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  #16  
Old 03-02-2010, 11:13 AM
777funk's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
I'm wondering if the OVP is bad. Perhaps other things, but check the OVP.
I don't have any problems with a racing or irregular idle. I'm not sure if that would happen or not. But the car idles fine. Maybe a little slow when it's missing but other than that nothing weird with the idle.

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Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #17  
Old 03-02-2010, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 777funk View Post
I don't have any problems with a racing or irregular idle. I'm not sure if that would happen or not. But the car idles fine. Maybe a little slow when it's missing but other than that nothing weird with the idle.
OVP's are notoriously bad on these cars. The original parts were bad, and were later replaced with a new unit with a new part number.

Replace it anyway. They are cheap.
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  #18  
Old 03-02-2010, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by suginami View Post
OVP's are notoriously bad on these cars. The original parts were bad, and were later replaced with a new unit with a new part number.

Replace it anyway. They are cheap.
Ok, the fuse on the OVP relay was bad. I replaced it and the ABS light went off. A few minutes of running and the check engine light came on. Good! Well not good but nice to see it knows something's wrong and notices the mis-fire.

Anyways, next up, I press the test button in the box near the battery and the LED lights up now but holding it for any amount of seconds I've tried (1-4 and a little longer) doesn't do anything. There is no blinking at all. It just comes on when I press it and goes off when I let go. BUT... the check engine light is on. I guess that's a start.

Also, when I turn the car off and restart the check engine goes away.

Also, before when the light wasn't working (blown OVP fuse) the idle rev would limit at 3k RPMs.
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-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #19  
Old 03-02-2010, 03:36 PM
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Ok Got a Check Engine and got the onboard code button light to blink finally after a good test drive. I'm getting 20 blinks.

I held the button for 7 seconds and couldn't get it to clear the code though.

Another interesting thing... I'm getting a smooth fire at 2-3k or so. Idle misses pretty good but 2-3k in park seems fine. Also seems like it is fairly smooth at WOT. If I hit 4k in park it's stuttering like it's rev limited. Before the OVP fuse change it was right at 3k when in park.
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-E300d '99 350k
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Sold
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-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.

Last edited by 777funk; 03-02-2010 at 03:41 PM.
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  #20  
Old 03-02-2010, 03:53 PM
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Still can't believe you got a '94 E320 for $200. Somebody must have thought it was toast. Flood car?
You need to try and pull the codes somehow. Be sure you are doing it right - hold 2-3 secs to initiate the blinks, count the blinks, do it again. When the number of blinks repeat, you are finished pulling codes. Hold the button 10 seconds to clear the codes(I think).
I have a DTC list for my m103 that I got here or some other Benz forum. Had the whole PDF (it's from a Baum Tools DTC manual) and it included the m104 DTCs, but can't seem to find it.
What does the wiring harness look like? It can cause all kinds of problems if it has deteriorated.
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  #21  
Old 03-02-2010, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d.delano View Post
Still can't believe you got a '94 E320 for $200. Somebody must have thought it was toast. Flood car?
You need to try and pull the codes somehow. Be sure you are doing it right - hold 2-3 secs to initiate the blinks, count the blinks, do it again. When the number of blinks repeat, you are finished pulling codes. Hold the button 10 seconds to clear the codes(I think).
I have a DTC list for my m103 that I got here or some other Benz forum. Had the whole PDF (it's from a Baum Tools DTC manual) and it included the m104 DTCs, but can't seem to find it.
Well it was from a friend from church. They sort of ended up with it and bought it in a situation from a relative and it ended up as their daughter's car (cool first car! I wish any MB would have been my first). She drove it until the NSS quit working and it already had the misfiring issue. Before that they couldn't get it to go because there's a transmission seal leak. So it just turned into a pain for them. No where in town would work on it. They asked me if I knew what was wrong a couple months ago and I just sort of shrugged my shoulders and said, I'm a Diesel guy. I didn't want to become a mechanic on someone's car when I don't know anything about the gas engines. And I've got way too much on my plate. But I told them about this place and said, this is the best way to drive an MB. I guess they weren't interested in messing with it because I asked how it was going with the car a few weeks back and he said, heck you want it... I just want it out of here.... $100 and it's yours. I said, well thanks a lot but I don't need another sedan (Already have the 87 300d). Well the next week I went over there got it started and I think he sort of rethought what he said with $100 for the car but at the same time didn't want to mess with it or throw any money at it since there are lots of issues (I'm still not sure just how many). But overall for $200... I figured I'd get at least parts out of it if it turns out to be used up (200k on the clock).

All that said, I really like the way the M104 is layed out. Seems like it was built to be easy to work on for the most part. I'd probably buy another. I still feel any pre-year 2000 MB diesel (except the 603 3.5 liter) is a simpler better engine. But for a gasoline powered car, the design is great. MUCH better design for working on than any other modern gasoline engine I've owned.
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-E300d '99 350k
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-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #22  
Old 03-02-2010, 06:04 PM
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The engine is rev-limited in neutral and park.

Sounds like you're getting closer, at least the OBD will work now.

Some CEL codes reset when you re-start, some only after the code is cleared. you'll need to read the codes from the ECU also.

Where in MO are you? Near the AFB?
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  #23  
Old 03-02-2010, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by babymog View Post
The engine is rev-limited in neutral and park.

