Why do you need an alignment? Is it a drivability or a tire wear issue?

About $100, they also do a good job balancing tires.

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2016 Corvette Stingray 2LT
1969 280SE
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2007 Tiara 3200

FYI the alignment on the newer models (W202, W210 and I'd guess all successive models) isn't really very adjustable at all in the conventional sense.

In the later models geometry is fixed for caster and camber, there are small adjustments that can be made for both parameters but the adjustment process is actually to remove the lower control arm bolts and reinstall them with specialized offset bushings. Determining the number of bushings and their orientation is a non-trivial process that would be way beyond the skill set of the average chain store tech.

Fortunately most of the time the caster and camber values that were 'preset' at the factory at build time will hold for the life of the vehicle (assuming things like control arm bushings, ball joints, tie rods ect, ect are in good repair) It's been my experience that when dealing with these later model cars issues that are attributed to 'bad alignments' are more often caused by worn and/or broken steering or suspension components.

The exception to this is toe-in, it is still fully adjustable in the later cars and it is a critical parameter for good front end performance.

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My tires wear issue was all messed up on my fronts, uneven outer wear. Turns out I had suspension repairs done 4 months ago, now I'm buying new tires and don't want to screw them up so I assumed that I needed an alignment, maybe I don't after the suspension repairs. Maybe I should just see if they ride straight and balanced with the new tires before I pay $140 for an alignment specialist. The local dealer wants $250 for 4 wheel balancing.

I can get Michelin Primacy MXV4 for $149 + $11 Bal & Mount - $17.50 Michelin rebate card (today is the last day for the offer) = $142.50 plus 6% tax at my tire dealer or the Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS Pole Position for $132- $17.50 Costco instant rebate +$15 Bal & Mount = $129 plus 6% tax. Any thoughts which is a better deal. Costco has free lifetime rotation. Thanks.

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You can get your tires at Costco, but I would have it aligned at MB. All dealers have a "Road Force Machine" but MB also uses clip on weights. My 140 is vibration prone so I use the Hunter machine. My 210 is oerfectly happy with Costco balancing.

I buy my Michelins from Discount Tires, but get the balancing done at MB dealers.

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'06 E320 CDI
'17 Corvette Stingray Vert

I do the same, except not at MB dealers, although I might switch to that.

I'm going to have the next car I need aligned..done at a MB dealer.

Once I put new tires/wheels on my 201, if its still crappy, I'll have MB do it

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Edge,

If I understand you correctly, you have wear on the outer edge of both front tires. This is means it is toed in. This is the most common cause that requires alignment. For toe, most any shop can do it properly, but make SURE that you tell them to set it on ZERO! Many books will offer a wide tolerance for this spec. Toe can be set to some specifications that are published for some cars and be WAY away from zero. This will cause wear on the inner or outer edges.

$250 for balancing is HIGHWAY ROBBERY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A reputable shop should not charge more than $10 or $12 per wheel at the most. $140 for alignment is a high price, but not as RIDICULOUS as the quoted balance price.

If you are one to do such work yourself, toe can be very successfully set in the driveway. If you are interested in the home procedure for accurate toe setting, speak up and I will go through it for you. As far as balancing goes, you just need to find a reasonably priced source and MAKE SURE that they do a DYNAMIC balance with weights in both inner and outer planes. These cars will vibrate with a static balance which consists of weights on the inner plane only.

Hope this helps.

Yes, I am interested. I did have an outer wear problem but my suspension problems probably caused a lot of it. The front end has been fixed in August by my indy who told me I should get new tires and an alignment. Well I got the MXV4 on her today and it rides pretty well. Now I want to align it so I don't ruin the new tires. No way will I pay $250 to my dealer which is aptly described as highway robbery. If I can do it myself that would be great. Thanks.

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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold
83 300D Manganese Brown 109K
97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold
98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold
95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold
93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold
95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold
94 E320 White 127K, sold
85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold
84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold
99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease)
00 Honda S2000 Red (lease)
86 Mercedes 300E (sold)
84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold)

There are several good home methods, but I'll go over the one that I've used the most with great success:

On a relatively flat and level concrete floor raise each front wheel one at a time and suspend it safely off the ground far enough so that it can be rotated. Clamp a nail to a jack stand such that it can be held in solid position along the tire tread. Vise grips work nicely to clamp the nail.

With the point of the nail against the tire, rotate the tire one full turn to scribe a line around the circumference of the tire. You do this as opposed to measuring against the tread because the bead does not always seat uniformly.

Once both front tires are scribed, lower the car to the floor and push it forward or backward a distance of one tire revolution. This is to allow the camber to settle after the car has been raised.

Now with a reliable assistant holding the one inch mark accurately on the line at the front of a front tire get a careful measurement on the other side. Now do the same on the rear of the tires. The distance should be EXACTLY the same between the lines front and rear. Make the measurements at the same height front and rear as high up as you can go without obstruction.

Some old timers (I'm an old timer, but I've learned better) will tell you that you need to toe it in a 1/16" or so instead of equal distances (zero toe.) This is a hold over from the bias ply days and should not be done with radials.

To make the adjustments, loosen the locking nut(s) at the tie rod ends and turn the link to make the adjustment. Look at the threads and visualize what an adjustment in a particular direction will do to your setting. If the steering wheel is not straight after your adjustment, you can turn the links on each side equal amounts in the same direction to center the steering wheel without changing toe adjustment, but if you do, recheck toe after centering the steering wheel.

Hope this helps.