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#1
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FYI...Front Brake Pad Comparison 300E W124
I just wanted to post this for anyone wondering about front replacement brake pads. I just replaced my Jurid brand cermic pads with Akimo ceramic pads and I am very disappointed. The Jurid pads stopped the car on a dime as soon as I installed them! Lasted a good year and 12K. These pads (Akimo) were about $15 less and don't come with the electronic pad sensor wear wires and make the braking feel mushy. I have a W124 '91 300E. Hope this helps somebody. Get the Jurids! I will...soon!!!
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#2
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Did you go through the bedding proceedure to break them in? I know my Axxis deluxe ceramics on the BMW would not bite until I did that.
Just ordered some posi-quiet ceramics for the wagon. We'll see what happens....
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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on... |
#3
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I'll post back after I break them in a bit more and see if anything changes. The rotors are brand new as well. When I bought the car, the braking felt like it does now so I researched brake pads and got the Jurids. I thought I had bought the same ones this time...but I did not
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#4
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New Brake Pad (AND Rotors)1st time "Burn"
There is a specific procedure to be followed,you don't just "Wear them in".
And Once you've NOT followed the procedure you have to restore the pads (AND Rotors) surface to Like New before attempting to "Burn them in" properly. Some thought for your contemplation: http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/tech_support/tech_tips.download.-Par50rparsys-0012-downloadFile.html/06%29%20Brake%20Burn%20In.pdf http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=28456 And Break In: Brake pad break-in procedure. 1. After reaching medium speed engage brake pedal to slow car WITHOUT COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat four or five times. 2. At higher speeds engage brake pedal to slow car WITHOUT COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat five times. 3. At or near high speed engage brake pedal to slow car WITHOUT COMING TO A COMPLETE STOP. Release pedal quickly and do not drag brakes. Repeat three times. Allow a few seconds between brake engagements while car is in motion. 4. Do not hold brake pedal. Park car for approximately 20 minutes or until brake rotors are completely cool to the touch. 5. If during the above steps the brake pedal becomes soft or brake fade is noticed, park the car immediately for approximately 20 minutes. Do not hold brake pedal. Important reminders: * Do not attempt to use badly worn or damaged rotors with new brake pads. * Do not drag brakes while car is moving during break-in procedure. * Do not engage pedal while car is stopped at any time following the break-in procedure. * Upon completing the procedure, allow the brake system to completely cool before use. * Clean a used rotor surface with fine sand paper or steel wool, rinse with water, dry and install before bedding new pads. I've determined the only safe/sane way to carry out the procedures is late @ Night on an almost abandoned Interstate. The first time "50" catches you "Buning In" your new pads it'll help if you have a copy of the procedures to show Her/Him,otherwise likely to be subjected to the old Sobriety Test. The Crazy part of this whole Brake surface prep is that you've gotta get to your "Prep" area with as little brake use as possible (Can You Say ZERO.)
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 Last edited by compress ignite; 11-04-2010 at 12:50 AM. |
#5
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Did you change the brake fluid when you did it? If so, rebleed the brakes. You probably have air in there.
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2016 Monsoon Gray Audi Allroad - 21k 2008 Black Mercedes E350 4Matic Sport - 131k 2014 Jeep Wranger Unlimited Sahara - 62k 2003 Gray Mercedes ML350 - 122k |
#6
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My car is at the garage now getting Zimmerman rotors, Textar pads and brake bleed done.
I hope it brakes well... can't wait to get it back
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Smoke Silver 1994 E220 Coupe Automatic 0 kilometers 6 September 1994 100,635 kilometers - 6 September 2010 |
#7
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I have that exact setup on my 300E. Textars in front, PBR Organic in rear, Zimmerman rotors on all 4. Stops AMAZING. It has a vicious bite if you hit it. Extremely powerful brakes.
My W126 can stop almost as well, but the brakes are "softer" on application. It has zimmermans with PBR Ceramic pads....30k on them and very little rotor wear and almost no pad wear!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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How do you only get 12k out of a set of braked I generally get over 150,000 on a set of fronts on my Jetta
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E. |
#9
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Quote:
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1991 560 SEL / 185k miles 1992 750il / 17k miles - project car |
#10
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Quote:
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1987 300TD 147,000 miles- Palomino leather interior, 1995 facelift and body cladding, E350 wheels, Rebuilt suspension and sport springs, rebuilt turbo, New Monarch injection pump and injectors....and the list goes on and on... |
#11
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An internet search would suggest that there is no such thing as Akimo ceramic brake pads.
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#12
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WOW! You guys are really over-thinking this. A good pad installed properly will bed in quickly with little more than a few moderate applications at speed. My test drive loop is right at 2 miles, typicaly with traffic. I never have any problems bedding in new pads within that 2 miles.
The single most important thing to note about breaking in new pads is that hard aggressive braking before bed-in will overheat and glaze the rotors as well as crystalize the pads.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#13
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For the 12K mile question, I failed to explain that the rotors were worn down so I had to change the pads. Still had plenty of pad left. Sorry.
For the brake "break-in" procedure, I have never heard of that before. I am 44 years old and have had 12 cars and never had to do that. From my experience, it is usually the pad or rotor that makes the difference but I will heed that helpful advice in the future and I thank you for taking the time to give me that feedback. Also, brakes were a little better today after driving to and from work but still not "gripping" like the other pads and prior to my Jurids, there were some semi-metallic Dura-Lasts installed that required reverse thrusters and an airbrake to stop the car. So, I'm pretty sure it's the pad quality but I could be very wrong as I'm not an expert "brakesman" |
#14
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sptt, switch to Textar brake pads (in the Yellow Box). Your 300E brake system isn't designed to use ceramic or semi-metallic brake pads.
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Fred Hoelzle |
#15
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Boy is my memory bad!!! Akebono is the brake pad name! Not Akimo. Thank you for the correction. No wonder they suck! Duhhh...
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