"How to" question re: E320 oil change - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

85 DSEL · #1 02-27-2010, 07:53 AM

I am planning to start doing my own oil change service on my recently acquired '95 W124 wagon but wanted to read something about the procedure. I have searched the archives to nary avail.

Its first change since my ownership was performed by an indy shop that I had do initial service on the car.

I am a 'veteran' do-my-own-oil-change-guy of many years so I am well capable of the task, it's just, uh, umm - well :::AHEM COUGH::: er uh where's the OIL FILTER?!

Oh yeah, one more question - what are your thoughts on switching over to fully synthetic oil on this 'low' miles motor? It just turned 80K last evening.

Thanks for the replies and I do understand that the first hour of consultation is free?!

NOTE: Since I posted this, I have done a search on "synthetic oil" and have several days of reading to do! Comment on YOUR thoughts if you have experience with the 320 motor and synthetic oils.

Hirnbeiss · #2 02-27-2010, 08:01 AM

On top. Open the hood and look to your right, on the driver's side of the engine is a black round cap that needs a filter wrench to remove it. Look at this DIY under "Resources" "DIY Articles", aside from the engine and filter location, yours is 95% identical. You can gravity drain the oil from the drain plug or use a vacuum device to pull through the dipstick.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OilFilter2

85 DSEL · #3 02-27-2010, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hirnbeiss

On top. Open the hood and look to your right, on the driver's side of the engine is a black round cap that needs a filter wrench to remove it. Look at this DIY under "Resources" "DIY Articles", aside from the engine and filter location, yours is 95% identical. You can gravity drain the oil from the drain plug or use a vacuum device to pull throught the dipstick.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OilFilter2

Thanks!

I have looked at that DIY article but wanted something specific to the 320. Guess there's nothing out there?

If I want to drain from the plug, isn't there some sort of 'splash' shield or cover that comes into play? I'm sorry, I've not crawled under it yet to investigate.

Dale

400Eric · #4 02-27-2010, 09:11 AM

Try to get an oil that is NOT the newer "SM" standard. Try to get one that is the older "SL" standard instead. All the "SM"s say they also meet "SL", but they are NOT the same and they are NOT as good. They have reduced levels of ZDDP (zinc phosphate). I've noticed that Royal Purple synthetic is still "SL" but you better check to be sure. I'm running some old Amsoil that I have a stash of that is "SL" but I don't know if their new stuff still is.
Regards, Eric

fred1948 · #5 02-27-2010, 09:41 AM

Yes, you have to remove the splash shield under the engine; about 6 or 8 screws.
To remove the oil filter cap (this car uses a cartridge type filter) you will need a special oil filter wrench. There are specialty wrenches that sell for many $$ but I found one that was a perfect fit at AutoZone. It is sold under the OEM trademark and is called "Oil Filter "B" Cap Wrench". Only cost a few dollars.

85 DSEL · #6 02-27-2010, 11:45 AM

Thanks for the replies Eric and Fred...

I've always said, "You guys are the BEST!"

I can always depend on an answer here

lkchris · #7 02-27-2010, 12:51 PM

Understand that on any German car that if a drain plug has a washer, this washer is always replaced with a new one and never reused.

This car is designed to have motor oil "vacuumed" out the dipstick tube, and it's sure an easier process and removes the same amount of oil (or more) than draining.

It's the 21st century--why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?

And forget completely all SMs and SJs and viscocity figures and look instead for Mercedes specification approval printed ON THE BOTTLE. Follow recommendations here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9511/?requestedDocId=9511

Your best bet for motor oil is Mobil 1 European Formula 0W-40, which meets Mercedes specifications. Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes.

85 DSEL · #8 02-27-2010, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lkchris

Understand that on any German car that if a drain plug has a washer, this washer is always replaced with a new one and never reused.

This car is designed to have motor oil "vacuumed" out the dipstick tube, and it's sure an easier process and removes the same amount of oil (or more) than draining.

It's the 21st century--why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?

And forget completely all SMs and SJs and viscocity figures and look instead for Mercedes specification approval printed ON THE BOTTLE. Follow recommendations here: http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9511/?requestedDocId=9511

Your best bet for motor oil is Mobil 1 European Formula 0W-40, which meets Mercedes specifications. Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes.

Wow! Where do I start?

First off - (Question) Those of you who take your cars to the dealer for routine service, do they do a top-side evac of the oil when performing an oil change? Just curious.

Draining by gravity has always worked well for me. I once borrowed a buddy's evac tank for a boat I once owned and I have to tell you, it took a lot longer to get the same amount of oil evac'd than had I been gravity draining it. It only makes sense to me that I will leave more of the old oil in the pan by using vac than draining - after all, I don't believe you can beat gravity when it comes to draining oil! (BTW, I would need to buy another 'space-gobbling' tool that I really don't have the space in my garage for!)

