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  #1  
Old 06-08-2009, 12:10 PM
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I did another fuel pressure test now that I have a new fuel accumulator in the line. The fuel pressure on the main line did not go over 4 Bar. I think I am going to close this chapter and competition and call it fuel pump problem. It's new so I called the vendor and this time they took my car's serial number. Guess what, I had the wrong pump all along! A whole year of misery and all it was is the wrong part.
Thanks guys for your input.
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  #2  
Old 06-08-2009, 01:09 PM
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You may want to look at one more thing. I had a simular problem that I chased for a couple of months. There is another symptom going on at the same time which made it harder to sort out, but when I finally got to the bottom of it, all it required to fix it was adding a lock washer and tightening a nut. The car would be driving fine then would stall and be completely dead. After a minute or two it would come back to life start right up and run fine. A number of members pointed me toward loose battery cables, and when I checked them they were clean and tight. I never noticed that the B+ wire was attached to the positive cable with a nut until much later. When I did, I found out that it was very loose, not even finger tight. I took it off, cleaned the wire and the stud, and the spot on the inner fender where it connected to the rest of the wiring harness, then reassembled everything with new nuts and washers and lock washers and the problem has never returned. I still have the other stalling issue on initial startup but I think I'm closing in on it.
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  #3  
Old 06-08-2009, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bolomiester View Post
You may want to look at one more thing. I had a simular problem that I chased for a couple of months. There is another symptom going on at the same time which made it harder to sort out, but when I finally got to the bottom of it, all it required to fix it was adding a lock washer and tightening a nut. The car would be driving fine then would stall and be completely dead. After a minute or two it would come back to life start right up and run fine. A number of members pointed me toward loose battery cables, and when I checked them they were clean and tight. I never noticed that the B+ wire was attached to the positive cable with a nut until much later. When I did, I found out that it was very loose, not even finger tight. I took it off, cleaned the wire and the stud, and the spot on the inner fender where it connected to the rest of the wiring harness, then reassembled everything with new nuts and washers and lock washers and the problem has never returned. I still have the other stalling issue on initial startup but I think I'm closing in on it.
No chance it will be my battery terminals. The battery is new and I have disconnected and connected it over and over with no issues.
Right now I am going to wait on the fuel pump, install it, test the car then start another chapter in this stalling saga.
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  #4  
Old 06-08-2009, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by professor View Post
No chance it will be my battery terminals. The battery is new and I have disconnected and connected it over and over with no issues.
Right now I am going to wait on the fuel pump, install it, test the car then start another chapter in this stalling saga.
That's what I said. Every other car I can ever remember either had the B+ coming off the starter or molded into the main battery terminal. I never saw one that was nutted to a stud on the terminal before. Boy was I surprised when I finally saw it.
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Old 06-08-2009, 11:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by professor View Post
I did another fuel pressure test now that I have a new fuel accumulator in the line. The fuel pressure on the main line did not go over 4 Bar. I think I am going to close this chapter and competition and call it fuel pump problem. It's new so I called the vendor and this time they took my car's serial number. Guess what, I had the wrong pump all along! A whole year of misery and all it was is the wrong part.
Thanks guys for your input.
I am of the opinion that taking a Bosch injected vehicle to a dealer or indie is a mugs game. Most of the dealers and indies in my city send the cars with injection problems to a Bosch franchised injection specialist. These guys only do one thing - Bosch injections. They have all the technological equipment and know how - inherently more knowledge than the average mechanic.

A full service, system adjustment, system clean-out, and diagnosis costs around $ 150.00 at the Bosch specialist. He will then inform you of suss items. AND they know exzactly what they are doing.

Haphazardly trying to guess what is going wrong with a KE injection system with a multitude of expensive individual parts can lead to an expense much more than the sum of the problem as indicated at the start of this thread.

At least the professor has replaced do much on the injection system that he should have no real problem for years - caveat - after it is tuned properly with the correct equipment.
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  #6  
Old 06-09-2009, 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Ivanerrol View Post
I am of the opinion that taking a Bosch injected vehicle to a dealer or indie is a mugs game. Most of the dealers and indies in my city send the cars with injection problems to a Bosch franchised injection specialist. These guys only do one thing - Bosch injections. They have all the technological equipment and know how - inherently more knowledge than the average mechanic.

A full service, system adjustment, system clean-out, and diagnosis costs around $ 150.00 at the Bosch specialist. He will then inform you of suss items. AND they know exzactly what they are doing.

Haphazardly trying to guess what is going wrong with a KE injection system with a multitude of expensive individual parts can lead to an expense much more than the sum of the problem as indicated at the start of this thread.

At least the professor has replaced do much on the injection system that he should have no real problem for years - caveat - after it is tuned properly with the correct equipment.
Hmm I never thought of that myself. I may actually do what you said and take my wagon in that has idle issues. Thanks Ivan!
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  #7  
Old 06-09-2009, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Hmm I never thought of that myself. I may actually do what you said and take my wagon in that has idle issues. Thanks Ivan!
Is your problem still the miss at idle?
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  #8  
Old 07-09-2012, 07:11 PM
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Ouch

Quote:
Originally Posted by professor View Post
I did another fuel pressure test now that I have a new fuel accumulator in the line. The fuel pressure on the main line did not go over 4 Bar. I think I am going to close this chapter and competition and call it fuel pump problem. It's new so I called the vendor and this time they took my car's serial number. Guess what, I had the wrong pump all along! A whole year of misery and all it was is the wrong part.
Thanks guys for your input.
I am going to assume your issue is fixed.

For others having this nagging issue.

* I suggest you give the throttle body chamber and Idle Air Control Valve a good cleaning.

* The signal to start - run the fuel pump goes through the OVP relay, which has been superseded due to random thermal failure issues.

* The fuel pump relay has on many models been superseded three times due to random thermal failure issues.

* The Crank position sensor can experience thermal failures that match your symptoms.

* Try measuring system voltage, perhaps the charging circuit or battery is so weak that it can't operate the electronics correctly. Failing batteries cause no end of havoc, and the notion that just because it took a charge and started the car must mean that the battery is good is false. Test it to be sure

Here are some rather odd issues that have happened to me many times, and could match your symptoms.

Owner of a 1991 300E and looking for a cliff.

103 Stalling and not starting when warm...

Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum - View Single Post - 190E 2.6: While running/driving, engine "stalls", tach dies, BUT.....

MBWorld.org Forums - View Single Post - Help! My 190E 2.6 keeps stalling when hot!

As a last resort, you can read the Epic Saga "stalling thread", it's over 194 pages long.
Stalling Again - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum



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Last edited by whunter; 07-09-2012 at 07:23 PM.
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