Sounds like you're getting closer, at least the OBD will work now.

Some CEL codes reset when you re-start, some only after the code is cleared. you'll need to read the codes from the ECU also.

Where in MO are you? Near the AFB?
Jeff, I'm actually closer to the army base. We used to live in Columbia which is around 1 hour or so from Whiteman AFB. Now we live out in the country which has been nice.

Thanks for the pointers by the way. I'd love to pickup a TDT one of these days. You're lucky! I see one in your signature.


As far as codes, would these be accurate?
E320 16 PIN DTC Charts inc. pin 8, pin 14
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-E300d '99 350k
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Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
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-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #24  
Old 03-02-2010, 07:39 PM
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Ok, Just built the code reader and got the codes.

Pin 8 Gave:
4 Hot film mass air flow sensor
13 O2S (Lambda) control system operating at rich or lean limit
21 Ignition output 3 or ignition coil for cylinder 1 and 6
23 Ignition output 2 or ignition coil for cylinder 3 and 4 (Engine 111, cylinder 2 and 3)
28 VSS - open circuit
41 CAN communication from engine control module faulty
42 CAN communication from ASR, EA/CC/ISC module or diagnostic module (OBD II) faulty
43 Starter signal (circuit 50) not present

and Pin 14 Gave:
5 Stop lamp switch (S9/1)
9 Left rear axle vehicle speed sensor from ABS/ASR control module or in 124 chassis
11 Closed throttle recognition signal to engine control module (HFM-SFI or Left LH-SFI)
Fuel safety shut-off to engine control module (HFM-SFI or left or right LH-SFI)

Obviously those are codes stored from who knows how long ago. Some are from running the engine with the crossover pipe un-attached and from the bad fuse on the OVP Relay. I should clear them and take it for a drive and then see.

But there. Now we have something. Thanks for the tip on the OVP Jeff.

By the way here's my tester (made from junk laying around). I used a cheap guitar pedal and some old test leads from a harbor freight multimeter for the banana plugs. I put a 1.5k resistor from the hot lead to the LED to keep it from burning out under 12 Volts. Works great! The pedal has the perfect momentary switch. I have a pile of these pedals (used to mod them and resell). This is equally useful as when it was a guitar pedal. Actually more useful! Saves a trip to the dealer. Thanks Arthur Dalton and others who posted the info on the test setup.



Attached Thumbnails
320E (My first Gas MB) Misses and sometimes smokes-dsc_0004.jpg   320E (My first Gas MB) Misses and sometimes smokes-dsc_0005.jpg  
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-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #25  
Old 03-02-2010, 07:56 PM
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Don't mean to be morbid, but if you end up parting out the car, I want the wheels assuming they are all in decent shape and I can get them shipped to Kalifornia for not too much

Not sure I agree with you on the point that the M104 is easy to work on. Most all the accessories on the front of the motor are a pain to deal with, serp belt can be a real problem, tensioner is a crummy design, etc. My '91 Exploder is about the easiest thing I've ever worked on.
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  #26  
Old 03-02-2010, 08:02 PM
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Ok cleared all the codes... by the way do I need to clear them one at a time or is there an easier way?

After I cleared the codes I ran it for a few minutes in park and took it for a short drive. It's obviously missing but no Check Engine Light coming on. Is there a number of miles it needs to go to give me a fault code?
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-E300d '99 350k
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-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
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-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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  #27  
Old 03-02-2010, 08:05 PM
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If its been cleared, it should start throwing codes as soon as it gets up to temp.
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  #28  
Old 03-02-2010, 08:27 PM
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I can tell you that the EGR code can take several days to reappear. Looks like you don't have that one though.
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  #29  
Old 03-02-2010, 09:52 PM
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I am thinking bad fuel! The car idles but when put in to gear then the problem comes to light. All compontents have been either replaced or services, again I think it is the fuel.

El Sea/L.C.
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  #30  
Old 03-02-2010, 10:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by el sea View Post
I am thinking bad fuel! The car idles but when put in to gear then the problem comes to light. All compontents have been either replaced or services, again I think it is the fuel.

El Sea/L.C.
Well nothing has been changed/fixed yet other than the OVP Relay fuse.

I cleaned up the plug wires on the 3 and 4 cylinder and it didn't fix the problem (they were SUPER dirty). There was carbon deeper than the hex on the spark plug. It was VERY deep and super gritty stuff... almost flakes of carbon. It looked like something you'd see on an exhaust valve or worse.

I hope to get the car to throw a code hopefully soon. We'll see.

__________________
-E300d '99 350k
-Suburban '93 220k
-TDI Jetta '03 350k
Sold
-F250 '96 7.3
-Dodge Ram 12V
-E320 '95 200k
-E320 Wagon 1994 155k
-300d Turbo '87 187k miles
-E320 1994 200k
-300d Turbo '84 245k (sold to Dan62)
-300d Turbo '84 180k
-300sd '80 300k
-7.3 Powerstroke Diesel 15P Van 500k+ miles
-190d '89 Non Turbo 2.5 5cyl 240k (my first MB)
Tom's Imports of Columbia MO Ruined the IP in changing leaky delivery valve O-Rings - Refused to stand behind his work. Mid-MO MB drivers-AVOID Tom's.
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