Hello,

I can't seem to find a common answer to the question regarding what type of ATF is recommended when doing a tranny fluid change.

Some people say any dextron 3 or above is fine. Some people say use ONLY genuine MB tranny oil. One MB tech said that changing the tranny oil in a car with high mileage could be fatal.

A tranny fluid change is long overdue in my vehicle. I've got 210K+ miles and I just need to know what fluid to use. The vehicle shifts hard from 2nd to 3rd and I'm not looking to make matters worse. Anyone that can chime in with some help would be appreciated. The car is a 1992 190E 2.6 with 210,000+ miles.

Thanks!

See ...

http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/9511/?requestedDocId=9511

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Kent Christensen
Albuquerque
'07 GL320CDI, '10 CL550. '01 Porsche Boxster
Two BMW motorcycles

I just talked to the Dealer about my 1987 300D 3.0l. They confirmed that I CAN use Dex3/Merc in the trans.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Dexron 3 or higher is just fine on MB's thru 1995.

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MERCEDES Benz Master Guild Technician (6 TIMES)
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1986 190E 2.3 16V 2.5 (sold)
Retired Moderator

Thanks for the replies, gentlemen. Glad I won't be dropping $23 a liter for MB ATF.

I roll with Dexron VI in my 1990 300TE in Los Lunas New Mexico....works fine

Same here, Valvoline Dexron VI synthetic, works great in all 6 of our MB's.

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'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I am using Redline Synthetic D4 fluid in my wagon going forward after my rebuild. I've read it is one of the best hands down although a little more expensive. With new seals I should get no leaks.

I run Valveoline Maxlife Dex III in my 260E as I don't want to make any potential leaks emerge. I suggest you do the same and stay away from synthetic.

The comment about NOT changing the fluid on high mileage transmission is bullcrap. Just make sure you spend a good 20 minutes getting it up to operating temperature and cycle each gear many times over. Drive it slowly for the first few miles after a day you should be all good.

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

X2 with ps2cho about not changing fluid. No one in their right mind would believe that. It makes me wonder about some one who would say that. Are they waiting for your trans to fail so they can get the rebuild job. There is a spring you can replace to overcome the hard shift. There are several threads on it. If Biodiesel (Andrew) is about, he may like to give you a few pointers. There are plenty of others that have done the job, best done while you change the fluid & filter.

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I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

The spring (k1 kit) is for flaring 2-3, not hard shifts. It makes the car shift harder between 2-3.

He may just need a bowden cable/vac modulator adjustment.

Shifting firm is better than shifting slow

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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k
2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k
2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k
2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k

The shifting is not too bad, it kicks. ps2cho, what's the rundown on adjusting the bowden cable & vac modulator? Any special tools needed?

For what it's worth. I debated dexron 3 or synthetic in my 1992 190E. I went with Redline. Noticable improvement in shifting and the fluid that was in it was not that old. I'm glad I changed it and used Redline D4