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  #16  
Old 11-10-2009, 06:20 AM
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NoNvMBZ, consider taking your car to a local indie and having the drain plug removed and replaced. Would expect that an indie has faced this situation before and knows the remedy.

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  #17  
Old 11-10-2009, 12:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoNvMBZ View Post
I've already attempted that, heated it with torch too...
Not sure anything short of dynamite gets this plug out.
I don't know how it got stuck. It will be the last time I take it to anyone to change oil.
It got stuck because grease monkeys like to impact drain plugs back into the pans.

You could always heat the pan & plug, then use dry-ice or a can of upside-down air duster on the plug itself; it may contract enough to get loose. Never tried it myself, but then again I've got plenty of high-quality tools.

An indie is going to try the same things you're doing, only with bigger, better tools and while standing up. Having worked as an indie (removing my fair share of stuck plugs), I'd shoot it with some PB blaster or Deep Creep, let it sit for an hour or so, then grab the Irwin set and a long breaker bar.
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  #18  
Old 11-11-2009, 01:52 AM
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where do I find this PB Blaster or Deep Creep?

Haven't been able to locate the Irwins yet either, and I'm near Reno.

Thanks,
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  #19  
Old 11-11-2009, 05:32 AM
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Your easiest solution to remove oil from the engine is to get a suction oil changer. I bought mine at a marine supply house, they are available other places, and suction the oil out. In later models, MB specifies this method.

Here, for instance.

http://www.right-tool.com/lioilchpukit.html

or here

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/car+maintenance/oil+changes/multi+fluid+extractor.do
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2009, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NoNvMBZ View Post
where do I find this PB Blaster or Deep Creep?

Haven't been able to locate the Irwins yet either, and I'm near Reno.

Thanks,

Most parts stores carry all of that stuff (at least here they do). If not, try your local home depot or lowes. Bolt extractors & penetrants aren't specific to the automotive field.

As far as fluid extractors go, I'd look at the mightyvac - holds 8.8L. This one is hand pumped, but they do make one that runs on shop air:

http://www.restockit.com/The-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus-(MIT7201).html?source=froogle&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=comparsionshopping&Bvar5=100F1&Bvar6=100F1&Bvar7=100F1&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=MIT7201

I've never used one to extract oil (I have used them on other fluids), but that's because I had a lift and an oil catcher; much quicker.
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  #21  
Old 11-12-2009, 12:14 AM
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Thanks for that gentlemen, I have been using a pump to remove it, just not one that fancy, and that may be the way to go and just be done with all the brain damage and in the future climbing underneath.

Thanks,

Joe
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  #22  
Old 11-12-2009, 01:06 AM
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#%*"<# ,PLUG

'Had same problem with the Sump Drain Plug, FIRST time I touched it!
(AND I KNOW Who changed the oil the time before and used 150Ft Lbs to
torque down the drain plug...I'm a jus biding my time waiting to witness his DOWNFALL!)

Relief was provided when I soaked the drain plug area overnight (Twice) with
AeroKroil and then clamped what was left of the stub of the plug in the biggest
honking Vise Grips I could find...Tightened them down with another set of VG's...
'Slipped a 2.5 foot length of 1 1/2" Galvanized over the end of the ViseGrips and proceeded to LEVER...
It seemed like the Pan was gonna wrench off the bottom end of the block,BUT
FINALLY the plug backed out 1/3 turn and I was a free man again!

HOWEVER,The "Irwin's" should make short work of your difficulty.
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91 300E Oil leak & stuck drain plug-screenhunter_03-nov.-12-01.05.jpg  
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  #23  
Old 11-13-2009, 12:05 PM
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PB blaster is in most parts store, from AZ, kragen, napa, carquest. You can try "freeze off" it worked wonder on the exhaust manifold bolts. Spray every day for a week... "knock her loose" at carquest worked well too while salvaging some suspension spring at a junkyard in Utah once.
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  #24  
Old 11-17-2009, 02:02 AM
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Brilliant Call

This was the absolutely brilliant call, as when I got to the sender, and removed it, the plastic electronic connector that goes through the center, to the lead, and into the pan was just spinning around, the gasket was fine, but I have no idea how that plastic thing failed. But it is resolved, at least the leak and blow back is. Now on to the plug.

thanks,

Joe

Quote:
Originally Posted by long-gone View Post
Besides the pan gasket and rear main seal, a very common oil leak on an M103 that usually shows up as oil at the back/center of the pan is the oil level sender. It's a unit that bolts (2 bolts) into the oil pan just above and behind the oil drain plug on the drivers side. It uses an O-ring for a gasket. But, It's not just that o-ring that can leak. Where the wire plugs into it there is another small o-ring which I think just keeps water and dirt from the contacts but they sometimes develop leaks through the plastic casting of the electrical components. Oil senders are generally about $50 online.

When they leak the oil film is very thin from the unit but it gathers at the back of the pan. You'll be able to feel oil around and under it with your fingers. Clean it off good with brake kleener (careful of your eyes spraying under the car) and see if it quickly returns after a short drive. If you can trace a leak to the sender, replacing it (or the o-ring) is very easy but will require the oil to be drained. Which could be a problem if you can't get the drain plug out. The drain plugs are pretty accessible, if it's rounded, maybe just a big honkin' pair of vise grips clamped super tight could coax it?

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