I have a 1989 300TE with the M103 in it, I ordered everything I need to get the timing chain and oil pump chain replaced except for the special tool that Mercedes says you need for attaching the master link.

Is there anything I can use or any homemade tools that I can make so I do not have to order the Mercedes tool or will I have to put the order in for the Mercedes piece.

Or is there anyone in the Houston area that has the tool that I could borrow to get these two chains done, I hate to ask but I am in a bit of a rush to get the work done.

thank you

A bodywork dolly and a basic bodywork hammer will do the job. Two ball peen hammers will work in a pinch. Use one as an anvil and smack the protruding pins with the flat of the other hammer.

You are simply trying to "peen" the ends of the pin to prevent the link from sliding free. You don't want to smash the link solid as that will create a "kink" in the chain.

Tom W. has a post with pics over on the "Vintage" board I believe. If not then check the DIY section.

I will go to the vintage board and try to find it but in case I don't I have another question (maybe two)


do you hold the body dolly (or second hammer) on the back of the timing chain and hit the pin with the hammer? and if that is a yes (that was my understanding) then I hit the protruding pins with the flat of the hamer, but am I trying to hit the pins dead on or am I trying to hit the edges of the pins to get them to roll?

Yup, use the dolly as an anvil. Hit the pins flat on, one at a time. You are trying to "swell" the ends. If you try to round the edges (and you'd be a much better hammer man than I am!) you will more than likely ding up the outer link and create the kink I warned you against.

Start with a light rap and work the impact force up as needed. You don't want to split the end but you do want to "mushroom it.

You are not creating a "pressure" joint but simply trying to stop the link from sliding off the pins. There is no lateral pressure on the link so it's not like you are creating a solid joint.

You could always check with h-townbenzoboy (or something like that) here on the board (do a "user search"). He's in the Houston area and he could probably hook you up with the crimper.

Why did you change the timing chain? The chain is short and really doesn't have any stretch problems unlike the longer V8's.

Anyway, the chain should have some with two small circlips to lock the chain together.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

The mileage on the car is at 137,000 miles and I had some other things that needed to be done so I wanted to do this since I would have it apart, I also took the lower timing cover and oil pan off due to some pretty bad oil leaks and was told that it might be a good idea to change the chain that goes to the oil pump also since it cost about 35 dollars extra.

I don't know what the chances of losing the lower are, I never heard of it being an issue but I do know that with my luck, and the fact that I already had it apart all the way down to that chain that I will get the car together drive it for about 5,000 miles and something will happen to it.

dka-66, instead of using some Rube Goldberg method to peen the master link of your new timing chain I recommend borrowing the proper tool somewhere, somehow. The last thing you need to happen is for the master link to come apart and trash the engine.

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Fred Hoelzle

That would be a special order chain only.

..and I agree w/Fred ..get the tool . it takes an experienced guy to do an acceptable chain peening w/o it........... .

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A Dalton

Yeah, I think I am going to wait until I can get the proper tool, I would definitely feel better about (especially if the wife takes it out)...

thank you for the advice.

>>

Yeah, they can break anything.

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A Dalton

Like my friend's wife who kept adding oil on a GMC truck because the oil pressure needle didn't read "full"...... She wound up with a hydraulic lock but luckily didn't crack the block or do any long term damage.....

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-tp


1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition

WOW Now that is bad......Even my wife is smarter then that




Now, as far as the Master Link Press go's I need to find someone in or around Houston that can help a brother out (Hint, Hint.....I have money)

....Seriously, I tried to contact some people on the rent list but they are out of state so I am not sure is they would be up for it..... I looked up the price on the tool and it was 290.00 dollars and it looked like I needed to also buy an adapter with I think was about 50 or 60 dollars, that's a lot of money for a tool I will only use once (unless we get another 1980-1990 300 with the m103 in it.

I was also wondering if I could take the chains to an independent garage and have them press them and then put them on like you would for a lot of Ford and Chevy's...... Like when you get a timing kit for a Ford Mustang and it would come with the cam gear (sprocket, cog, or what have you) and you put the chain on the crank and then you put the chain on the cam gear and slid it in place...... I could do this with each of the chains, just do the timing first and the oil pump second.

.....does this sound doable.