Hey there,

Can I use Bilstein F4-B36-1518-H1 (part for 1983-1991 300E Sedan) instead of the Bilstein F4-B36-1388-H1 (part for 1994-1995 E320 Sedan)? It appears that the valving is the only difference, and lies about 20-30% north of the original Bilstein Comforts. (OEM)

Here's the valving:


1388 - 184/61 - (rebound/compression) 1994-1995 OEM
1518 - 228/86 - 1983-1991 (what I just bought as replacements)
1385 - 265/98 - 1983-1995 - Heavy Duty

The valving of the 1518 is between the correct OEM (comfort) and HD, otherwise, fitment is the same. My only concern is that I'm not replacing the front struts at the same time, and so want an opinion on any handling issues.

That is - I'm using a firmer than original shock on the rear, but not the front. But it's not as firm as a HD Bilstein would be.

Please help if you can. I want to button this job up in the next couple of hours!

Thanks for any educated opinions!

Mark

From a handling standpoint, stiffening the rear either through valving, sway bars, or actual springs will change the way the car handles. A stiffer rear would typically be more prone to oversteering, so I would proceed with caution. I would suggest replacing all 4 at the same time, or going with the rear shocks that match up with your fronts.

In reality, this may not be a huge issue on the street and the snap oversteer stuff won't really turn it's face unless you're on a track, you just never know sometimes. That one emergency maneuver that turns into a snap oversteer situation can be scary for anyone who's not ready for it.

Thanks Chowbow -

I'm going to go ahead with them. I drive rather like an old lady anyway, with the occasional fast highway ramp. The car is driving so poorly right now, that I don't want to take the time for return/resend. I'll post a follow-up later tonight after the test drive. At 158K, it won't be long before I replace the fronts as well, and at that time, probably do all four. I got a rippen' good deal on these, so not much of a loss.

Hey, maybe it'll handle better?

Mark

Then it sounds like you might as well then. If your shocks are so worn that it drives horribly, then good mismatched shocks beats worn shocks any day. Good luck with it.

Well, if only every job was as simple! The new shocks took care of the problem of knocking, shuddering, and jittering over bumps, and the handling seems okay. They don't give as 'sweet' a ride, for sure, but I've got a solid suspension again.

Can you suggest a tire pressure adjustment that would help, if a little, any oversteer issues?

Mark

Do I remember from racing days that that would mean lowering the pressure in the rear relative to the front?

I run all four tires at the same psi (meaning increase the front from the factory rec to equal the rear). You might try that first- maybe 30 or 32 psi all around.

I'm gonna google it. But that's what I did. Lowered the rears by two psi. I did it as much to soften the firmer shocks impact as to correct oversteer. Will report what I find -

Mark

Well, that was quick. Nope. Seems that lowering the rears INCREASES oversteer, which kind of makes sense when you think about it. The front will respond quicker and with more control, while the rears get a chance to gain lateral inertia and break traction, causing unpredictable handling.

Okay, that's just my description, but looking around, it seems that I need to do the opposite, and lower the fronts relative to the rears to correct for oversteer. Check some forums and then there's this:

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=58

Mark