Right now I have everything apart and the timing chain off, I can in the house to pull some more info off my WIS program and something went wrong and I do not have access to it.

What do I need to do when replacing the timing chain and also the timing chain guides.

I had take everything apart because of some nasty oil leaks, so I might as well take care of them now.

Also, the engine is an m103 in a 1989 300 TE

a belt or a chain?

It's a chain, It looks like it is pretty simple and straight forward but I do not want to take any chances.

also, when I put the tensioner back in is there anything special I should do? I could have sworn I read that it was something more then just putting it back in and bolting it up.

OK. I am going to spend some time trying to figure out what happened to my computer.

Tensioner pin has to be pushed thru and re-loaded from the front.
It is a ratchet design and holds it's last position, which will be too tight for a new chain.
Failure to do this will result in much engine damage. [ breaks camshafts right in half ]
Very common/costly over-sight. Even by good mechanics.

Tutorial Note for readers:

The concept of the ratchet design of the extending pin was to overcome a problem with earlier style tensioners loosing their pressure from sitting. The results of those was the famous "Chain Rattle " of earlier engines. The chain
would be loose fromthe tensioner relaxing until the engine got the oil pressure back up for the tensioner to do it's job. So, by having a ratchet type tensioner , the pin can only extend longer , [as the chain wears/lengthens], but the ratchet never lets it shorten, regardless of how long it sits..It holds/locks it's last position .
This eliminates the possibility of a loose tensioner at start-up, but if one does not know this when doing any chain work, they put the tensioner back in and it is too tight b/c of it's last extended/locked position..thereby having the probability of serious breakage damage to valve-train parts.

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A Dalton

The pin that you are talking about is the one that you need the special tool to get out right? You can also make the tool with a bolt, some nuts, and washers?

No
That is a chain rail guide tool.

Archieves "Tensioner."

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A Dalton

OK, you mean the the tensioner on passenger side of the block....I had to take it out when I pulled the head for valve guides.

Correct.

What did you think "Tensioner " meant ?????

It has a pin that extends [ lengthens ] as the chain wears. to keep the chain tensioned ..............
That pin has to be taken out and put back in from the front of the assembly or you will Blow the engine up b/c it will be exrended too far for a new chain.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1989-Mercedes--Benz-300te-Engine--Mechanical&yearid=1989%40%401989&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6241%3AMBC%7C1521%3AED%7C10000013%40%40300TE&catid=240154%40%40Engine+Mechanical&subcatid=240315@@Timing+Chain+Tensioner&mode=PA

OK?

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A Dalton

Yeah were O.K.


I was having bit of a brain fog moment and confused it with the rail (thought the pin might have been a mounting thing), just thought it would be better to really make sure since I has already messed it up once.

thank you,
dan

Very good..
Better safe than sorry.

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A Dalton