So which brand of oil for M103 to pick from? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dennish · #16 10-07-2009, 12:47 PM

Are not the diesel oils only recommended for the older m103s? I have been assuming that my 1992 m103 should have the gas engine oil. Any input?

pawoSD · #17 10-07-2009, 01:02 PM

Diesel oils work fine, in fact they are better in the M103 engines due to the style of cam shaft vs. modern cars. They do better with a zinc additive in the oil, which modern gasser oils do not have.

#18 10-07-2009, 01:17 PM

I am impressed at the responses in this thread. The most important thing that the OP needed to know was the TYPE of oil that he should be using and that came out in this thread.

Thanks to the information available today, the zinc additive and non roller cam followers is now almost household knowledge among car guys. Just a few years ago when I started explaining this I got nothing but a blank stare.

For the OP, not only is the zinc additive, but also the added detergents in the Rotella/Delo/Delvac type oils are very healthy for the M103.

dennish · #19 10-07-2009, 01:32 PM

didn't Mercedes change the design in the later years of the m103 so that the zink additve is not necessary - and if that's the case what year did that change take place

mbzman · #20 10-07-2009, 01:43 PM

Where can I find Mobil Delvac in Canada? Shell Rotella can be found locally at Walmart and Canadian Tire, but I've yet to see the Delvac.

pawoSD · #21 10-07-2009, 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mbzman

Where can I find Mobil Delvac in Canada? Shell Rotella can be found locally at Walmart and Canadian Tire, but I've yet to see the Delvac.

Don't worry about it. Just run the Rotella, it is cheaper anyways.

#22 10-07-2009, 03:40 PM

Yes, the last time I was getting oil for a change in my 300E they were out of Delo. I never blinked an eye while I was grabbing for the Rotella jugs.

#23 10-07-2009, 03:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dennish

didn't Mercedes change the design in the later years of the m103 so that the zink additve is not necessary - and if that's the case what year did that change take place

I have never heard of an M103 with a roller cam. Maybe someone else has heard of such a thing.

Even if they added roller lifters, these oils work great in an M103. Not only do they have very good base stock, but the additives for soot dispersal keep the inside of a gas engine SQUEAKY clean.

My M103 just earned its half million kilometer badge and it's never seen anything except these oils, almost always Delo. The bottom has never been apart and it still holds great oil pressure, sounds great and uses no oil.

Mike D · #24 10-07-2009, 04:02 PM

Man, THIS oil thread is boring! Usually by the second page we have people talking about other people's mommas!

Where did all the hayta's go?

Great advice given on this thread.

Maybe I should start a thread with why the right wingers prefer using R-12 in conjunction with Zerex antifreeze and DOT4 brake fluid? That'll get us all going!

ps2cho · #25 10-07-2009, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LarryBible

I have never heard of an M103 with a roller cam. Maybe someone else has heard of such a thing.

Even if they added roller lifters, these oils work great in an M103. Not only do they have very good base stock, but the additives for soot dispersal keep the inside of a gas engine SQUEAKY clean.

My M103 just earned its half million kilometer badge and it's never seen anything except these oils, almost always Delo. The bottom has never been apart and it still holds great oil pressure, sounds great and uses no oil.

Impressive. I'd love to see that in both mine and keep these cars forever.

I wonder if it would clean up my 260E's valvetrain?

^ This is before I changed the oil...so its not quite as "red" now, but there is still that redish layer all over. If I scratch it with my finger it comes off.

pawoSD · #26 10-07-2009, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Impressive. I'd love to see that in both mine and keep these cars forever.

I wonder if it would clean up my 260E's valvetrain?

^ This is before I changed the oil...so its not quite as "red" now, but there is still that redish layer all over. If I scratch it with my finger it comes off.

My toyota had kindof a reddish tint like that on the upper end when I got it, it was run on an unknown dino oil....after a couple changes on Mobil 1 it was going away.....must be something in the oil....makes a red varnish.

I hope that cheap no-name looking oil filter has been replaced with a nice German one!

ps2cho · #27 10-07-2009, 11:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

My toyota had kindof a reddish tint like that on the upper end when I got it, it was run on an unknown dino oil....after a couple changes on Mobil 1 it was going away.....must be something in the oil....makes a red varnish.

I hope that cheap no-name looking oil filter has been replaced with a nice German one!

I don't use anything other than Bosch. For < $4/each its a no-brainer...

The women (wait what?)....did practically no maintenance on this car for what looks like a good 30k+ miles. I think the oil was at least 9k miles old when I got it. You could fit Everest through the gaps in the spark plugs...that's how old they were...

Looks like I got leaky stem seals on this car too....I'm debating whether I should first swap the oil to a correct one (I'm currently running 20-50) or just do the stem seal repair on it then change oil? Not as much a price issue as a time issue....But wasting buying the oil to have it burn up is a price issue. Any thoughts? IIRC it took me like 3-4hours to do the valve stem seals on my 300TE a year or two back.

#28 10-08-2009, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ps2cho

Impressive. I'd love to see that in both mine and keep these cars forever.

I wonder if it would clean up my 260E's valvetrain?

^ This is before I changed the oil...so its not quite as "red" now, but there is still that redish layer all over. If I scratch it with my finger it comes off.

If that engine were mine, I'd change oil and filter using Delo, then after about 1,000 miles, get it piping hot and change it again, allowing the oil to drain overnight. With this engine in the 124 chassis, I would also raise the right rear wheel about six inches while it's draining. With the car setting on a flat floor it leaves a few ounces of old oil in the pan. After that I would place a pretty good bet that when you pull the valve cover it will look squeaky clean.

compu_85 · #29 10-08-2009, 08:32 AM

You might want to try some Auto RX. It worked great in my 360 Dodge truck. Oil pressure improved after the treatment

-Jason

mbzman · #30 10-09-2009, 03:03 PM

Just out of curiosity is there any one grade you guys stick to? I can only find Synthetic Rotella in 5W-40 and 0W-40, no synthetic in 15W-40 unless I'm missing something.