In all fairness, one can't expect an AC system to cool off the car in just a few minutes when it has been setting in the sun for an hour. Most of our trips are short run so we suffer. On freeway trips the AC works satisfactorily. Out here, SHADE is our friend so we always try to find a shaded spot to park.
Anziani

Those fold-up, foil backed windshield/back window covers work too ...see a lot of them in use in the Parking lots where people work and there is no shade...
You use them and just crack a couple of windows for cross vent exhaust.
It is also good to put the ac ON , fan low , windows open for the first mile.

That exhaust the cabin heat and allows the evap to get good and cold before you start blowing hot air across it.

Just a method of getting max pull down in a short time frame.

If you don't use the covers and you park for a long time, try to park where the sun will be hitting the car from the side..the windshield and back window on some cars is not as tinted as the side ones.

Common Sense stuff..................

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A Dalton

Another thing that helps is, when you park the car, to open your hood, or at least pop it to the safety release, to relieve some of the underhood engine compartment heat. When you stop the motor, all that underhood heat proceeds to heat-soak everything in there, and all that heat load is just one more thing the A/C must overcome before it gets to its best operating point.

Try it - you'll like it. I'm in Bakersfield, and we get it almost as as bad as you guys in Palm Springs.

Actually the best A/C I ever had was in a '77 Mustang II. It would positively freeze your keister off even when it was 110 with 95% humidity (this was in Texas/Oklahoma).

Yes..I agree..and another reason to have a manual aux fan switch. you can blow that under-hood heat right out of there.

Ever notice tha on some of the Asian cars , the aux fan runs a few min after the car is turned off ???

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A Dalton

Interesting thread. Read through it all.

Arthur -- I am unfamiliar with his engine, so for my M103, can I still trick the fans to kick in on high once the engine is up to operating temperature? The blue sensor would be the 3rd sensor from the back of the head, correct? It looks the same as posted earlier...but just want to be sure it will do the same thing before I started unplugging things while the engine is running.

Also just curious, why does the car have to be at operating temperature before unplugging it?

I am less than satisfied with my A/C performance as well and wanted to see how much the high aux fan would improve performance.
...well either way I'd like to do it as any boost would be great.
Do you happen to have a parts list needed for the correct resistor to get the system to run in high all the time?

Much appreciated. This thread made my head hurt overall. Sorry to bump it

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Getting high fan for the a/c uses a relay to by-pass the speed dropping resistor. Don;t confuse that resistor with the little resistor we use to lower the blu sensor. Lowing the blu sesnors value will not get you a high fan with a/c ..that is a different mod.

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A Dalton

Sorry, yes that is what I meant. Any parts list for the relay? I searched, but didn't find it. Only that it was "done".

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

Radio shack has a nice standard 12V/40A relay for $6/7...

What you do is take the single wire off the R15 dropping resistor behind the headlamp and use that at a relay to trigger the relay [ term 85/coil]
Ground the other coil terminal to complete the coil circuit [ 86]

Now , use the power contacts of the relay [ 30 and 87] as a 12v power feed from the battery to 30 and 87 goes to the R15 2 wire side . Put a fuse in the bat feed line to relay [ 30A ] ...use heavy wire for this line..
That's it. Now , when the high side pressure sw at the reciever/drier closes and calls for low fan , that sig triggers your new relay instead of the dropping resistor, and the relay BY-PASSES that R15 ...so you wind up with high fan for ac instead of factory low speed...that's all.
All other circuits stay the same ..

Some guys just jumper the R15, but that fails real quick b/c the factory wiring for low fan circuit is too small to be running a HIGH fan/s current draw... see them burnright up ..[ but the addition of the simple relay/circuit will take that extra load/draw needed to run the fan/s on HIGH.]
You can also jumper R15... IF you double up the wire from the low fan relay to the single side of R15, and then put a high fan relay in place of the low fan relay. That is more work and cost, but also works.
Either way does away with the dropping resistor R15, which is what gives the fans their low speed.
If you are in moderate climates , low fan is adequate..

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A Dalton