Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum > Technical Information and Support > Tech Help

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 07-11-2010, 02:48 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Update - We checked and its getting fire to the plug wires. I dont know if he removed the plugs to see if they were gassy or not... I will check.

Nope, dont have a fuel pump jumper or any wire... maybe I can find some.

edit - I have discovered that this is actually the A/C relay by another forum and the poster below - thank you.
Anyway, is this the fuel pump relay? I just removed it and took a pic of it. (It was the one closest to the brake booster). Appears its been tested/replaced before... is there any way to test these?

To recap... we have fire to the plugs, fuel pump is "hissing" when switch is on... car will "try" to start, but will not. Maybe at this point replace the fuel filter and see if thats any help?

Thanks once again!




Last edited by 86560SEL; 07-11-2010 at 09:02 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 07-11-2010, 03:23 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Another update - put the relay back in to try to start (someone said it could be the alarm system malfucntioning causing it not to start, but I dont think so on one this old- disabling the fuel flow), but it did finally start and run good at idle, but it would miss and stumble on acceleration and exhaust smelled strange. I turned it off, then it would not start again.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 07-11-2010, 08:01 PM
Cal Learner's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Marysville, CA
Posts: 781
That's the A/C compressor relay, not the fuel pump relay. Should be right next to it, though.
__________________
1988 California version 260E (W124)
Anthracite Grey/Palomino
Owned since new and still going strong and smooth
MBCA member

Past Mercedes-Benz:
1986 190E Baby Benz
1967 230 Inherited from mom when she downsized
1959 220S Introduced me to the joys of keepin' 'em goin'

There are only 10 kinds of people in the world--those who understand binary and those who don't
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 07-11-2010, 09:03 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Learner View Post
That's the A/C compressor relay, not the fuel pump relay. Should be right next to it, though.
Thanks. Yeah, someone on another Mercedes site informed me of this as well... I had forgot to edit.

Guess we are going to get a new rotor for the dist cap tomorrow and see if thats the problem... if not, going to try to purchase a used FPR and go from there. Seems like it could be so many different things.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 07-12-2010, 01:58 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
The rotor is cracked and looks burned... going to replace and go from there....
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 07-12-2010, 02:22 PM
slk230red's Avatar
WECO Installer
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL View Post
The rotor is cracked and looks burned... going to replace and go from there....
I've been following this thread and I hope that fixes your problem. Of course the first thing to check is the basics, but sometimes that's hard to get across and people tend to think it's something more serious.
Here's a rotor that worked fine for a long time then one day the engine wouldn't re-start.

Good luck.

__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 07-12-2010, 03:23 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Wow thats bad. Well, that apparently was not the problem. Car is still running poorly and missing. He had to "prime" it to even get it to start. I am betting its the FPR... but hate to pay $90 for a new one if thats not the problem. Mom needed the car like yesterday. Oh well.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 07-12-2010, 03:36 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Well, the car may not even be worth repairing by the time my dad gets done with it... messing with things he dont know anything about. Went out and he was about the remove the gas lines to the FI system to check for pressure, etc. I told him that here and most other sites are telling me that its 90% likely that its the fuel pump relay. I am going to get him to call my uncles Mercedes mechanic in South Carolina... supposedly the best there is.
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 07-12-2010, 04:50 PM
slk230red's Avatar
WECO Installer
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 814
Quote:
Originally Posted by 86560SEL View Post
Wow thats bad. Well, that apparently was not the problem. Car is still running poorly and missing. He had to "prime" it to even get it to start. I am betting its the FPR... but hate to pay $90 for a new one if thats not the problem. Mom needed the car like yesterday. Oh well.

Did you try putting a jumper on the fuel pump relay to run the fuel pumps so you could verify if the relay is bad?
__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 07-12-2010, 05:14 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Quote:
Originally Posted by slk230red View Post
Did you try putting a jumper on the fuel pump relay to run the fuel pumps so you could verify if the relay is bad?
Well we dont have a jumper, but someone said we could use a regular wire. ?

We can hear the pumps come on though when we turn the ignition on....
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 07-12-2010, 05:33 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas
Posts: 776
Well, if the pump runs for a few seconds every time you turn on the key, it would seem the FPR is functioning.
Glad to hear it finally cranked and idled good for awhile -- that rules out a lot of things, like a jumped timing chain (ouch) and probably the ignition components.
Just sounds like fuel starvation, and the video sounds like that's it also.

Here's a test; but be very careful.
Try to start it, and hit it with starter fluid; if it revs up, then it's not ignition for sure.
Pull the top of the air filter off & Pour a small amount of fuel, a couple of ounces, down the throttle body, then immediately try to start it. If it revs up then dies, you have a fuel delivery problem. Have a fire estinguisher ready just in case - never hurts.

Instant, catastrophic fuel delivery failure points to a fuel pressure regulator, or as we discussed, clogged filter (or a load of bad gas - you had just filled up, right?). Since you did get it to idle and run a bit, I'm betting on the filter, and/or a bad load of gas, not the pressure regulator.

DG
DG
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 07-12-2010, 05:59 PM
slk230red's Avatar
WECO Installer
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 814
Before replacing any parts, I would make sure that the lower hose on the Idle Control Valve is securely connected on both ends. Make sure the lower hose is still connected to the bottom of the intake boot.
__________________

1993 190E 2.3
2001 SLK230
1971 LS5 (454) Corvette Convertible

Last edited by slk230red; 07-12-2010 at 06:15 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 07-13-2010, 01:23 PM
86560SEL's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: east Tennessee (southeast USA)
Posts: 3,005
Thanks. Those hoses are tight. Dad talked to my uncles Mercedes mechanic and he told my dad how to test to make sure it was not the FPR by telling him what to "jumper". He did and the car still will not start. He said if it wasnt that, it could be the crank position sensor... we only have no idea where its at? From what I have found on searches its on that black box behind the driverside headlight, but looks like it runs to a very bad place to get to and it has those original wire ties around it.

Last edited by 86560SEL; 07-13-2010 at 01:42 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 07-13-2010, 02:49 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Utrecht, the Netherlands
Posts: 363
Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Class Guru View Post
Well, if the pump runs for

Here's a test; but be very careful.
Try to start it, and hit it with starter fluid; if it revs up, then it's not ignition for sure.
Pull the top of the air filter off & Pour a small amount of fuel, a couple of ounces, down the throttle body, then immediately try to start it. If it revs up then dies, you have a fuel delivery problem. Have a fire estinguisher ready just in case - never hurts.

DG
DG
When pouring fuel in by hand, always use a small cup and empty it completely. There is always a risk of backfire.
Also stand well to the side of the car, not with your head above the engine.

This may seem obvious, but I have seen it happening.

Rob

Rob
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 07-13-2010, 02:56 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Dallas
Posts: 776
Still lookin' huh?
The 103 engine has two crank position sensors:

One is located in the front, just above the harmonic balancer, at about the 1:00 o'clock position when viewed from the front. This one only drives the tach, so it's not your problem. The cable goes over to a module on the LF fender.

The rear one is the one that provides the ignition with it's inputs. It's located at the rear on the upper left, just above the flywheel at the block/bellhousing interface. My car is gone today, but as I remember it's not too hard to spot.
It's cable plugs into the N1/2 module on the left fender, same one the coil wire attaches to.
Don't remember seeing a simple test procedure herein for this one.
May require a scope or scanner to monitor it.
One would think, however, that if the sensor malfunctions, you might get some wet plugs or some backfire if the fuel was entering the cylinders but not firing in the proper sequence.

DG
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:51 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page