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  #1  
Old 08-16-2010, 02:43 PM
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1998 e320, Is it necessary to replace blower with a new regulator

My daughters 1998 E320 clearly has a bad blower regulator. Many sources sell the "updated" regulators, 210 821 15 51 for good prices, but many also state that a new expensive blower is necessary and a new mounting plate as well.

Is it really necessary to replace a working DC blower when you update the regulator or is it just a matter of customizing the wiring harness and mounting it carefully?

If so, is there a way of working around this with a different regulator?
Many thanks.

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  #2  
Old 08-16-2010, 04:20 PM
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The system should need no modification with a correct regulator. If anyone says to replace the blower its because the bearings need greased or the brushes are worn.

Plenty of places to buy replacement brushes, and grease is easy to come by.
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  #3  
Old 08-16-2010, 07:10 PM
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That's what I was thinking, but here is the quote from Fastlane:

"On models prior to listed chassis cut-offs, additional parts are required due to supersession of blower motor and regulator. New regulator will require (1) 210 820 68 42 blower motor and (1) 210 835 27 40 blower mounting plate.;Original Equipment;"

What will actually happen if the new, improved regulator is used with the original blower?
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet- under restoration
'86 560SL 124K Miles-Sold
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
07 SL550, 14K Miles
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  #4  
Old 07-23-2011, 05:31 PM
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Now, that it's again hot, she finally wants it fixed. The regulator on this model was quite small, about 1.5 x 1 inch, and apparently fried itself as it could not dissipate the heat it generated. MBZ has discontinued it and makes you replace it with an entirely new motor and regulator assembly for well over $200.

Question: Has anyone worked around this problem with an aftermarket regulator and perhaps a heatsink so the original blower could be still used? I see Chinese regulators that appear to be modifiable for under $40 but can't tell their actual size to know if they will fit.
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet- under restoration
'86 560SL 124K Miles-Sold
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
07 SL550, 14K Miles
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  #5  
Old 07-23-2011, 07:23 PM
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Ron I just went through this same exercise on a 97 model. I ended up installing a used blower/regulator (updated version) that I had purchased off of ebay. I have a good, new regulator (for the w140 model that is used in this modification) already wired into the wiring harness available for sale for $50 if you want to try it before you try replacing the blower. The $50 does include shipping. Just the regulator did not fix the one I was working on.

Let me know.
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  #6  
Old 07-23-2011, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdrone View Post
The system should need no modification with a correct regulator. If anyone says to replace the blower its because the bearings need greased or the brushes are worn.

Plenty of places to buy replacement brushes, and grease is easy to come by.
This information is almost correct. What it leaves out is that M-B does NOT sell the correct regulator for the car.

To use the regulator that the dealer sells, you need a new blower motor and mounting plate. Sorry, I didn't obsolete the parts, but it will increase the bill by $500 or so.

It IS possible to buy a new 140 regulator (not just any, be sure to search for the correct number), cut off the wires, cut off the wires on your old dead 210 regulator, and make one that works both electrically and physically.
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  #7  
Old 07-24-2011, 01:33 AM
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Thanks folks. My daughter just bought a used OEM regulator on ebay that will get here next week and hopefully last for a while. In the meantime, I ran another wire from the blue motor lead to ground through a switch. This gives her full speed blower to rapidly cool down the car, then she can turn it off and let the low speed that remains working through that regulator to kind of keep the car bearable, then she can always turn on the high speed again. A bit crude, but it works fine and costs nothing.
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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet- under restoration
'86 560SL 124K Miles-Sold
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
07 SL550, 14K Miles
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  #8  
Old 07-24-2011, 10:49 AM
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You're probably better off buying a used one on Ebay, than buying a new one. Make that "supposed" new one. There are tons of fake Bosch parts for sale.

Here's hope that it will work.
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  #9  
Old 08-08-2011, 01:37 PM
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Smile

Buy a new regulator from Phil@peachparts for around $200+. He will sell you one made for a 140, and as described earlier in this thread, some alteration of the wiring is needed. It is a very simple operation. You will avoid buying the fan and all which is the solution mb came up with for the 210 problem.

If you have a question about doing this let me know. I just changed the regulator in my 99 210 a few weeks ago. Biggest problem for me was working upside down under the dash. I would lay off the bread and beer if I had to do this for a living
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  #10  
Old 08-08-2011, 01:57 PM
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The used OEM regulator ($45 on ebay) is installed and working perfectly. Yes, it isn't fun working under that dash, but infinitely better than getting to the regulator on my '94 wagon where you have to work under the hood and work/disassemble from the top down.
You would think, after all these years of heating and AC, that a good car maker would have come up with common, modular, plug-in control systems that are reliable instead of what appear to be afterthoughts in design.

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'76 240D-Sold
'78 240D-Sold
'85 300 SD, 165K-Sold
'88 300 TE, 165K-Sold
'64 Porsche 356C Cabriolet- under restoration
'86 560SL 124K Miles-Sold
'94 320E Wagon, 74K Miles-128K Miles JUNKED
'06 E350 Wagon, 84K Miles
07 SL550, 14K Miles
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