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  #31  
Old 11-18-2001, 09:14 PM
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Location: Gainesville FL
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OK... new idea... forget the electricals they are working right. The reason you kill the car when you put the relay in is that you have a massive mixture problem. I knew something was wrong with the ability to run after the fuel pump shut off. It isn't running on residual pressure, it is running after the motor throws off all the extra fuel once the pump is off and has cranked a while.

You should pull one injector from the motor with the line attached, run the fuel pump. There should be no fuel flowing from the injector (with engine not running). If there is then you are massively out of adjustment or the piston is stuck up in the fuel distributor.

Your plugs are probably soaked and you should change the oil.

Once you have the thing cleaned up try cranking and adding the relay. The idea is to introduce fuel when not running and see how it reacts. Do you know how to do a base adjustment of fuel mixture?
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #32  
Old 11-18-2001, 09:29 PM
scuba
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Steve,

First of all, thanks for your replay,

I never did a main set-up on the fuel distributor. I have a CD service manual, but don't know if it covers a set-up for that.
If you have any pointers for that, I sure would appreciate the help.

Gunter
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  #33  
Old 11-19-2001, 02:34 PM
Turbo240
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Gunter, I believe you are off on a tangent with your problem.
Your fuel pump should not run when you turn on the ignition, other wise yu will fill the engine with fuel. Find out why the pump is running when you energize the ignition, and you will be well on your way to fixing the problem. Maybe a sticky piston within the fuel distributor or a badly aligned or bent air sensor plate.

Just my $.02 worth.
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  #34  
Old 11-19-2001, 04:43 PM
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Whenever the mixture is massively wrong such as when you change fuel distributors you should remove the injection lines and dab the fuel from each hole with a clean cloth. Jump the fuel pump relay and watch the fuel in the threaded holes. I am presuming that fuel will flow, it shouldn't as the engine has no air flow.

If it is flowing use the three millimeter allen adjustment. back the screw off (push down on the adjuster and seek the actual screw adjustment and move counterclockwise) until fuel no longer flows. Adjust it again clockwise till it flows and back off till it JUST stops. Now reassemble and try. Final adjustment is done first by ear to achieve good running and then electronically using the duty-cycle of the frequency valve at terminal 3 of the diagnostic socket.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
Gainesville FL
Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #35  
Old 11-19-2001, 04:49 PM
scuba
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Thanks Steve and Rob,

I'll try to work on my car today and let you know what the outcome is.

Thanks again

Gunter
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  #36  
Old 11-23-2001, 07:24 PM
scuba
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Back to the electrical again

I checked the fuel distributor and everything seems to be in order, so I had another electronic technician to take a look at my car and he came up with the following.
When we start the vehicle, the current on the frequency valve measures 9.2 volt.
We have no voltage from the lambda supply relay pin # 1 to any connectors to the lambda control unit. We know that # 1 pin from the lambda supply relay goes to pin # 8 on the lambda control, but the schematics I have don't show exactly which one is the # 8 pin on the lambda.
I also need to know if the # 1 wire from the lambda relay goes straight to the lambda control or not, since I really can't tell with all the wires under the dash.
If the wire connects straight to the lambda control, can I run a new power wire to the lambda and disconnect the old one ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Gunter
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  #37  
Old 12-21-2001, 12:03 PM
scuba
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Steve,

I tried yesterday to adjust the fuel distributor with the three millimeter Allen wrench.
I jumped the fuel pump relay, and even if I turn the screw for each cylinder all the way out, there is always fuel running out of the connecting holes from the
distributor to the in injectors. More fuel comes out when I push down the air flow plate but I can not stop the fuel flow all the way.
I also checked the control piston on the back of the fuel distributor and it seems to be fine since I can take the piston out and move it in the cylinder with no problems.
Is there any place ( maybe your shop ) where I can send my fuel distributor and get it checked out or adjusted ?
Or is there anything else I can do to get the fuel flow stopped when the
air-flow plate is not activated ?

Thanks for your help

Gunter
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  #38  
Old 12-21-2001, 02:14 PM
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There is only one mixture adjustment. It is in between the dist and the airflow plate. All it adjusts is the starting position for fuel delivery by altering the fulcrum lever point. This adjustment must be run counterclockwise till the fuel stops. This has to be done on your car (or at least on your airflow meter.
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Steve Brotherton
Continental Imports
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Bosch Master, ASE Master, L1
33 years MB technician
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  #39  
Old 01-09-2002, 10:25 PM
scuba
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Talking

I thought this day would never come!!!!!

My Benz finally started today after exactly 3 months and a new fuel distributor.

Thank you very much everybody who helped me in this forum, including Benzmac, M.B.DOC and Stevebfl.
And a very special thanks to Gillybenztech.
I came real close to give up on my car and let the Mercedes Dealership have a shot at it, but he persisted that I give it one more try............ and it worked.

Thanks again everybody

Gunter
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