Yeah, sounds like the tranny needs some DIY love. Please don't let the tranny scare you. Just keep it clean when you dig into it...use the right tools so you don't mess up the little bits and pieces. Its just a car part

With that level of slippage, you need to make sure your tranny fluid is clean (I know you just flushed it...drop some out and look at it in a glass jar...let it settle and check the bottom. It may be still dirty believe it or not.

Next step in my mind is going to find another car with a healthy trans. A rebuild can be expensive...and if you do one..it will take you ages...after about 3 or 4 you get the hang of it. But then you just open a tranny rebuild shop...so it doesn't make a lot of sense I had a long conversation with Roy about it and he was extremely helpful. You may want to just call him...he has forgotten more about this stuff then I will ever know.

Good luck.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Thayer:

I called Roy (great guy by the way) and he told me that it is a high probability that the B2 piston is failing and needs replaced, he said they sell many of these and it is a common part to fail. Right now it comes out of gear between 3 and 4 but in time he said I would loose all forward gear capability.

I'm going to get the B2 piston (and extra seals) and give it a shot.

I replaced the B2 piston and I still have the flare issue when shifting from 3 to 4. I disconnected the vacuum modulator and capped the line and I did not get the flare. I was able to adjust the modulator (turned clockwise all the way in) and it helps somewhat. I really don't know what else to try except check the B2 band adjustment. Mercedes dealer closest to me (1 hr away) wants $3K to replace the trans. thye are offering a 2 yr unlimited mileage warranty. No trans shops close to me have any experience with Mercedes trans. Also thought about checking the governor to make sure its functioning properly.

I did see this link, $1500 + 2 yr warranty. No experience with them but it sounds like a much better alternative than the dealer:
http://mercedesdismantlers.com/Mercedes%20Transmission%20Price%20List.htm

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Prost!

I like that dismantler site.

If it were my car (this is what I am doing) I would screw the modulator until I liked the other shifts, and lay off the fuel during that shift. Do that if the flare doesn't make it impossible to shift.

You know the rebuild will be there and will cost the same regardless of when you do it. Might as well suck the rest of the life out of this one before you go through purchasing another one.

__________________

77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Before you start throwing a lot of money at this problem, check for an exhaust leak. A loss of exhaust back pressure will also cause the delayed shifting behavior you describe.

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

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Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

I am confused by the bowden cable remarks.

Is the bowden cable the throttle cable? And if so, how is adjusting it relevant since, with the e320's electronic throttle, the cable is not even engaged unless flooring the accelerator on hard acceleration or when the electronic throttle is lost in limp mode?

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2008 E350 4matic / Black/Anthracite

------------------------------------
Gone but not Forgotten:
2001 E430 4matic, 206,xxx miles, Black/Charcoal
1995 E320, 252,xxx miles, Black/Grey
1989 260E, 223,00 miles, Black/Black

bowden cable tells the tranny when to shift. On his 94, there is a specific setting the Bowden cable should be. Look at it with a flash light, there is an arrow and a dash that you need to match up. that was factory though, and that was a long time ago.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

No, it is a seperate cable. The throttle cable comes down to the ETA from the top. The trans bowden cable heads toward the firewall and has a threaded adjuster to set tension.

Thayer:

I don't know where the arrow and dash is located that you are talking about concerning the Bowden cable. I have been adjusting the nut that is next to the bracket. Have any pictures or tell me where it is located?

I still have my flare issue and reading the Mitchell Transmission diagnostic pdf it says that a 3-4 flare can be caused by a damaged governor. Does anybody know if the governor can be removed with the transmission still in the car? Was wondering if I could access it if I removed the transmission rear support and let it drop down a few inches.