Second - in response to the 21-century remark AND answering your question, "why would you even consider nonsynthetic motor oil?" - I have lived long enough to understand that I will not trust my own personal 'thoughts' or 'feelings' or 'understanding' on how things work or should work or how it will perform if I do 'X' without first delving into it and ASKING others who may (or may not) know a whole bunch more than I on any given subject matter! Such irresponsible attitudes can end up costing far more than I may be prepared for due to damage that might be done. As I have read here someplace, there are as many 'opinions' on this issue of oil as there are members and I am grateful for your link that has educated me more so than before your finger hit the 'submit' trigger!

Third - addressing your last statement, "Remember, if the Mercedes 229.x number is not printed on the bottle, the oil is NOT suitable for a Mercedes." A quote from the link you so graciously provided states: "Mercedes-Benz recommends the use of MB-approved engine oils listed in the Mercedes-Benz oil specification sheet 229.3 or 229.5 which also meet ACEA and/or API classifications listed on the chart below. If a MB-approved or ACEA quality engine oil is not available, then an API quality engine oil meeting the below listed API classification can be used.(SJ or SL - added by me) Only engine oils (including synthetic) with any of the following classification grades, or combinations thereof, are approved."

Now, if I understand this, (looking at the chart in the link) if the bottle has an 'SJ or SL API Classification', it is fine to use.

Matt L · #9 02-27-2010, 09:27 PM

I got an extractor from Harbor Freight recently for $140. Here's the link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46149

It fits the Benz very well. It has a number of attachments, various sizes of steel and nylon pipes to suck through, but the point where these attach to the unit is an o-ring fitting that exactly fits the dipstick tube in my 606. I can suck through the tube itself for all that's worth, then insert a nylon pipe and suck just a bit more.

No manual pumping. It produces a 25" vacuum and is very quiet (when the air compressor isn't running, that is). That kind of vacuum will evacuate the crankcase in short order.

For a Chinese piece, it's rather nice. I had to replace the air inlet fitting to match my other connectors, but that's it for modifications.

bsmuwk · #10 02-27-2010, 11:16 PM

Mind you, if you switch to synthetic you can expect oil leaks in places there were none before. The detergents in the synthetics will clean out that engine and any oil seals that have gummed up enough will expose any holes or cracks in the seals that have formed over time. Synthetics are better oils, but they do have their downsides.

Ferdman · #11 02-28-2010, 12:02 PM

85 DSEL, MB dealers sell the oil filter housing wrench with a male hex head to accept a socket wrench. As you have probably discoverd by now the oil filter housing is between the back of the engine and the firewall.

It's easier to suction the old oil out through the dipstick tube than draining it from the oil pan drain hole. That's how the MB dealers do it. Consider purchasing a Griot's Garage oil/liquid extractor. I have been using one for 12 years, and it simplifies oil changes.

As for oil I use Mobil 1 15W50 in our 1995 E320. A changeover to synthetic oil at 80,000 miles should be uneventful. I switched ours over at 130,000 miles and at 165,000 miles the engine is still bone dry.

babymog · #12 03-01-2010, 11:00 AM

I bought a traditional oil-filter end-type wrench at Autozone for my M104 / E320 filter. Fits and works great (with a 3/8" extension / ratchet).

Syn oil doesn't create leaks, might exploiit existing leaks more as regular oil thickens a good deal more when cold/parked.

I bought gallons of Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel & Truck (5W-40?) at Meijer last week for $16 regular price, a class IV synthetic that meets all S/gasoline requirements. Many of us with gasser Mercedes use this (as well as the diesel crowd) and it's popular with the VW/Audi crowd also. Good price.

Ferdman · #13 03-01-2010, 02:27 PM

Suggest you call the Parts Department at your local MB dealer for a price on the tool. I recall paying around $8 some 10 years ago.

85 DSEL · #14 03-09-2010, 09:48 PM

WELL -

Today the UPS truck delivered my new MityVac Fluid Evacuator Plus model 7201 AND 3 cases (18 qrt) of M1 0W40 European Car Formula oil!

I was pumped and wanting to do my first oil change this evening I discovered that ADVANCE AUTO (online order) forgot to send my 2 BOSCH oil filters. ARGH!

Guess I could just pick one up locally but then I'd have to pay full price instead of the great deal I got by purchasing online. They had a sale where I was able to save 15% when order was $100 or > plus the shipping was free since it was $75 or >!

Any tips from you veteran oil 'extractors' using a MityVac? There's nothing in the operating instruction booklet about how many times I will need to pump the tank in order to get oil flowing. I would guess 8 - 10 times?

Looking forward to switching the wagon to synthetic as well as doing my oil changes from above rather than below, on ramps, on the cold garage floor, etc. etc!