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  #1  
Old 04-14-2010, 01:02 PM
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1991 mercedes 300se

I bought a 300se with 186,000 miles i have records for it (List of repairs

Check the spreadsheet at the bottom. Any suggestions? questions?

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/amcoomes/benz/8.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/amcoomes/benz/3.jpg

http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i177/amcoomes/benz/4.jpg

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  #2  
Old 04-14-2010, 03:10 PM
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Never take it back to Donald B Rice Tire....Only the left rotor was replaced???

Head gasket was replaced at 89k and 145k....Seems a little much...Either A) They used cheap head gaskets, or B) You may want to look into the cooling system. 55k between head gasket changes is far too quick for my liking.

There has been a lot of $$$ invested in that car. I tell you that. That is easily over $10k worth of work. It looks very nice.

Rough idle is not your timing chain. If it was your timing chain things would be a lot worse than a rough idle. Start by reading through CIS-E and understand the system.
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Last edited by ps2cho; 04-14-2010 at 03:30 PM.
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  #3  
Old 04-15-2010, 12:12 AM
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yea the previous owner bought it and had the money to get it serviced. gave it too his daughter and something happened to the car. their mechanic said a piece of the pre-cat broke off and its blocking the exhaust. thats y i replaced the exhaust. no improvement.

i bought the car for $1200. I spent 800 for the exhaust system. the egr for 275 and the timing parts for 375. My friend (retired, worked on cars all his life) said there was a vacuum leak right away after looking at it. there was a small hose that was ripped and we fixed that and the EGR was all rusted, obviously needed to be replaced.

There was no improvementl. the car still idled high. it sits at 3k and eventually starts rising to 4k after it warms up. sometimes it idles fine and stays.

After it warms up it doesnt wanna start again. it has to cool down then it will start. the coolant is fine.

If its definitley not the timing chain then wat could it be??
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  #4  
Old 04-15-2010, 03:23 PM
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OVP, fuel distributor, throttle actuator and then have duty cycle adjusted.
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Old 04-15-2010, 08:58 PM
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Look at the idle control valve. Make sure it is not stuck open. Pull it off and clean it first. There may just be debree stuck in there.
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  #6  
Old 04-15-2010, 09:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ps2cho View Post
Look at the idle control valve. Make sure it is not stuck open. Pull it off and clean it first. There may just be debree stuck in there.
Either that or the TPS on the throttle butterfly valve has failed in the full throttle position.
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1991 300E - 212K and rising fast...
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  #7  
Old 04-15-2010, 11:23 PM
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Check these items, it's pretty easy:

1) Air meter plate operating freely
2) Throttle linkage adjusted properly and actuating idle switch properly, lubed and not sticking.....
3) Idle switch actually working - test with ohmmeter
4) Idle air valve clean and working - remove, spray with carb cleaner, test with fresh 9v battery
5) Throttle butterfly closing properly (a little harder to check but doable)
6) Coolant temp sensors working properly - test with ohmmeter - search posts here, there are many on testing these.
7) Cold start injector not spraying constantly (pretty rare that it is)


My bet is that it is something to do with the idle circuit, either the switch or the air valve.
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition
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  #8  
Old 04-16-2010, 02:05 AM
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Correct me if I am wrong, but the cold start injector/valve should only operate during startup. After that it should close and there should be no fuel coming out of it. It was implemented purely for cold climates.
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  #9  
Old 04-16-2010, 09:04 AM
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very correct .it comes on for a few seconds . ,then the voltage is zero at the connector.
mak
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  #10  
Old 04-16-2010, 04:20 PM
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Right. If it continues on, it's an issue which could either indicate a bad injector or even a bad coolant temp sensor! I should have worded that more carefully - I can see how you might have thought that I was saying that it should keep spraying, which is not what I meant. I meant check to see that it's not constantly spraying, which would be a fault.
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1990 300SE "Corinne"- 145k daily driver - street modified differential - PARTING OUT OR SELLING SOON - PORTLAND OR. AREA - PM ME FOR DETAILS
1988 560SEL "Gunther"- 190K passes anything except a gas station
1997 S420 - 265k just bought it with a rebuilt trans. Lovely condition
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  #11  
Old 04-16-2010, 06:21 PM
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video

I made a video idk if it would help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K6axqrM50HY
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  #12  
Old 04-16-2010, 11:30 PM
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Hmm seen this cant remember what exactly to do to fix it..... Ill stew on it and get back to you.

Last edited by macdrone; 04-16-2010 at 11:32 PM. Reason: edit info
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  #13  
Old 04-27-2010, 01:51 PM
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Timing chain

Hey the timing chain was off time. When the cam is TDC, the crank is about 30 degrees off to the right and the tensioner, wen compared to new one is extended a lot more (the guide rail was worn down which added to that effect). Oil and coolant will be put back in it tomorow and the belt and hoses. Then I'll start it up. Also I have a bunch of pictures of the old and new timing parts

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