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#1
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Is it common to have zero pressure in a W126 a/c system with a leak?
Hello: I hooked up the hoses of my a/c recovery/recharge unit to my 1990 300SE and the gauges show zero pressure. So, unless there's something wrong with my a/c service unit, there's no gas in my car's a/c system. Is it common for it all to leak out? I have a bad pressure sensor switch that I'm going to replace along with the drier and the auxiliary fan switch. Would a bad pressure sensor switch normally allow ALL of the gas to leak out of the system?
Thank you. |
#2
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I had a set of gauges where the "open" and "close" labels on the valves where backwards. Harbor Freight of course.
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#3
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Well, this is an actual a/c recovery/recharge unit this is supposed to be fully automatic, whatever that means. I opened the valves on the recovery tank and the hoses and there was no change, just zero readings on both gauges.
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#4
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Franc, sure it's possible to have Zero pressure. All leaks will eventually result in that if given long enough.
However, since you have retrofit connectors, they may just not be interfacing properly with your machine, and depressing the valve core pin properly. A quick check is to just momentarily press one of the valve pins on the car and see if you have any pressure on the system. If you have any freon at all, you should have about 90 psi at an ambient temp of 80 degrees F on a non-running system. That should be eassy to tetect with a quick punch on the valve core. I take it you found that sneaky little high side port. DG |
#5
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Quote:
I just depressed both of the valve pins as you suggested and there's no pressure there. Not even a hiss. I guess I have to go to the next step now. I haven't taken the parts out that I want to change yet. I'm following the manual. I think I have to pull a vacuum next. Thank you. |
#6
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Franco, yeah, I sent you a personal msg about the high-side fitting location.
Hope you got it, didn't want you to think I forgot you. Seems like the time to do a vacuum check. I have a feeling you'll not hold vacuum well. Next step would be to get a can of 134 with UV dye in it, and shoot it into the system and see what creeps out. I'm doing just such a test on my other car right now. You can get a little UV flashlight on ebay for under $10, works good. DG |
#7
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Quote:
I know it won't hold a vacuum right now because the pressure switch is bad. It's my understanding that I now need to change the parts then pull a vacuum on the system. I should hold the vacuum for 20 minutes or so then charge the system if it's OK. How does that sound? |
#8
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Good plan. But if it's been down to zero for awhile, the receiver/drier should probably be changed.
A good plan might be to screw in the new switch in the old drier, vacuum the system (and wait a pretty good while, 2 hours or more to be sure). Then if all looks good, pop the new drier on with the new switch, and do the vacuum again. After that charge her up, and add one can that has UV dye, just for furture leak detection ease. Remember to research on the qty of 134 required. I'm pretty sure your system needs 46 oz (but double check me on that, the wife has the car today) of R12 so it should require maybe 32 oz or so of 134?? DG |
#9
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Quote:
I will change the pressure switch and pull the vacuum as you suggested. If all goes well I'll change the drier and charge the system after that. I'm using an a/c recharge/recovery unit, so I have to figure out how to get the oil and the dye into the system via that unit. |
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