Using NKGs and whatever the specs called for on the gap....can't remember off the top of my head. However, after richening the Lambda yesterday, the car started fine every time today, drove no problem, and idled almost perfectly with no hesitation on take off. However, I'm sure I have the Air/Mixture screwed up now to where it won't pass smog but it ran good today.

Guys...just an update on this thread. For the last two days I've been able to get my car running as good as it ever has ('91 300E 185K miles) . I put cheap copper plugs from Auto Zone in (after I tried Bosch Irridium +2s that fouled right up and killed the engine and left me stranded) and adjusted the Lambda CCW to until it purrrred. Now, it accelerates on que, has solid power, and idles like it's off. I need some new suspension parts, fuel accumulator, and a few other things (cosmetics) but I feel like I could get this thing close to how it use to feel when new (well, I'd need new seats too but gonna try padding them up). Anyone else out there get to where I'm at with this car that ran bad and now feels pretty good? Hope this lasts for a while. I need it to.

sptt, it's possible the new ignition wires are causing problems. Spray a light mist of water on them at night to check for any electrical leakage.

Did you replace the distributor cap O-ring seal? If not, moisture could be getting inside the cap and causing problems.

Only use spark plugs with a copper electrode in the 103 engine. Platinum or Irridium spark plugs are No-No's.

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Fred Hoelzle

There was an interesting article in the current MBCA Star about misses in the M103.

It was caused by the lower insulator plate in the distributor.
Carbon tracks on the insulator face caused the misses...

Replacing the insulator cured all..

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http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...c/GOWIDE-1.jpg
1971 280SL ROADSTER
1988 300CE TWIN TURBO WIDEBODY
1994 E320 CABRIOLET
1999 C43 AMG
2005 G55K AMG
2008 CLK63 AMG BLACK SERIES

Thanks for all of the advice guys. I really appreciate it. Day 2 and it runs and idles perfectly. Idle on the way home in stop and go traffic scared me. I thought the engine quit because I couldn't feel anything but it was idling at around 650 RPM at 85-90 degrees celsius and quiet as a cat. But, of course, the SRS light (out of nowhere) had to keep reminding me this was a 20 year old car and still has its issues

I often wonder how grand it would have been to drive a "brand new" W126. I will never know... I was only 15 when the last W126 was made and I obviously could not afford one.

The smell of the interior in my '85 SL is one of my oldest memories. My grandmother bought it new. Its very comforting to just sit in it.

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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k
1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k
1980 240D Stick China 188k
2001 CLK55 AMG 101k
2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!!

It was fantastic ! Not mine but my Dad's and I was able to go to the dealership with him when he picked it up. I was 25? and he let me drive it alone. It rode and drove like nothing I had ever driven including the Benz's from the shop I worked at. That same car is now in my garage and slowly being driven and brought back to spec ( 200,100. Miles)

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92 500E Silver 66k
82 Porsche 911SC 84K
68 Cadillac ( Gone Now )
03 Suburban Z71 200K
85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad )

The idle is completely dependent on the ignition components and vacuum/air tubes and lines. Not too long ago my 300E which runs perfectly 99% of the time, developed a bad idle miss/eratic idle. I took off the air cleaner, did a thorough inspection and found the 1-year old idle air valve supply hose to be split in two places! I removed it, cleaned it up, and covered it in a tight triple-layer of electrical tape, re-installed, perfect idle ever since. Eventually I will replace the hose, but it has been fine so far!

On mine to get a perfect idle and throttle response I replaced:

-Injectors and insulators
-Valve stem seals
-All vacuum lines and hoses on the engine
-Distributor rotor/cap/wires
-All spark plugs with the proper non-resistor dealer Bosch plugs
-Fuel filter
-Fuel accumulator
-Engine temp sensor
-Air intake temp sensor
-Thermostat (old one was stuck open)
-OVP relay
-Adjusted flapper for air intake assembly as it was binding
-Swapped MAS module
-All fuses

I also run a bottle of Redline Complete fuel system cleaner through it every now and then.

I think thats about all.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Well...I'm very sorry to hear about you being jobless. I do have a job after being laid off twice in 6 months!!! And, the job is so stressful (due to economy and cutbacks) that not having a job is just a step below it! My health is still suffering and I work 14 hours per day minimum. Not having a job, health insurance, and living in So. Cal. O.C. is as close to being a homeless candidate as possible. This economy is getting uglier as well. Anyway...sorry, but I feel for you and anyone who needs a job and can't get one. I'm lucky.
Back to the car....I can't imagine how good it would run if I replaced all of those parts! I did removed the IACV and found a cracked hose at the end coming from the fuel distributor body and used a hose clamp to tighten it to the valve. I couldn't fine the replacement to order online? I also need a new hose piece that goes from the top of the air housing to the valve cover. Can't find that either. Anyone know where to look?

I can get you the Elaplast hose (Idle Air to Intake Manifold with hole for Cold Start Injector) for $15 (retail $22) and the Meyle hose (Idle Air to under Fuel Dist for $10 (retail $16.50). $6 shipping

Can anyone who has only seen a year of life before splits or cracks from their replacement hoses tell me who manufactured them?

p.s. No way to replace the Idle Air to Manifold hose without pulling the fuel dist. assembly and the cold start injector.

I was wondering about that. It just looks very difficult to do as tight as those hoses go on down there. For now, my car is idling really good at all times, in all temparature ranges. I will probably just get the hoses from MB Dealer since the aftermarket ones are cracking and it looks to be a pain to replace. Thanks!

I did my idle air hoses last year... it was quite an easy job. But, if I do it again soon- I'll pull the whole injection head off the car and replace all the rubber parts.
For mine, I use to squeek through emission testing until I replaced the temp sensor on the head for the FI system. It leaned things out a bit.

86' model, 130,000 miles.

MBUSA now sells the Beru plugs but my dealer still had the non-resistor Bosch instock.

i got my 1989 300E about 3 years ago (my first car ever) and it was in mint condition! it ran like a brand new car, clean inside & out and it still is! only problem ive had with it is with the sparkplug cables which i changed about 6 months ago & an electric problem that comes & goes... no one can find the problem but i think i found it its some cable underneath the dash on the drivers side. other than that the car has ran perfectly! dont know how many miles it has since the mile thingy doesn't work. when i got it it had 114k and it still does! hahaha great car! still driving my first car and will be driving until it gives out on me...

SRS light coming on could be a bad OVP relay. Poor conductivity due to worn switch contacts in the relay could cause a lack of power to the SRS control module.