This is on an '04 Mercedes. I've tried a dead blow hammer from the back but there isn't enough room behind the rotor to get a good whack at it. I've sprayed PB Blaster to the hub. I heated the hub area with a propane torch and then spayed Freeze-Off at it. All the while I have that old time brake drum puller attached. Is there a heavy duty version if that puller? It says to only finger tighten the center screw so it won't do a whole lot. Any other ideas?

You want to heat the rotor itself, not the hub. Heat the rotor nice and good, then hit it around the hat portion nice and hard with a sledge, it will likely come loose.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Clean the flange area with a wire wheel attached to a drill. Then spray penetrating oil on the flange - rotor area. Smack the flat part of the rotor with a large hammer, where the bolt holes are but not on the actual hole area, and it should come off. Keep the puller on too.

Oh yea, make sure the parking brake is off too.

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Regards

Warren

Currently 1965 220Sb, 2002 FORD Crown Vic Police Interceptor

Had 1965 220SEb, 1967 230S, 280SE 4.5, 300SE (W126), 420SEL

ENTER > = (HP RPN)

Not part of the in-crowd since 1952.

You do not hit the rotor from behind.
You smack the hole mounting surface and Bounce it off the axle. [ as others have posted]

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A Dalton

After a lot more torching, freezing and hammering it finally came off. 1 down 3 to go.

With the proper smacking, you shouldn't have to heat the rotor.

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Don't Chrome them; polish them

You'd be surprised. I've pounded with a sledge for 20 mins before....then I heated it, smacked it a few times, and it came off.

The heat breaks the rust bonds and expands the meal, and off it comes. Why not heat it?

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

atikovi, suggest installing one lug bolt at least by a few threads so when the rotor finally releases it doesn't fly off and damage something in the vicinity. It may help if you wire brush the joint between the rotor and the hub. Apply a thin coating of Never Seez on that area when installing the new rotors. It will make future removal of wheels & rotors much easier.

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Fred Hoelzle

Put some ceramic lube on the hub.


New rotor looks a lot better.