w210 A/C Where do I go from here? Codes, etc. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

babybenz · #1 07-08-2010, 12:49 AM

I read the following codes from the climate control unit. Could someone give some advise on what next?

1 85
2 91
3 109
4 109
5 134
6 166
7 09
8 109

EC light is off, compressor won't engage

What is the value range for number 5-- the evaporator temp sensor and what is the value range for number 7-- the pressure in bars?

Code error was B1419--electromagnetic clutch

What would you do next?

Thanks, John

Jer · #2 07-08-2010, 07:45 AM

The value for #5 should be around 40 degrees F. The value for #7 is the high-side pressure measured at the receiver/drier. It will be low, around 6 bar at low ambient temp, and high (around 11+) at high ambient temp. A very glaring problem is that the evaporator temp is way higher than the left/right heater temps. Oftentimes the evap. temp sensor fails and gives these bizarre readings. #3, 4, and 5 should all be the same or very close with the compressor not running.

mbdoc · #3 07-08-2010, 08:14 AM

That does suggest that the evap temp sensor IS the problem..

MB number 210-830-07-72

babybenz · #4 07-12-2010, 07:23 PM

Hey guys,
thanks for the advise. I just replaced the Evap Temp sensor, the compressor did not engage. I got the following readings with the new switch. I did hold the two Auto buttons until I got a "d" in the screen, but also noticed that he auto red lights did not go out no matter what buttons I pushed when I was on regular temp screen. What's next, please??

1 98
2 93
3 111
4 109
5 105
6 179
7 10
8 112

Thanks, John

Jer · #5 07-12-2010, 10:16 PM

The next thing I would try is to check for 12V at the compressor clutch. You will need to keep the connector in place. Usually the back side of the connector can be removed for access to the pins.

Mr.Billyd · #6 07-13-2010, 10:59 AM

I have the same issue on a 97 E300D with 110k miles.
Outside temp this morning was about 95 - 100F.
I am assuming all readings are in C. and bar. I don't know how others have theirs in F. and PSI.
1. 42
2. 41
3. 43
4. 42
5. 42
6. 74
7. 9
8. 43

My EC light was forced on.
Codes b1419, b1231, b1241

I did the EC over ride and cleared the faults.
My b1419 is stuck and can't be reset. I think the b1241 must of forced the EC light on to shut down the compressor. I can't recharge the system as I can't get the compressor on.

The system was cooling just fine here in AZ with 110deg ambient, but the car was doing the hissing, which I now know indicates a low fill situation.

Does B1419 force the 12 vdc off?
Or does it mean 12 vdc is applied and it's not turning on.
Is there an easier place to apply the 12 vdc other than the compressor. Like at the other end of the connector?
If I can't reset the 419 from the climate control unit, can you reset it from the OBDII connector?

I am driving this car from Tucson to PHX in a moment, so I won't be able to put a meter on it until tomorrow morning when things cool off.

Would putting a hair dryer on my 134 refg bottle help get the contents inside the system? I would think probably a waste of time as now the system is static,(not compressing) and has 9 bar. which is about 130psi.
With this static pressure I was able to clear b1241

Bill

Matt L · #7 07-13-2010, 07:49 PM

B1419 is the code for the electromagnetic clutch. Yes, that will prevent compressor operation, but usually it wouldn't operate anyway.

Check the wire going to the compressor to ensure that it is not damaged. Sagging engine mounts can stress this wire. If it's connected, disconnect it and measure the resistance between the connection on the compressor and ground. If it's open, your electromagnetic clutch is indeed bad and you probably need a new compressor.

Mr.Billyd · #8 07-13-2010, 10:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Matt L

B1419 is the code for the electromagnetic clutch. Yes, that will prevent compressor operation, but usually it wouldn't operate anyway.

Check the wire going to the compressor to ensure that it is not damaged. Sagging engine mounts can stress this wire. If it's connected, disconnect it and measure the resistance between the connection on the compressor and ground. If it's open, your electromagnetic clutch is indeed bad and you probably need a new compressor.

I have read about 1000 post. 1 of yours you said to try and free spin the front side of the compressor with the engine off. You said that it should have equal pressure on the H and L side if it's cold. I will try this in the morning. I tried a while a go, but the engine is about 90c. I did make somewhat of a go at it. I think it's seized probably why I have B1419. It has been running fine but I have heard that low fill hiss from time 2 time.

What is a good price to get a new compressor? What else should I change out while the system is apart. Sensors or hoses? You change hoses with age or when they leak? All my sensors read the same in the morning. I would hate to have it all back together and a hose or 40 dollar system take me out again. I have 110k on a 97 E300D.
I live in AZ and the system is running 10 months of the year. I don't know if I have ever had the heater on before.
I would change out all the gear myself, but I don't have all the A/C gear to set it up properly any way. I should I expect to pay in labor?? Or all in?? 3K
Would it make sense to have it evacuated, then change all my parts out, and then have them fill it and set it up? Probably makes more sense to pay out the labor and have them stand behind it if some part or issue arises.
I was hoping that the evap sensor was the issue, as so many have had that issue.

Could it be just the clutch? I will ohm it out in the morning.

bill