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#1
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Anybody ever used "OEM" spring compressor?
![]() Picked this up from pepboys for $40. Anybody ever used this to compress w124 springs? If this will work, it sure beats paying $200+ for an aftermarket "MB" SC...
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k Last edited by whunter; 01-03-2010 at 01:55 PM. |
#2
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I don't think I would trust it vs the proper MB compressor.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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I've been using the Snap-On version of that for years on my W126s and it works great. I've lowered seven 560SECs and one 560SEL, so that's a lot of very heavy springs in and out. Hope you have an air driven impact gun - I've cranked these manually and it ain't fun at all!!
The MB looking flat disk unit is a little easier to put in place to start but the threads on that one are inside the center tube of the tool, making it much more difficult to lubricate them. I ALWAYS lubricate the threads before each use (wheel bearing grease). I ended up cutting the tuning fork looking piece shorter so that it wouldn't hit the inner fender when inserted in the front springs. My threaded rod was too long for 126 springs so that got shorted by an inch or so. I also rounded the corners on the threaded block so it fit much easier down through the hole in the fender for the front springs, but that's on a W126. See how it will fit on a W124. Also, I have a pair of 12" hemostats that I find makes it MUCH easier to reach inside the spring to set the hooks, hold the washers up out of the way for the fork installation, and retrieving the threaded rod after the spring is back in. Nice tool. If used carefully, like any spring compressor, it will do fine. I've use the $30 el-cheapo internal hook spring compressors and it was the threads that started to fail on them. Just keep an eye on them on this tool and you'll be fine.
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There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness." FrankenBenz: '87 560SEC with an '02 cammed LS6 and custom 4L60E. Bling: '87 560SEC, ported/polished, lowered Lisa: '87 560SEL, lowered |
#4
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Over the weekend I tried using that compressor on my 1991 300CE and I could not get it to work. The problem was after slipping the block with the hooks down into the coil, you could set one hook but not the other. There is no room to flip up the second hook. I also practiced on the new spring and could not attach the second hook.
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#5
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You don't need a spring compressor to remove W124 springs. Just lower the control arm slowly and you'll be fine. You will actually have to pry the spring off its perch. Do a search on my name - I've done it before and it's not scary at all.
Of course I cannot be held responsible for accidental decapitation.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#6
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Doesn't an alignment need to be done after bolting the control arm back on??
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#7
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The control arm doesn't need to be unbolted, just lowered. If you loosen the bushings prior to lowering it, allowing the bushings to move, you will indeed need an alignment afterwards.
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
#8
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Here's my thread, read it carefully: Possible to Remove W124 Lower Control Arm Without Spring Compressor?
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08 W251 R350 97 W210 E320 91 W124 300E 86 W126 560SEL 85 W126 380SE Silver 85 W126 380SE Cranberry 79 W123 250 78 W123 280E 75 W114 280 |
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