Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 05-05-2009, 08:50 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,015
My odometer finally stopped working! Also more questions

Did a search and found SOME info, but not nothing really that helpful and I have a couple of additional questions anyway.

Well, out of all of the Mercedes I have had, I finally have one that the odometer stopped working on... on my '88 W126. It had to of stopped working the last time I drove it, which was this past Sunday. My fuel gauge is not that accurate, so I use my trip odometer as a "guide". I guess that was a no-no, because it probably helped it stop working sooner than it would have where I was resetting it. ? Anyway, no the trip odometer AND mileage odometer have stopped. Its now on 156,539 miles and stuck as of today. I want to get this fixed asap, but wondering whats the best way to do it and what will a indy shop normally charge for this and what parts do I need and where can I buy?

Also, ALL of my warning lights EXCEPT the battery, anti-lock and check engine lights are fairly dim. Battery, anti-lock and check engine lights are bright. Does this sound like those other bulbs may need replaced, or is that some other issue? I thought while the cluster was out, it would be a good time to replace these warning bulbs.

My SRS indicator light dont even illuminate.... either a bad bulb, or someone disconnected the system?

Also, while my dash illumination bulbs are fairly bright, I would not mind upgrading to those LED bulbs everyone has been boasting about while the shop has the unit out.

Thanks in advance.

Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-05-2009, 10:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,236
I just dealt with this issue recently, and it's not too bad a job.

First, you will need to order the 12 tooth gear from odometergears.com, or at least that was the gear used in my '90 300SE. I think yours should be the same.

Then, you have to pull the instrument cluster out, which is really no big deal at all. You can do a search here and see how to make the tools and how to use them. Easy.

Then you just have to open up the cluster enough to get to the broken gear. It is the tiny gear that sits on the end of the motor shaft that drives the odo.

You will notice that the plastic gear that was on there has split, leaving the metal insert that was once part of the gear on the shaft. You do not have to remove this insert. The new gear is designed to go over it. Here's the tricky bit - pressing the new gear on there. It's a tight fit, and mine never went all the way on, but it went on far enough to hold well and work properly. At some point I just decided that I was more likely to break it if I applied more force to get it to seat 100%. It has worked fine. Forces are so tiny that it's plenty "on there" to hold.

Once you get it seated, I would apply a dab of vaseline or similar heavy grease. The new gear has the tendency to be a bit noisy under certain conditions, particularly when it's very cold. Odometergears.com says this is normal, I say they could have done a better job of making that not happen.

Then the light bulbs - some have little plastic bases that twist-lock into cutouts on the circuit board of the cluster. Others are hard wired to the harness inside the dash. The twisties are easy to replace, the other ones require a splice and solder or a crimp.

Here's the cool thing - you can get all the bulbs you need from a junkyard cluster because only a few of the bulbs ever come on long enough to wear out and get dim. Those are the frontlighting bulbs, the low gas bulb, the brights bulb, and maybe one or two others. The rest of them only come on for a few seconds when you start your car and never accumulate any wear.

You can tell if the bulb is dim or not by if it has a silvery coating inside the glass. That coating is actually metal that has evaporated off of the filament and deposited itself on the glass. Very easy to spot.

If you can't find any, I have several good used cluster bulbs of both the twist-in and hard wired type.

Holler at me if you have any questions about it......
__________________
-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 05-06-2009, 08:26 AM
Cal Learner's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Marysville, CA
Posts: 781
Am I wrong about this, or isn't it by design that some of the idiot lights are dim and some are bright? Can't remember offhand where I saw that, but it seems like it was in the FSM. That doesn't mean that the OP's bulbs aren't dimmer than they should be and would benefit from being replaced when the cluster is out.
__________________
1988 California version 260E (W124)
Anthracite Grey/Palomino
Owned since new and still going strong and smooth
MBCA member

Past Mercedes-Benz:
1986 190E Baby Benz
1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized
1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin'

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 05-06-2009, 06:23 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,236
That wouldn't surprise me if some were dimmer by design, but the bulbs appear to be all the same, so if that is the case than the different brightnesses are probably accomplished with external resistors..... I assume....
__________________
-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 05-08-2009, 12:08 AM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,015
Thanks a bundle for the replies and information! At the concern of me breaking something, I will probably end up letting my "indy" Mercedes shop do this work on the odometer. I dont think he would charge to much to do it.

I am not sure about the warning lights, why some are brighter than others, but I know that my 1984 190D and 1985 380SE were identical.... some warning lights were quite dim and dimmer than others. It may be normal... maybe someone that bought one of these brand new or have one thats still with ultra low mile and new mint condition may have more info on this?

Thanks again!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 05-08-2009, 12:48 AM
Hit Man X's Avatar
I LOVE BRUNETTES
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: FUNKYTOWN
Posts: 9,087
Thumbs up

Sounds like a fairly simple fix.

__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2022, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page