this.
12. I bought a new axle from Phil at for $125.00 USD. It is made in China but says it meets or exceeds manufactures spcs.
13. Install is in reverse order.
14. Relace all self locking nuts that you are suppose to ,tie rod ,ball joint ,shock absorber etc as they are self locking. I bought them at Mercedes ..cheap.
15. I bought new cv boot kits ($30) and will rebuild axle I took out as I have two 4Matic Mercedes.

So do a bit of research , I recommend buying the alldata program so you can see all the diagrams. Look up the lower ball joint online so you can appreciate the anatomy of it ..it will make removal easier as there is a positioning pin on it that you need to be aware of. If this is your first time doing this allow 5 hours or so. I could now do this in 2 hours or less. UTube was a great resource watching removal and replacement of the axle. Torque bolts to proper specs. Axle nut is approx 220lbs/ball joint and tie rod approx 75 lbs but check yourself. Alldata gives torque in NM , you will need to multiply that by (.74) to get foot pounds.

Good luck , be safe , have fun and you'll be able to tell your friends you did it. !

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Old 02-17-2009, 01:13 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2
follow-up question

Does anyone know if the springs need to be compressed before attempting this job? I've looked at several procedures that people go over online; including in the technical repair manual on alldatadiy.com and nothing indicates that the front suspension springs have to be compressed. The reason I ask is because on the 4matic models, the spring and shock absorber are together in one unit which is unlike the standard rear wheel drive only cars where the spring and shock absorber are separate.
Procedure says to detach shock absorber from lower wishbone....is there something else preventing the suspension from extending when this is removed??

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