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  #1  
Old 05-16-2009, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by 2020pup View Post
pentoman..i'm not sure if the distributor has been moved or not..I couldn't find my timing light. as far as cranking the car, it seems the same to me as in its not dragging with four plugs in it. when i try it with three it starts almost instantly. I mean not even (it sounds) a full turn.. thanks for your ideas

tinypanzer..it doesn't matter which plug i pull out. one plug has to be physically out of the head. I dont see any soot from the tailpipe but funny you should mention the plugs. they have only been ran in the car for maybe 15 minutes and the are black looking. the air meter plate doesn't seem to get sucked down any..
Are you still positive that the Vacuum Hoses are connected at all locations on both sides of the Idle Control Valve, especially under the throttle?
At idle, you should see the plate getting sucked down a little.
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  #2  
Old 05-16-2009, 06:39 PM
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yeah I'm positive. haven't got to fool with it today we are getting hammered by thunderstorms
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  #3  
Old 05-19-2009, 04:18 AM
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Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

You're running rich so try leaning out the EHA by way of 1/8 of a turn increments.
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:01 PM
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on settin the mixture, my uncle said for the base line setting. the air meter flap should have 2mm of play before it hits resistance. that would put me in the ballpark of where I need to be..can anyone verify this?? my uncle is a bullsh@#&^ at times..
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Old 05-19-2009, 06:12 PM
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When the engine is off that sounds about right, but I wouldn't say it's a scientific or particularly accurate method to set it up, by any means!
Also check it doesn't jam in the hole while you're there obviously.

I imagine your car has an o2/lambda sensor so is supposed to self regulate its mixture.... not sure how that works as its not common in the uk.
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  #6  
Old 05-19-2009, 11:27 PM
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thanks for the information pentoman.!!!!! I'll try setting it that way...I've tried everything else..ha ha ha ha..just can't make up my mind where the problem is (as in fuel, ignition, sensor or hell all three).I feel like I'm close but no cigar yet....Anyone else have any ideas?? Even if it is something silly please don't be shy and post...I appreciate everyone suggestions
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  #7  
Old 05-20-2009, 06:03 PM
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Just wait until you try to fix that suspension after those stupid ghetto rims.....
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  #8  
Old 05-17-2009, 02:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slk230red View Post
Are you still positive that the Vacuum Hoses are connected at all locations on both sides of the Idle Control Valve, especially under the throttle?
At idle, you should see the plate getting sucked down a little.

I stand corrected. It does move down just a little..I have gotten it to run with all four plugs in now. It seems it was timed too low but not 100% sure if it was high or low. I moved the distribitor and it is a lot better. I can't really see the crank pulley to see the timing marks. Is there and easier angle to get my light in there? Or do I need to take something off? I really think this thing was messed up a lot worst than I thought. And think it more of a timing issue now. I did notice that it smells really rich coming from the line that runs from the valve cover to air filter housing.. any thoughts
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  #9  
Old 05-17-2009, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2020pup View Post
I stand corrected. It does move down just a little..I have gotten it to run with all four plugs in now. It seems it was timed too low but not 100% sure if it was high or low. I moved the distribitor and it is a lot better. I can't really see the crank pulley to see the timing marks. Is there and easier angle to get my light in there? Or do I need to take something off? I really think this thing was messed up a lot worst than I thought. And think it more of a timing issue now. I did notice that it smells really rich coming from the line that runs from the valve cover to air filter housing.. any thoughts
It's running with all 4 plugs! Great!!!
Like pentoman stated, you don't adjust the timing on your engine, although I know the Distributor has a slot and adjustment bolt.

Vacuum hose and gas smell- do you have a small hose that goes from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to a T fitting in that line you're referring to? It's there for any fuel leakage from the FPR.

Just curious, is your air/fuel mixture adjustment tower still sealed or has it been cut off or modified to make adjustments? If you do decide to adjust it, only do it in very small increments.
Sometimes it only takes a slight turn to smooth the idle out. I've only adjusted mine once, after I replaced the head gasket.
CW=Rich
CCW=Lean
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Last edited by slk230red; 05-17-2009 at 03:37 PM.
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  #10  
Old 05-17-2009, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by slk230red View Post
It's running with all 4 plugs! Great!!!
Like pentoman stated, you don't adjust the timing on your engine, although I know the Distributor has a slot and adjustment bolt.

Vacuum hose and gas smell- do you have a small hose that goes from the Fuel Pressure Regulator to a T fitting in that line you're referring to? It's there for any fuel leakage from the FPR.

