CLK 430 TRANSMISSION TROUBLE - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

david s poole · #16 05-09-2009, 11:00 AM

those early models of 722.6 trans had a common problem with a bearing that was later changed to a diff type [2000] i think.

Paul · #17 05-10-2009, 08:17 PM

david is right. the early 6s had bearing failure and has been updated. by looking at what looks to me as roller bearings in your pan i would bet money that your planetary gear is toast. replacing internal parts like that would like ILUVMILS said earlier make rebuilding a bad decision. maybe even nearing the cost of a factory unit.
paul

jjohnv · #18 05-13-2009, 10:21 AM

I got the transmission from Nick at General Auto recycling in Tiverton Rhode Island. DO NOT USE THEM!!! They are a bunch of thieves. After several phone conversations I made it very clear that I wanted a 2002 722.632. They told me sure no problem we have it, gave me a cash discount of 900+tax. I couldn't make it Friday or Monday, I went on Tuesday, (yesterday). I step to the counter ask for Nick, and he tells me to wait while they pull the transmission. He returns with the paperwork, give him the money and Read the paper and it says it's a '00 transmission. I asked for the '02. He says its all the same, I say No it's not. There is a lot of back and forth between he and I regarding the year of the transmission. He goes into the back, then returns 5 minutes later. He talks with the boss in hushed tones at the desk right in front of me. Nick returns from the Boss, and tells me that the 2002 has not been tested even though the ad on Car-parts says it drove nice. Tells me that the 2000 was tested and it OK, but they don't know about the 02, tells me he's trying to be honest. I tell him, I could have gotten a 2000 20 miles from my house if that is what I wanted, instead of driving 3.5 hours. He again goes away, comes back 10 minutes later says, "you're all set"... I pay, he hands me the papers, again it has the vin from the 2000. Again I say we have a problem, again he disappears in the back. Finally he emerges with paper work that says 2002. I know it is a different transmission than what was offered because I saw it. But the vin is not on the transmission. I have no Idea if I have a 2002. (YES, they do offer a 30 day warranty). I loaded they car and drove off quickly. As I was driving off, I wandered why they tried to Bait and switch me TWICE!!! Just then, a parts ML from the local Mercedes dealer drove into the driveway. Draw your own conclusions, but I think they promised the transmission to the MB Dealer. I am going to take a closer look at the transmission for any markings to link it to the 2002 vin.

jjohnv · #19 05-17-2009, 10:35 AM

I'm ready to start reinstalling the transmission. I got a little sidetracked when I bought that triumph motorcycle at auction. I got that running and it is a beast. I never owned a pure sportbike before and this is really great. can't wait to post pictures.

mbdoc · #20 05-18-2009, 10:15 AM

On any used part...change the fluid.

You can flush the cooler before installing the used trans, just connect a can of aerosol flush to either of the lines.

You most likely will have to re-adapt the trans after installing.

jjohnv · #21 05-23-2009, 09:18 AM

I got the transmission on, I order a transmission dipstick from the local parts supplier, put it in 4 quarts of atf+4 I dumped 1 into the torque converter before I put it on. The transmission dipstick turned out to be the engine oil dipstick even though I asked him to double check the part number because it didn't look right.

I took it for a test drive, and besides all the lights, BAS ESP, Antilock Brakes, there was a ticking sound. I put it in reverse and it moved, put it in drive it moved. Feeling more confident, I drove around the block. My feeling of joy and accomplishment soon disappeared because the transmission would not shift. I tried several trips around the block with the same result. The grinding noise ever present, I jacked the car up with it running an tried to trace it down. It seemed to be coming from the flywheel. After a couple of stops and starts of the engine, and I tried to clear the codes from the climate control unit and my VAG-Com odb2 reader, (there were no codes), My starter seemed to miss, not catch, until finally the starter just wurred (sp). I realized that in attaching the torque converter to the drive plate, I damaged the starter sprocket holes on the flywheel. In turning the crankshaft, first to remove the old tranny, (which was much easier) I used a screw driver against the flywheel and was able to move it 1/2" at a time. WHen the crank reached it's limit say tdc or at the bottom, I would put the screwdriver in the sprocket holes to move it, I know a couple of these were put out of true. So since those sprocket holes were out of true, they ground the starter sprocket to nothing. I used another car to push the CLK into the garage, and started to jack the car back up to test my theory when it fell off the jack and bent the jackstand slightly. (I'm going to buy new jackstands) So I thought I would let things lay a bit.

So 3 things. I think the transmission itself is fine. I need to hook the car up to a star machine or carsoft to wake the transmission up. I need to see if the damage I did to the flywheel starter sprocket holes can be fixed, if not I need to get a new part. I need to pull the starter and confirm the damaged I did, either get a new sprocket for the starter, or a new starter.

