Hi all,

I am trying to do my first head gasket on a 1995 Mercedes e320 wagon. Thanks very much in advance.
It turned out that removing the injector connectors and front timing plate was not that big a deal though my brother-in-law helped me with using a sharp chisel at the top of the timing chain cover to undo the seal that had been there for 14 years.

Now I am getting hung up on a couple more things, primarily the very last intake bolt. As you stand on the drivers side and face the intake bolts it is on the extreme right and bottom of where the black plastic and fuel rail aluminum attach to the head. Too close to the firewall for my comfort. I have a picture at this URL with the partially hidden bolt circled in yellow.

http://home.earthlink.net/~sasjzl/1987volvo240/

I have pretty much come to the conclusion that I need to remove, or at least move, the oil filter recepatcle. I just cannot get a 6mm hex head in there at the angle that the oil filter housing provides me.

Any hints on removing the hex head that attachs the oil dipstick to the head? Same problem with the firewall. The only thing I can get in there is an L Shaped hex key but I cannot get enough leverage on that little thing to get that bolt. It is right up against the inner sidewall.

In the book and the cd pictures it shows an 'intermediate' gear that is revealed when you remove the timing plate not too far below the two cam pulleys. I don't see that on my 1995 e320. As far as I can tell they are not terribly clear in the manuals aobut how the chain comes off. The only way I can think of is to remove the exhaust side pulley using a Torx 40 bit and removing that. I have marked the chain to the pulleys and slid the 4mm into the holes on the pulley from both sides so I am pretty confident about TDC.

Thanks very much,
Jim Lee

1995 E320 Wagon

I Used a Snap On 1/4 drive SHORT socket swivel with a long extension
clean the head of the bolt with brake clean and compressed air before you try to put the socket on the bolt ..if not it WILL round the bolt ...

Make sure to remove the chain tensioner before you remove the the cam gear bolts...also reset the tensioner Before you install it

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MBENZNL.com

Yeah, this is the tool I use as well. I also use a 3/8"-to-1/4" reducer. Using a 3/8" drive makes it easier to crack loose. Removing the oil filter (not the housing) will give you a more favorable angle of attack.