Just curious, is your air/fuel mixture adjustment tower still sealed or has it been cut off or modified to make adjustments? If you do decide to adjust it, only do it in very small increments.
Sometimes it only takes a slight turn to smooth the idle out. I've only adjusted mine once, after I replaced the head gasket.
CW=Rich
CCW=Lean

I know the computer does 98% of the timing just wanted to make sure it was in. No telling what has been done to this car before me. Just thought it was odd that it would run when i adjust the timing at the distributor and that would run on all four, which lead me too think timing..But can't figure a way to get the light in there

The line I'm referring too is the same line that runs to ICV and up to valve cover and then to the bottom of the air filter housing..It's got a lot of blow by to. Thinking with that maybe valve seals. But one problem at a time here.

The tower has not be cut but they have popped the bb out to make adjustments.I guess.. Thanks for the direction on the lean and rich..LOL..that was next question.

But we have come a long long long with this car.
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  #11  
Old 05-17-2009, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 2020pup View Post
I know the computer does 98% of the timing just wanted to make sure it was in. No telling what has been done to this car before me. Just thought it was odd that it would run when i adjust the timing at the distributor and that would run on all four, which lead me too think timing..But can't figure a way to get the light in there

The line I'm referring too is the same line that runs to ICV and up to valve cover and then to the bottom of the air filter housing..It's got a lot of blow by to. Thinking with that maybe valve seals. But one problem at a time here.

The tower has not be cut but they have popped the bb out to make adjustments.I guess.. Thanks for the direction on the lean and rich..LOL..that was next question.

But we have come a long long long with this car.
Yes, I know that line well.

If the BB has been popped out, then chances are it's been adjusted or messed with at some time. After I completed my head gasket job, the engine would not idle like it did before. Upon further examination, I found that if I gently pressed down on the round plate the engine would smooth out. So, I cut off the top of the tower and turned the adjustment just slightly and that fixed the problem. I checked the duty cycle and it's right where it should be.

If you have a Digital Volt Meter and can get your engine to idle, unscrew the round cap on the x11 Diagnostic Connector (drivers side above the Ignition Control Module) and measure the DC Voltage from pin 3 to ground.

What is the measurement?

From manual:

b) Voltage measurement with multimeter or
lambda control tester (12 volt position) at
contact 3 of diagnostic connector to
ground.
Engine 102.961 (2.3) 198311984
Engine 102.985 up to 1986
Test value: 2.1-4.8 volts


If you do attempt to make an air/fuel mixture adjustment, go slow, very slight turns, and let the system adjust itself after each slight turn. There is a spring in there and it has to be pushed down to get to the adjustment screw. I think it's a 3mm allen wrench. Remember, it's not the same as adjusting a carburetor.
The attachment is similar to your air/fuel mixture.
Attached Thumbnails
1986 190E isn't gettin fuel from distribution-adjust1.jpg  
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Last edited by slk230red; 05-17-2009 at 06:56 PM.
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  #12  
Old 05-17-2009, 11:37 PM
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you are kidding right? you most certaintely cannot pull a plug from a cylinder head and start the engine...are you messing with me? what?
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2009, 11:57 PM
GDC GDC is offline
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you are kidding right? you most certaintely cannot pull a plug from a cylinder head and start the engine...are you messing with me? what?
Why not? I had a two cylinder diesel tractor that had a clamp failure and ballistic loss of one injector and would start and run on one cylinder. I knew a guy in high school who ran a v8 on six cylinders because he stripped the plug threads in one cylinder and found it vibrated less on six than seven. He ran it for several weeks that way until he could afford to fix it properly.
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  #14  
Old 05-18-2009, 12:16 AM
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you are kidding right? you most certaintely cannot pull a plug from a cylinder head and start the engine...are you messing with me? what?

No cliffmac...ha ha ha ha...not messing with you..if could post you a video i would..it is kinda neat though it sounded just like a old steam engine train.choo choo choo choo...ha ha


I dont know what happen to DAMMIT but now I'm back to starting it and it runs for a second and dies. Was going to do what you suggested slk230red but I cant get it to idle no more..Thought it may have been out of gas, so put two gallons in and it's still doing the same.. on the bright side I found a green wire that ran from ignition module to the distributor pinched underneath the power steering fluid tank. It was nicked real bad. I fixed it..didn't see any signs of burning on it..don't know guys I'm growing really tired of not knowing what's wrong with this thing!! Any ideas??
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  #15  
Old 05-18-2009, 12:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cliffmac View Post
you are kidding right? you most certaintely cannot pull a plug from a cylinder head and start the engine...are you messing with me? what?
Yeah, I know it sounds crazy but you can. I had a Champion spark plug blow apart while driving a Pontiac Lemans in 1972, the engine kept running and I made it to a Service Station (back when we such things). They replaced the plug, never bought a Champion plug since.

This has been a wild and crazy thread. I'm leaving for a Caribbean cruise so I'll have to check back next week to catch up on the latest scoop.
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