Shrader A/C Valve leaking - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

ps2cho · #1 05-11-2009, 02:05 AM

Think I have figured out why the A/C isn't working on my 87 260E. Vac Pumped it and it held vacuum when I came back 30mins later...but there is bubbling coming from the shrader valve when I began to recharge the system. I managed to get the old one out.

Is this valve something generic I could buy locally or is it MB-Specific?

I just want to double check before I go searching locally.

E150GT · #2 05-11-2009, 07:59 AM

I think it is a common one. Mine was leaking and a local shop replaced mine.

slk230red · #3 05-11-2009, 12:11 PM

I took my old one with me to a NAPA store purchased new ones.

Johnhef · #4 05-11-2009, 02:36 PM

Just borrow one from one of your tires valve stems

ps2cho · #5 05-11-2009, 04:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slk230red

I took my old one with me to a NAPA store purchased new ones.

Went to pepboys and they don't carry anything like that.

Looks like the closest NAPA store to me is 30miles away. I'll just go to the stealership as its 8miles away from me. Not worth the time, hassle and gas.

Fingers crossed tonight I'll have the A/C working

Johnhef · #6 05-11-2009, 08:17 PM

I was serious, buy a valve stem and remove the cores and replace the ones in your A/C lines. You're just going to confuse those poor dealer parts boys

Arthur Dalton · #7 05-11-2009, 08:42 PM

>

You can not confuse them....they will just tell you to Drive Up to the Second Window, Sir.

ps2cho · #8 05-11-2009, 09:41 PM

Alright got the part from the stealership. $15 rip off....whatever. I didn't wanna mess around with parts that may or may not work. If I can get the A/C functional tonight then I will be very happy.

You take A/C for granted in southern california/any hot climate

ps2cho · #9 05-12-2009, 12:49 AM

Okay I filled the system with 3x 12oz cans and I can't hear any pressure leaking out...the compressor clicks and clicks, but does not engage completely.

It seems the car was retrofitted with some sort of fan control. When I bridged the two shown in the picture, the A/C should turn on right? Nothing happens when they are bridged.
Could this be an electrical problem?

Any ideas?

Hit Man X · #10 05-12-2009, 01:06 AM

Probably to make the Aux Fans run constantly to help with low speed/idle performance.

Matt L · #11 05-12-2009, 10:31 AM

Have you checked for power at the clutch? If you have it, how big is the clutch gap?

samiam44 · #12 05-13-2009, 08:47 PM

Have you put your hand on the end of the compressor pulley and turned it? Ie is the compressor locked up????

ps2cho · #13 05-13-2009, 09:39 PM

The compressor was working because I had A/C coming through the vents periodically.

It would just keep clicking (literally) on and off...It wont stay on all the time. The fan would spin for a second, then slow down to a stop....then start spinning again....and so on.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

Probably to make the Aux Fans run constantly to help with low speed/idle performance.

Looks about right.

I'm concerned that this thing is causing the problem....Shouldn't bridging the two terminals in the picture fool the compressor to engage?

ps2cho · #14 05-14-2009, 10:40 PM

I swapped the Climate Control Unit/Relay and that fixed it!!

Why would a relay with the same PN# have a different pin layout and some sort of "cap" on top of it?

Is that strange?

Either way that fixed it and the A/C is working great!

Cal Learner · #15 05-15-2009, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

I swapped the Climate Control Unit/Relay and that fixed it!!

Why would a relay with the same PN# have a different pin layout and some sort of "cap" on top of it?

Is that strange?

Either way that fixed it and the A/C is working great!

Good news, and not a moment too soon to enjoy those toasty summer days. Was it the KLIMA relay you're talking about, p/n 002-545-13-05, that took care of it? If so, the EPC doesn't show any change in part num for your car, so I can't imagine why the pin layout would be different. When the OVP underwent a pin change (5-pin, then 7 then 9), each of those was given a new p/n. That's odd. Are you certain you got the correct relay?

I'm still studying your first photo in post #9 to try to understand what the non-standard wiring and components are all about. Does the low fan speed stay on all the time that key is on? If that's what's happening, that could have been accomplished much more easily than by wiring up two new components that don't belong there (the ones closest to the left inner fender). The other thing that puzzles me, is what are the two wire leads coming off the harness that were originally connected to the red hi-pressure switch now connected to? Anything? And what's up with the yellow wire? Is it connected to anything? I think I'd want to pull out the non-standard components and return the circuit to its original design, but that's just me. Anyway, nice job, and a nice looking 260E, and only 82K on the odo. Wow!