Flex plate 300E 91

I noticed on 91 300E 164K a play at the flexible coupling from the transmission to the driveshaft. I figure 3 bolts to tranny and three to driveshaft. No room there to move easily. Any special instructions for its replacement? is is a DIY task?
Play is about 3mm so can it wait? When cold it clunks upon reverse (not much but it is annoying)

[Ed Richardson]

Do not wait, replace ASAP. If you are a good DIY'er, yes it can be done. Don't know if the disc still has a front and back, but make sure you get in in correctly. If you are not sure, take it to the dealer or independent, soon! If the disc fails, great damage. Ed

[jeffsr]

You are well advised to avoid postponing this repair. The extra vibration could possibly damage a number of seals, bearings and bushings. You will have to drop the front of the driveshaft by removing the center bearing support sleeve (two capscrews). Exhaust may have to be moved out of the way as well. Not a difficult task, but requires some patience. Don't know if the newer flex discs have orientation arrows, take a look at what's there. This will only get worse. The time it takes to do so will depend on your driving habits..

[JDUB]

Sounds to me that you're capable of doing it yourself. It is not too difficult. Buy the flex disc fromparts shop as well as the MB Service manual from parts shop. You have got to get to the clamping nut on the driveshaft to gain enough clearance to get the flex disc out. There is a centering sleeve in the driveshaft that fits over a centering stub on the transmission flange that must be cleared in order to remove the driveshaft. lossing the clamping nut and slide the front section of the driveshaft back.
One the other hand you may want to completely remove the driveshaft to replace the center bearing anyway with 164k on the clock.

Thanks for all the good advice.let's see:
with that 3mm and clunk play do not wait as vibration may ruin additional parts, I am still a bit confused about the process. Do I have to remove a cross-member that apparently supports a transmission mount? if there is a centering sleeve, then I must slide it away to move the driveshaft away? and with 164K now it seems a good idea to replace the centering bearing (did not realize it was there)which I figure would include undoing the rear flexible coupling?......how about some highlights of the repair sequence please?
Thanks once more

[jeffsr]

Leave the transmission mount as is. I think there is a heat shield that covers part of the driveshaft. If so, this will have to come out. The centering stub on the output flange mates with a pilot bearing in the nose of the front end of the shaft. To separate these components, you will have to looses the compression nut on the center section splined joint and disconnect the center support bearing carrier from the body. Once you have removed the flex disk nuts and capscrews, slide the front end of the shaft back until the centering stub is free of the pilot bearing in the shaft. Do not separate the shaft into two pieces unless you clearly mark the relationship between the front and rear sections. The shaft is balanced in a certain orientation between the front and rear sections and if not reassembled correctly may end up out of balance. Bolt the flex disk to the tranny flange first and then replace the shaft and finish the job. Make sure you obtain new hardware for the flex disk (new nuts and capscrews). Not recommended for reuse. Put it all back and drive it home...

Thanks for the advice. I'll let you know how it goes.

[DMarble]

I changed the front flex disk on my 88 300E just recently. It was a fairly easy job. Raise the car and put it on reliable and very stable jack stands, keep in mind that you are under that car and you do not want it to fall on you. You will have to remove the six bolts that attach it to the transmission and drive shaft, then using a very large screwdriver as a pry bar pop the bushings in the flexdisk out of the counterbores in the drive shaft and the transmission. You should be able to slide the driveshaft back about 2" to the rear. I did not drop the center of the drive shaft but instead I put a jack under the transmission removed the transmission mount and carefully lowered the back of the transmission (about 3/4") until the flex disk fell out on the floor. do not lower it too far as you may damage some things at the back of the engine that you are not watching. I then put the new flexdisk in, slid the driveshaft forward and using the new hardware
supplied with it reassembled it then tightened everything up. Keep in mind the flex disc IS directional. The side with the numbers on it goes toward the REAR of the car. Once everything is torqued properly put the transmission mount back on raise the transmission and tighten that up, you're done. I got my parts at the Parts Shop in a matter of two or three days and was very pleased with the price and quality.

[dtanesq]

Assuming one neither has the time nor the tools (long story on the latter) to do so, what could one expect to pay an independent for replacement of the flex discs on a 1986 300E? Any ideas?

[JCE]

My tech charged me $140 about 2 years ago for the flex disk parts and labor (as well as a faulty brake sensor).

[loubapache]

<<
My tech charged me $140 about 2 years ago for the flex disk parts and labor (as well as a faulty brake sensor).
>>

That is pretty good.

I took my car to the mechanic this morning and he is replacing the front flex disk for me in two weeks (busy place and he has to order the part).

As I cannot take a new disk to him (like taking a piece of meat to a restaurant and ask them to cook for me), he ordered form the local MB dealer 60 miles away. For my 91 300E, the disk lists for $95 and with shipping, it will costs me $107 with shipping and his mark-up.

If I buy it myself, I think the best I can do is around $80.

So your price of $140 with labor is excellent as I can see there is easily 1 - 2 hours of labor involved in replacing it.

Bo