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#46
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Little guys under the hood doing anything would be awesome. Git your camera ready!
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William Weatherby |
#47
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Quote:
Well waited till dark and after dinner me and my cousin opened up hood to see if there was any arcing. We took off air filter housing and removed drivers side plug cover, no arcing. Decided to pull passengers side plug/wire cover off , absolutely no arcing. Was sure to wait till engine temp got to over 8O Celsius no arcing . Looked at the wires when at idle, and loaded engine in gear no arcing . I saw the 3 suppressor wires that dealer/ mechanic had said he changed, they were red colored caps so now at least I know which cylinders he thought might be suspect. Plug wires looked really good , even my cousin said he was surprised that after 17 years they were supple not dried or cracked or anything. No arcing at all Looking around engine compartment to get an idea if anything else was obviously wrong and we found a vertical plastic hose coming out of a bundle that went in to an L shaped black rubber hose that connected to what looked to him like an EGR valve that is aprox 8-10 inches in left hand corner in front of the throttle body. It is seen in the front left hand corner of the second photo of post #9 in http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w140-s-class/1493456-s420-sel-breaking-up-under-load.html In case the photo does not come thru I will describe it as best as I can. The part that the broken hose went in to was approx 1 3/4 inches in diameter and looks like a flying saucer . Well since the plastic hose was broken off about 1/4 inch from where it went in to the black rubber hose we pulled the broken plastic part out. There was not much play left in rubber hose but it seemed we were able to reverse the L shaped hose, and sorta stretch it and get it back on the valve. We thought we found the problem . Drove the car and it made no difference . My cousin was not sure that the stretched hose was making a good connection and allowing the vacuum to function, so we left the hose off the valve entirely and I drove home 25 miles. Car drove perfectly without hose attached at all, and did not exhibit any hesitation, when I got back to city upon aggressive accelleration. I did not expect it to ,as highway driving kept engine temperature around 60C and it usually only happens after 80 C is reached. It is possible that the repair we made stretched the hose so the vaccum could not function properly , but if that in case, is not the fact, then what is this valve that made no difference being unattached ? So no arcing, and since it is past midnight , I will buy a new L shaped hose and attach it tomorrow and hope that is the problem. It also is possible the 2 mechanics messing around in the engine compartment changing plugs ,and then rotors broke the hose/plastic piping . If so why put a useless vacuum line in a car ? Still lost |
#48
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It sounds like you are onto something.
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William Weatherby |
#49
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This is the correct photo. The part is to the right of the oil filler cover, and in the front to the left of the throttle body with a black vacuum hose coming out of the top of it.
It is round like a saucer . What is it called and what does it do? |
#50
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It's an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Most cars have them. They are easy to change.
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled) 1994 E420, 200,000+ miles 1995 E420, 201,000 miles |
#51
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OK. Now could a vacuum line broken to this EGR valve cause a hesitation upon accelleration when the car is warm and other problems ? |
#52
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Did you say it ran better with the vacuum line disconnected?
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William Weatherby |
#53
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It ran the same which was basically because I was doing highway driving and engine never gives me problem on highway or when engine remains cool.
Then today I put on new hose to EGR valve and drove around for 40 minutes in city traffic . Up hills and not a stall at all . Engine temp got to 98C and I drove up a 15% hill to really put it under load and it drove fine. Then I stopped for a cup of coffee and after 15 minutes started her up and without waiting 30 seconds, pulled away on a flat road, and it hesitated again at 84 Celsius . Drove for another 5 minutes and did not happen again . Stopped for a half hour and then drove for another 10 inutes No problem again. Stopped for dinner about 80 minutes and then drove it around again for another 10 minutes (temp near 80 C) no problems. Any way the EGR could have caused all my problems ? Anyone think the hose to the EGR all by itself , made it better and the computer has to relearn something thus the one time flat spot/ bogg down ? If so , which I hope is true, it cost me $700 for a 50 cent piece of hose! Last edited by PETERPNYC; 02-20-2010 at 09:19 PM. Reason: mre info |
#54
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This may help you to understand the EGR. It's #7 in the link below.
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled) 1994 E420, 200,000+ miles 1995 E420, 201,000 miles |
#55
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Emery please read my above post #53 which I have edited. My problems were not inspection emissions related but much more serious hesitation/ stalling problems that at least for the moment have improved tremendously, or gone away completely . ( I say this after only 5 quick trips , with one appearance of the problem) Simple question is can a broken hose ( loss of vacuum ) to the EGR cause those types of problems. Can anyone answer that question and no more info needed. |
#56
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I think you found the "something simple".
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William Weatherby |
#57
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I think it's possible, but you said that the problem hasn't entirely gone away or maybe not sure it's gone away. Maybe it's something entirely different like the ignition coil going bad. You're not getting any DTC's at all?
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled) 1994 E420, 200,000+ miles 1995 E420, 201,000 miles |
#58
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I can't see how this would cure it completely. The EGR is only active under part throttle conditions anyway and that vacuum line is not big enough to cause a big enough vacuum leak to cause your symptoms. Report again after you have driven it on a longer trip and with higher engine temps.
I have to ask: Are you sure you were in a truly dark area when you looked for the arcing? It has to be pitch black. My spark plug wires on my 93 400E were in very bad shape when I bought the car 4 1/2 years ago with about 125,000 miles it. They were arcing and the car ran poorly when one asked for acceleration from it (like yours). My 95 E420 had about 170,000 miles on it when I got it about 3 months ago and it's wires are absolutely rotten. I do not believe your wires could still be good if they are the original ones. Has it been established for sure if these wires have ever been replaced or not? It is a common misconception that these MB spark plug wires don't go bad because they are solid core (as opposed to carbon core wires which do go bad much more frequently). But even these solid core wires go bad because the insulation somehow for some reason slowly stops "insulating". I don't know why. I don't know if it's age related or miles related or both. Don't discount the spark plug wires yet. Another thing I'm wondering about now is the engine wire harness. It is a known problem of MBs of that time period. The insulation of the wires literally turns to dust but it's difficult to spot because the areas where the wires are exposed look fine. It's the areas that are the most hidden where the rot is the most pervasive. I think it has something to do with the fact that a more hidden area will keep moisture longer. This would need to be checked out by someone who is familiar with the problem. Maybe a member of this board who lives in your area can help you check this out. The good thing about both of my suggestions is that you can check and see if you need to replace these FIRST, without having to buy anything unless you confirm that you in fact need to. Regards, Eric
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89 300E "Benzer1" 15.924 Uncorrected 93 400E "Benzer3" 14.200 U.C. 95 E420 "Benzer4" 92 300E "Benzer5" 16.299 U.C. Future turbo CNG 87 300D "Benzer7" 87 300D "Benzer8" 87 300D "Benzer9" 87 300D/70 AMC Javelin "Sidewinder-Benzer" 87 300TD "Benzer11" 06 E320 CDI "Benzer12" 05 E320 CDI "Benzer12A" 71 AMC Javelin AMX 401 "Sidewinder" 74 AMC Hornet 401 "C.K.10" 13.63 U.C. 74 Bricklin SV1 "Presto" AMC 360 pwrd. Last edited by 400Eric; 02-21-2010 at 07:21 AM. |
#59
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I just wanted to make sure I understand what you're saying here. When you turn your key to position 2, you do not see a check engine light?
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1993 400E, 256,000 miles (totaled) 1994 E420, 200,000+ miles 1995 E420, 201,000 miles |
#60
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There are a total of about 9-10 lights that all are working but no one light specific for CEL . What would it look like and what would it be called . I do not believe there is any more room on my instrument cluster for any more lights , and all the lights there work . |
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