I am having troubles with my car starting consistently.
Sometimes the motor will crank over and not start, it will sputter mildly (kinda like small caughs) and I will have to floor the gas pedal (its EFI , WTH?) After about 10 - 15 seconds of having the pedal floored, it caugh faster and faster until it starts up and revs out. If I do not floor the gas pedal, the motor
simply will not start.
Ther are no check engine lights to aid in diagnosing other than a upshift delay and also a have no check engine lights currently but I just cleared a code 21 and code 25 that have not come back on in a days worth of driving

The codes are
25 Upshift Delay
21 Purge switchover valve circuit open or circuit short
I did some research on both of these codes, they didnt look like the bad guys....

Thanks for reading

James

I failed to mention that the intermittent issue is that sometimes, the motor will fire right up. Having warmed up the car or driven for a long time does not seem to be a factor, it so far appears to be random.

Possible OVP relay.

And 25 is not shift delay.it is possible ECU..which could fit OVP

__________________
A Dalton

+1 OVP.

Also curious as to the condition of your harness.

Jonathan

__________________
Blue Ridge Mercedes
Jonathan Hodgman
http://www.blueridgemb.com/
Enthusiast Service, Restoration & Tuning.
Follow Us on Facebook!
Located in the Atlanta area
Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines.
Mercedes Repair Atlanta

I did a search on OVP relay, did not find any results, what does OVP stand for?

Also, I thought that 25 is the upshift delay fault according to this chart.

The harness does seem to be in good condition though I did spot one section at the firewall behind the engine with I believe 3 wires that had some cracks, I need to track these down and replace or repair them...I have a picture attached of a cut into section of harness showing healthy wires.

Thanks for the replies

There is no way OVP did not come up on a Search..there are enough OVP relay post in there to fill a NYC phone book.
Here is 500 post for openers...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=4071968

Post #4
1994 e-320 codes where to start

..an go look at your code chart again...Shift Delay is CODE 26

__________________
A Dalton

You are right,

It was the upshift code, I gave the wrong number. It read code 26
And thank you for the link there is a ton of info on the relay, sounds like it is the problem, although I have not had the ABS light come on. I am reading more about the OPV and will likely order one tonight.

Thanks

I ahve an idea for a quick diagnosis of the OVP relay, can I just remove the fuse (which i checked and is fine) from the relay and try and start it and see if the syptoms are the same?
Will this damage anything?

Drive the car for a few days, check again.

Jonathan

__________________
Blue Ridge Mercedes
Jonathan Hodgman
http://www.blueridgemb.com/
Enthusiast Service, Restoration & Tuning.
Follow Us on Facebook!
Located in the Atlanta area
Specializing in all pre and post merger AMG's including Hammers and DOHC M117 engines.
Mercedes Repair Atlanta

Tested again, code 11 came back on pin 14... code 5 has not came back since replacing the brake switch.

I have been researching Code 11 on Pin 14 for quite a while now and seem to be chasing my tail. I have yet to find a single post where someone had this code and what the remedy or even procedure to troubleshooting it was. Does anyone know where to start with this?

Cod 11 is no CTP sw sig present at N4/1 module , so you want to look at the harness goint to throttle actuator assembly..as long as you are sure the cable is not sticking and you have slack at idle [ which you said you had]
Archieves.- EA Harness.

__________________
A Dalton

Right you are.

I Removed the ETA, cut open the loom, and found cracked wires, exposed wires green wire ect. I went through THIS lengthy procedure and re wired the ETA. Fires right up now, no more lengthy 15 second starts. No surge, BUT what is strange now is that my idle is at 1800 RPMs... which is much higher than before the ETA rewire also when I rev it out a little in P, it sloooowly comes back down to the high idle...... ie I rev it out to 3500, it takes about 5 secs to drop back down to 1800.... any Ideas? I will research in the meantime.

Thanks much for the diagnostic help Arthur, that was some nasty wire and definitely at fault.


Job notes: IMO, A dremmel with a cutting disk is the best for removing the pin housing, its ugly at the end but I used a nice thickly insulated 18 g wire, so the housing would not close tight anyways. I wrapped it with allot of high temp tape and bought a wiring harness housing from the parts store. Also I am a noob solder artist, but I found tinning the ends of the new wire before putting them into the circuit board made it much easier than ramming in the bare wire.

that's really alot of screwing around with a simple problem...what?

Screwing around ????

It's called good, thought out, Diagnostics Procedure, Bevis.
...or is it Buthead?


Which one ??? I know it's one or the other .

__________________
A Dalton