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  #31  
Old 04-08-2009, 01:19 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 290
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ivanerrol View Post
You can reassemble everything and leave the fan clutch and fan off to test.
You will still need to replace the heater pipe. There is a allen headed bolt behind the fan pulley that must be removed to change this pipe. You don't need to remove the fan pulley but you will need to remove the distributor cap to get at it. Don't forget to get a new o ring for the heater pipe where it goes into the water pump.
The radiator can go back in. A new fan clutch is a doddle to put in later.
If the hose between the engine and thermostat still leaks then you have no alternative than pull the water pump.

By the way, which direction will the coolant flow out of the water pump when I start up the car. I need to flush the wrong coolant that is in the car right now (its green, thanks to the indy) and put in the yellow coolant which I also bought today from the dealer. I figure once I reconnect the clamps, etc. I will just redirect the hose that goes from the water pump to the radiator into a bucket. Then start teh car and have the fluid pump out of the engine into a waiting bucket. However I am unsure which of the two hose is into the engine and which is out. I am talking about the upper & lower radiator hose. Any idea which is which?

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  #32  
Old 04-08-2009, 01:22 AM
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Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 290
By the way, can someone please tell me if a tensioner unit from a 190E 2.3L engine is compatible with the 260E 2.6L engine? Can I take the one from the 2.3L and put it into my 2.6L engine? I know it will need to be replaced sooner or later. It appears that the local craigslist has a guy parting out his 2.3L 190E and I am just seeing what i can buy off him.
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  #33  
Old 04-08-2009, 02:42 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Melbourne Australia
Posts: 844
Tensioners are different - not compatible.

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