I just picked up an 89 300TE with leather seats and the the lumbar option for the front seats. I want to install them and all the other leather seats in my MB tex 1990, questions:

1. I'm assuming that the lumbar seats work with the vac pump/central door lock system. Do I need to swap the unit in the 90 with the 89 as well?

2. What is the easy way to take the 2nd row seat backs out?

3. The side bolsters of the leather front seats out of the 89 seem larger than my 1990. Is this possible?

Thanx for the help.

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03 CLK430 Cabrio 211K Pweter Silver/ Oyster Leather
90 300SEL 214k Pearl Black/ Alto Grey/Black Leather

Prior: 85 190E, 88 300TE, 89 300TE, 90 300E 2.6, 90 300TE, 92 300E 2.6, 91 and 93 300SL, 87 Ferrari Mondial Cabrio

now that's a hell of a question....as I have a 1990 300TE with mb-tex. I far prefer the the mb-tex to leather. why would you want to do that?

not only that, I don't think you can do that kind of swap. I believe my 1990 300TE is totally stock, not one option on it. No heated seats, no adjustable lumbar support, no 4-Matic, no nothing..base model I reckon.
I have gone through the owners manual and realized that this car that I have is so base that it may have been a demo at one time...I dig it...it's so stupidly simple MB that I feel it's where it's where I should start with these things. The one thing I will state is the MB-Tex is so far more outstanding to leather that it defies logic. Leather sucks....what a pain in the ass....this MB-Tex is outstanding...my car is 20 years old and the interior looks like leather without any sign of wear at all....it's truth.....so you can all have your leather, my wifes BMW has leather with cracks and bullcrap
all over the place....screw leather interiors if you have MB-Tex available....

cliffmac has an interesting opinion, ...

I've had about a dozen 124 cars, from new to 20years old, from fully-loaded 300TE 4matic to base 300d, and about half-and-half leather/tex.

I won't even consider buying a 'tex car, leather or forget it. The 'tex is comfortable, expecially compared with the early (pre-'90?) leather, that early leather was pretty tough. The later leather is nice and soft and will only crack if you seriously neglect or abuse it, ... an annual cleaning/treatment is all it requires. The later leather breathes and is more comfortable than tex. Ironically it is as difficult to find 'tex that is un-cracked as it is to find leather that is un-cracked, once the 'tex cracks or wears through it is toast. The padding also comes out in the front of the ribs.

Anyway, to the orignal question, and away from whether someone doesn't understand your choice:

The orthopedic seats might have larger bolsters, IIRC my '91 TE with ortho-seats did, and softer leather inserts. It is normal for the outer leather panels to be a lower grade = stiffer than the inner/perforated seat panels.

The installation will be a big job for working ortho seats. The vacuum pump in the ortho-seat car is different, and wired differently IIRC. Also, mine went bad when about 4years old, couldn't find a used one on a national search database, had to buy new for around $450 (1996 dollars). You will also have to run a new hose to the seat controls, there is a different hose/manifold to the pump also.

Heated seats too I hope, also a job, you will need the controller/wires/switches/center-console wood.

Much more comfortable seats with better foam and shape. If it all works, worth the upgrade. Test all of the airbags first and the controller (the thing with the thumbwheels) as any leak will cause the pump to run continuously and burn out (happened to mine). I don't remember the thumbwheel controllers being very expensive.

Consider using the leather door panels also, although a pre-'90 donor wouldn't have the Zebrano door panels so maybe not. Leather steering wheel and shifter is a welcome upgrade also.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

1. Vacuum pump is unique to the lumbar seats. I recall it has an extra outlet.

2. Dunno.

3. Not that I've noticed....


Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

2] Rear Seat Removal
Each seat on the door side has a pin secured by a thin metal clamp. Remove the clip and be careful not to drop it down into the rear wheel covering. On inside where both seats meet each other, there is a plastic strip. Slide it up and remove the three screws.

1] Vac for seats
I couldn't find anything in the124 Repair Manual, but not to say it's not there. I'm curious how the system does get its vac. I suspect, as you do, that it gets vac from door locks pump [under right rear seat].

The seats use pressure, not vacuum

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Please explain....

The seats have 11 bladders that are inflated via the selector and pressure wheels (controls at the side of the seat). The air pressure comes from the combination (locking) pump.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Pressure rather than Vac [makes sense] understood. And supplied by the door lock system. Is there any reference in the 124 CD Manual? What's basic supply hose routing?

Pressure / Vac Related question...
ACC appears to use one of a dual chamber reservoir in right front fender. What does other chamber feed?

No idea, but the engine vacuum is separate from the central locking vacuum/pressure and seat pressure, only enters the cabin for ACC and headlamp leveling.

__________________

Gone to the dark side

- Jeff