Any rust on the lobes usually clears up after a few seconds of running.

__________________
Current cars:
2000 ML55 AMG, 174k miles
2003 C240 T-Modell, 202k miles
1995 S320, 207k Miles

if I use a engine building grease on the lobes that have surface rust and pre-oil the valve train and pistons for a few days, will that damage the engine?

the diesel looks better than the gas engine from what I observed, these won't have a chance to run for another 4 months so I am a little worried

would hate to have to buy new engines since these were both top notch plants less than 6 mos ago

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

I agree that the rust will burnish away during use. It's really a judgement call as to how much rust and pitting can be tolerated.

Well, the problem is, "surface" rust doesn't grow on the surface, it is oxygen that combined with metal, is porous and occupies more space, and therefore sticks above the original surface of the metal over what is a pit. This is the way it is on a magnified level. The question is, will the oil film remain intact over the pits, and is there enough "high metal" between the pits to carry the load, until such time as the whole thing evens out from wear? only a "line" along the cam is actually in contact with the cam follower at any given moment during operation, and the pounds per square inch along that line are spectacular. The oil film sort of "floats" the cam on the cam follower. If the metal was actually touching, it wouldn't last, no matter what kind of metal it was.

IMO, lube it well (even with assembly lube), run it, look at it in a hundred miles, and if it's OK, forget about it. If not, there was nothing you could have done to "fix" it after it happened.

__________________
86 560SL
With homebrew first gear start!
85 380SL
Daily Driver Project

http://juliepalooza.8m.com/sl/mercedes.htm

thanks for the advice

is there anything I should be doing now to stop it in its tracks for the 4 or 5 months till I can get an opportunity to get these fired up again?

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

I see a number of options, depending on how much trouble you want to go through and what is available to you.

- fill the cylinders and engine with oil as discussed above.
- remove the valve covers and slather the parts with grease, oil, or Fluid Film. Or better yet, use Safecoat if you can get your hands on it, which is specifically made to prevent rust on parts that are later lubed.
- place the engines in a humidity-controlled environment.
- bag the engine with dissicant.

I have an open 240D sitting in my garage and they will rust. Cold at night and the garage being uninsulated can warm up nicely during the day allowing for a nice film of water to lay on that cold steel. I spray them down with WD40 once a month and keep them covered with oily rags and old towels. That will keep the warm air from the cold steel and stop moisture from forming. The WD40 is a second line of defense. I went out and re-oiled mine today.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

more good advice

can I get Safecoat from any chain retailer or should I just order some online?

I could probably bag the engines but really cant get them into a climate controlled environment

I'll spray down the valvetrain with WD-40 and when I can, fill the cylinders with oil

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

You don't have to fill those cylinders with oil. Geepers, that would be a mess. Spray them good with WD40 and then stuff rags into the cylinders, spray it again over the rags and cover it up with a clean floor mat or old overcoat just to keep it from getting hit with warm air and to keep dirt and debris out of it also. Guaranteed to be bright and shinny in the spring, as bright and shinny as they were when you put it away.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

how do I stuff rags in there if the engines are completely intact?

spark plug holes can't be that big?

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

I thought you had an open engine, heads off. If not, spray WD 40 into each cylinder and replace with a spark plug (glo plug). You won't get rust in a closed engine because there is really no air flowing through it. Put the valve cover on it and cover it up the best you can and try to keep the humidity down. Everytime you bring in a snow ice coverd car with a warm engine, you are adding some slight heat and humidity. Water dripping on the floor from the car is a big factor. It is this warmth and humidity floating around your very cold garage that causes the problem. So cover it up with old cloth, rags, carpets or throw carpets or old overcoats, but keep it covered.

__________________
Junqueyardjim
Christianity, if false, is of no importance, and if true, of infinite importance. The only thing it cannot be is moderately important. C.S. Lewis



1983 Mercedes W123 240D 4 Speed 285,000 on the road with a 617 turbo, beautiful butter yellow, license plate # 83 240D INDIANA

2003 Jaguar Type X, AWD. beautiful, good mileage,
Mom's car, but I won't let her drive it!

the shop is sealed for the winter, so luckily it should be as controlled as I can hope for

I'll spray in WD-40

__________________
1992 850i 6 speed
1991 M3 S54B32 swap
2007 328iT/6 RWD sport wagon
1987 325E 330iZHP engine swap
2004 Vespa 200GT
1976 W115 240D getting a much bigger engine. 5.5L
1997 R129 SL600 5AT

Wait until you get a warm balmy day during the winter. The warm humid air will hit the cold metal and cover everything with dew. This happens once in a while in my garage. When that happens, everything is wet... my cars, tools, fastener collection...

An old school trick for an engine that was going to sit for a while was to pour a quart or two of good old fashioned trans fluid down the throttle to coat the intake valves/pistons/rings and turning the the engine over manually a few times. In your case, I'd remove the valve covers and pour a bit over all the valve train parts as well. It'll stop the rust and prevent any new stuff from forming.

As has been stated earlier, any fine surface rust will dissappear quickly once the engine runs for a bit - much like the rust on a brake rotor. You'll probably want to change your oil after a few hundred miles though, as there will be very tiny rust particles circulating through your engine.

I hate that. Why is it some metal smells like puke when it oxidizes? I've been tossing in the little silica packets that come with stuff in my tool cabinet(s) drawers and that seems to help a little...

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A.S.E Tech A1,A6,A7,A8 & MVAC 609 + EPA 608

Unless stated otherwise, any question I ask is about my greymarket 1985 380SEL.