In poking around the crankshaft pulley, I noticed in the middle there is a big allen keyway. I wonder if I can turn the engine in this way, does anyone know the size? Looks atleast 20mm. If not I devised a tool using part of a circulator pump flange and 2 2'' bolts and a 3" 3/4 black pipe nipple to turn the crank with a pipe wrench. It works, but I also wonder if I can just attach the torque converter first, then slip the transmission on top of that. Proper tools and a bentley manual would have saved me a lot of trouble, but it's my own mistake and I think, inspite of how it sounds, I'm not that far off. (of course my wife wants to kill me).

jjohnv · #22 05-24-2009, 09:16 PM

yea...the bit about the grinding...how do you say...dohooo! I didn't hook up the starter correctly, and now everything seems good. no Noise, no grinding, and it starts cleanly. still need the star machine. I hope I can find an independent or a handy diy. Going to the dealer is really a last resort. My neighbor's son works for mercedes and I thought I had a go in for parts. But when I told him what I had done, he said only a trained MB technicain could do those things and totally gave me the company line on how the only involvement I should have with the car is turning the key on and turning the key off....thanks but no thanks....I'm glad I didn't ruin the car and look forward to getting it shifting.

jjohnv · #23 05-28-2009, 10:21 AM

(it's a good thing I'm not holding my breath for all this technical help) anyway...I finally found some one who was competent with the Snap-on Modus machine. Of the other 5 or so, they had the equipment, but not the know how. One guy wouldn't work on it in front of me, I think because he didn't want to "scratch his head..." in front of a customer. An other guy wouldn't hook the car up because "he didn't want to burn the transmission up when he recalibrated the gear ratios" Anyway...All the solenoids in the valve body showed failure. I didn't catch what the codes are, but after we cleared the codes and test drove it, the car didn't shift so often..it would shift at 4000 rpm, the stay in 5th then maybe down shift. At WOT the transmission would stick in 4th or 5th. We tried to read the codes again, but they didn't register yet, the guy, Richie at Nico's repair in Stamford, said it would take 2 test drives for the codes to show. When we put it in gear to start the next drive, it wouldn't shift from park to drive, the engine raced a bit, then it bumped into gear. He said I need a new valve body because the solenoids are bad. As I drove the car, it seemed to shift more often, so I wonder, if it will get better as I drive it; who knows how long it sat, or if that makes a difference. I also wonder if I can just pull the old solenoids off the busted transmission and drop them in place. The old tranny shifted fine, it was the planetary gears and roller bearings that are shot. Nico offered me 550 to replace the valve body, which I thought was an alright price considering I'm seeing these on ebay for 350, and the individual solenoids here on peach parts for 35 x 6 = 210. Not sure what to do. The transmission has a "Guarantee" but I would have to get it back to the Rhode Island crooks at the wrecking yard and leave it with them so they can "examine it". So I think I am better on my own. Looks like my 900 dollar transmission is going to cost me $1200 anyway.

jjohnv · #24 05-28-2009, 12:53 PM

currently I am taking apart the old valve body from the damaged transmission. Any one know of a schematic? sandwiched in the middle is a plate, underneath which is 12 ball bearings, 4 black and 8 silver. Unfortunately, I opened the thing on it's side and the ball bearings fell out before I could note where they live.

loubapache · #25 05-28-2009, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjohnv

currently I am taking apart the old valve body from the damaged transmission. Any one know of a schematic? sandwiched in the middle is a plate, underneath which is 12 ball bearings, 4 black and 8 silver. Unfortunately, I opened the thing on it's side and the ball bearings fell out before I could note where they live.

Have a look, John.

jjohnv · #26 05-28-2009, 07:45 PM

Bo...that is awesome...thanks so much.. is there a drawing for the pistons and springs on the lower part too??? I can't remember if all the springs go on the top or if some go underneath the pistons.

loubapache · #27 05-28-2009, 07:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jjohnv

Bo...that is awesome...thanks so much.. is there a drawing for the pistons and springs on the lower part too??? I can't remember if all the springs go on the top or if some go underneath the pistons.

See attached.

Edit: It is exceeding the limit of the forum. PM me or email me.

Southern · #28 05-29-2009, 02:56 PM

I have read both of your posts and noticed three issues.

First you didn't use the recommended ATF fluid for this trans, Mercedes recommends a "special" synthetic fluid. Second if you only put in 4 quarts you don't have enough trans fluid. I used over 7 liters from just draining the torque converter and dropping the pan. If you blew out the trans cooler lines you are looking at around 8 liters. Last you didn't measure the trans fluid level (unless you got the correct "special tool"). These transmissions are very sensitive to trans fluid level.

I do admire your do it yourself attitude.

jjohnv · #29 05-29-2009, 10:46 PM

thanks ray.

jjohnv · #30 05-30-2009, 09:56 AM

just a quick update. I drained the oil, (all 8.5liters of it...you know, that chrysler atf+4 crap) and dropped the pan. THanks MB DOC and all the others for your help and Guidance, and supplying me with tech drawings. I am trying to trouble shoot the valve body and compare it to the old one. THe new valve body, it looks like some one was in here before. A 5 point bolt is stripped, not the only one, but the only one I can't get out, and I am not going to touch it with an easy-out. I will try to test the solenoids, look at the valve springs, clean it up and reinstall and see if I have shifting. To my surprise, I did find metal shavings in the pan on the "new" transmission. Is some small metal particles normal? Also found some very old fluid in the valve body, like the valve never opened. I should have it back on this afternoon.