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#1
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W124 STILL SHAKES VIOLENTLY
Been at this since I bought it a year ago. 94 E320 w/140,000.
I am baffled, I can't seem to pinpoint the issue. When driving a Mercedes, the front end & steering wheel shouldn't shake violently while driving on the freeway. It's not constant, happens sometimes, front end shakes, steering wheel shakes, doesn't stop if I slow down or accelerate. Doesn't always, sometimes, it's like it doesn't even exist-Intermitent. Neither myself, or my tech shop can figure it out. - Brand new tires, put 10K miles on them, no unusal wear. - Wheels balanced multiple times. - Recent Alignment - although still not perfect, maybe 7 out of 10 - Wheels don't appear to be bent or have any kinks in them. - New Steering Dampner - Motor Mounts seem fine - Bushings,Idler Arms, Sway Bar, Tie Rods, Ball Joints, struts, springs, all check out, no need to replace. - Driveshaft checks out, flex discs look great, new center bearing, new trans mount. The car looks fantastic underneath, despite a few rust spots. Any suggestions??? Not, driving 100MPH on the freeway so boring... |
#2
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have you checked out the steering gear box ? i had a similar problem on my 1979 w123 280e.same thing on the freeway , got a new steering gear box and no more shaking hope this helps.
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#3
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I don't get it. I've driven beaters & seen the neglected mercedes, and never have I come across this mystery shaking. |
#4
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have you rotated the tires also to see if problem goes to the back of the car?
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1994 E320, 145,000 miles |
#5
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Whatbi didn't see yet is front wheel bearings adjusted or control arm bushings checked.
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Prost! |
#6
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Rotated tires during last week's oil change. Still no difference. |
#7
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I haven't checked wheel bearings. I wasn't aware a wheel bearing could cause this. Makes sense though. Will check it out later today and report back. |
#8
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start engine, leave in park
turn lock to lock slowly on tickover, repeat several times. if you can produce symptoms, stop turning steering and rev engine and see if noise changes repeat with front end on axle stands. you may have a steering gear / pump problem, or just shot engine mounts. |
#9
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check this
BAD TRACK ROD MOUNT(S) AND BUSHINGS!
spo123 |
#10
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could be, one side or the other rather than both. |
#11
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"BAD TRACK ROD MOUNT(S) AND BUSHINGS!
" That's interesting as a W124 doesn't have track rod bushings...! I'd pull a bolt and check the dampener for resistance. Any front suspension play can do... with the wheel brgs properly adjusted, new bushings and ball joints? Strange you listed those seperately as they are as the ball joints are welded on the lower control arms(which come with new bushings). What brand of control arms did you buy? Febi or MB or china made? Pulling on the wheel with the car on stands.. there should be no play. With the car running and in park. If you take the wheel and move it 3-4 inches back and forth quickly- kinda violently. Does it make any noise? Clicking or abnormal sounds.. My car has a vibration at 80-85 mph and I think it might be the box. The earlier cars have a TSB about possible steering box bolts becoming loose. They are stretch bolts(don't loosen them), but make sure they are tight by applying the FSM torque. used low mileage steering boxes are cheap- $100-125, plus you can re-seal them first for $20 in parts. V8 boxes seem to be more prone to leakage than L6's. Michael |
#12
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well, they do, depending on nomenclature, the control arm bushings are the ones in the triangular shaped piece that forms the lower pivot that carries the wheel and brake assembly, the track rod is what swings the wheel and brake assembly to turn the front wheels. Nearest to you and at the bottom of this pic just to the right of the brake rotor. |
#13
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To the OP, I'm thinking the evaluation of the LCA bushings, ball joints, or stuts is faulty. Have the LCA bushings ever been replaced? I'm a skeptical that 17 year old LCA bushings are good, regardless of the number of miles on the car. |
#14
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shaking...
i bought my 420sel (1987) 7 years ago and dealt with the same thing....ended up with doing the entire front end for about 1200...after i purchased all parts...so all rubber underneath is new now
also went wheel bearings and rotors..... did all the alignments and balancing...botom line is that with an older car you have to do the front end first and then go to the wheels.... lyle in texas |
#15
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"Bushings,Idler Arms, Sway Bar, Tie Rods, Ball Joints, struts, springs, all check out, no need to replace."
I think you need to re-check this area. I had a shimmy in my '95 E320. Changed the steering damper, checked wheel balance, tried other wheels/tires finally swapped in a set of new struts/ shock absorbers. That fixed it. |
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