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  #1  
Old 08-19-2010, 11:35 PM
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W126 reverse slipping

Fluid looks good and at right level. All forward gears seem fine, to me. No vac leaks that I can tell of. It only in reverse. At first I though it was a brake problem, like a pad catching because that is exactly what it feels like. But I decided to hold it in reverse and just let it idle for a while. There is a "whirling" sound coming form the trans (I think). And the car will catch reverse slowly. Although tonight it jerked hard into reverse with barley any throttle input.

Ideas? I hope I am not loosing reverse, but I am betting its a trans issue. I am VERY new to this car and know little.

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  #2  
Old 08-20-2010, 12:37 AM
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Reverse is usually first to go on the 722.3 for whatever reason.

What sort of miles on the unit?
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  #3  
Old 08-20-2010, 12:38 AM
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Odometer reads 138k.

What is involved in transmission replacement? Any clue as to an approximate price? Or can I rebuild it?
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Old 08-20-2010, 05:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover View Post
Odometer reads 138k.

What is involved in transmission replacement? Any clue as to an approximate price? Or can I rebuild it?


Does the odo actually work?

Dropping driveshaft, crossmember, unbolting torque converter from flexplate, dropping the trans...

Price on paying someone to rebuild it? $1000-1500. If you are asking if you can rebuild it, I already doubt your skills. Not to be a downer, but it is not like just changing brake pads.



Most of the labor on a rebuild at a shop is the actual removal and installation of the unit, figure that $300-500 easily. A full rebuild kit is around $300, plus/minus $50 or so.

I would not go through all that hassle just to only replace the reverse clutch pack then reinstall the trans. Since you are already in there you may as well go through the rest of it if you plan to keep the vehicle.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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  #5  
Old 08-20-2010, 06:55 AM
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I had reverse fail last year on mine, same whirling/swishing sound. Mine had 281k at the time though.
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  #6  
Old 08-20-2010, 09:15 AM
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Ya. Odometer works. I figured I could rebuild it since I have already done an engine and a trans on a Ford. But it some cases I know rebuilding is just not worth it, thats what I sorta meant. But if you already doubt my skill maybe I will just toss this thing on CL and call it a day.
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  #7  
Old 08-20-2010, 09:56 AM
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It is common mine failed on my 92 at 100K, slow to engage and then bang. It is something about the front clutch, MB does not repair they just replace $4k, no converter, 2yr 24k warranty. You could save by having a "good" shop rebuild it for less money. They have to loosen the exhaust and they replaced the trans lines and motor mount.
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  #8  
Old 08-20-2010, 01:36 PM
david s poole
 
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just pulled my trans out of my 91 420sel.same problem only mine was so bad that in order to make car move in reverse you needed someone to give a little push.anyway,it was exactly what i suspected-----no meat left on the reverse clutches.apparently my timing was perfect as no marks on the steel plates either.3rd gear drum clutches still had part numbers on the surface and were good.there were no issues with forward speeds so replaced reverse and drum and band,put back front pump and it drives fine with instant reverse engagement.while trans was out i found my pesky oil leak at the rear main seal so threw a new one in.
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2010, 01:47 PM
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Yeah, welcome to the 722 tranny. The reverse clutch plates just wear out sooner, due maybe to the super low gearing/torque load as they drop into gear.
I was one of the successful ones, I guess. I caught the problem early, when it just got a bit slow going into reverse. I ordered up a kit, dropped the tranny, went into the front, and the first thing looking at me were the worn out reverse plates. Pretty easy to get to and replace. I just didn't see the need for the extra risk of taking everything else apart, since it all looked and worked great, and my labor was free if I needed to go back in later.
(I actually did go ahead and replace the 2nd gear plates also, and had a little issue with them shifting different. Wish I had left them alone, they looked new).
But, as stated above, If you don't really love crawling under cars as a hobby, and don't have plenty of tools, jacks, time, and some experience in trannys, then probably buying a rebuilt is the best bet. As I said, the reverse plates are quick and easy when you get the tranny on the bench, but I wouldn't do just that if I was paying a shop to do all the R&R labor.

DG
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2010, 03:10 PM
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So R&R at maybe 5 hours for this? A ford trans I know, a benz trans I have never been in. I would LOVE to do the work myself really. I bought the car with the intent of it being a "hobby". Just did not expect front sway bar failure AND the reverse to be problems in the first 5 days of ownership! lol

You comments make me confident that this may be easier to take then the Ford ones. I will crawl under and see what has to be done. Fun fun!
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  #11  
Old 08-20-2010, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LandYaghtLover View Post
So R&R at maybe 5 hours for this? A ford trans I know, a benz trans I have never been in. I would LOVE to do the work myself really. I bought the car with the intent of it being a "hobby". Just did not expect front sway bar failure AND the reverse to be problems in the first 5 days of ownership! lol

You comments make me confident that this may be easier to take then the Ford ones. I will crawl under and see what has to be done. Fun fun!


Well it is a 20 year old car with no records, expect anything.

PM me with your email address and I will send you the PDF file for the 722 transmission
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #12  
Old 05-11-2011, 05:44 PM
10mm MW
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S-Class Guru View Post
Yeah, welcome to the 722 tranny. The reverse clutch plates just wear out sooner, due maybe to the super low gearing/torque load as they drop into gear.
I was one of the successful ones, I guess. I caught the problem early, when it just got a bit slow going into reverse. I ordered up a kit, dropped the tranny, went into the front, and the first thing looking at me were the worn out reverse plates. Pretty easy to get to and replace. I just didn't see the need for the extra risk of taking everything else apart, since it all looked and worked great, and my labor was free if I needed to go back in later.
(I actually did go ahead and replace the 2nd gear plates also, and had a little issue with them shifting different. Wish I had left them alone, they looked new).
But, as stated above, If you don't really love crawling under cars as a hobby, and don't have plenty of tools, jacks, time, and some experience in trannys, then probably buying a rebuilt is the best bet. As I said, the reverse plates are quick and easy when you get the tranny on the bench, but I wouldn't do just that if I was paying a shop to do all the R&R labor.

DG
Anyone feel free to answer.

I am going to have to go into my 420sel trans to do the B3. I really don’t want to buy a "rebuild kit" when I only want the B3 clutch and piston seals.

Can anyone recommend a source to get the B3 clutch components?

Thanks
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  #13  
Old 05-13-2011, 11:32 AM
david s poole
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
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dealership will have those parts and are only moderately expensive.but you will get oem clutch plates which can be an issue.
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European Performance
Dallas, TX
4696880422

"Fortune favors the prepared mind"
1987 Mercedes Benz 420SEL
1988 Mercedes Benz 300TE (With new evaporator)
2000 Mercedes Benz C280
http://www.w108.org/gallery/albums/A...1159.thumb.jpg
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  #14  
Old 05-13-2011, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by david s poole View Post
dealership will have those parts and are only moderately expensive.but you will get oem clutch plates which can be an issue.
Searching I found a post with the B3 piston seal kit part number for the 722.4, # 201 270 48 01

I also found a couple suppliers on line where I can get the disks for about $7.00 ea.

A friend of mine has an air conditioned shop with a hoist, so when he has an opening, I will take a couple days and do it.

I almost have a thought of putting together a B3 kit.

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